Green Hills, Grey Skies and the Gift of the Gab


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May 17th 2009
Published: May 17th 2009
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The Burren to Connemara

From Killarney, stopping in Doolin, Kinvarra, Clifden and Cleggan before arriving in Westport. Gorgeous coastline all the way!

Cliffs of MoherCliffs of MoherCliffs of Moher

From an unofficial path off Doolin
Craggy rock-strewn cliffs, rain and a good dose of Catholicism greeted Dad and I as we entered the Burren from the Ring of Kerry. We've continued our trek around the coast, heading slowly upwards from Killarney, stopping frequently to take panoramic photos and stain our teeth with endless pots of tea. Each day we've made ambitious plans to travel x hundred kilometers to the next big town, but we keep falling in love with small towns as we drive through them. From tiny musical Doolin - a loose agglomeration of pubs, shops and B&Bs next to the Cliffs of Moher - to the even smaller port of Cleggan - jumping off point for Inishbofin Island followed by the vast Atlantic - our last week has been characterized by long impromptu walks, seafood chowder (cheap and hearty, we've sampled the chowder in every town since Killarney), intimate musical sessions and chats about everything from Irish history to the economy with old men over pints of Guinness.

In every county Dad and I are discovering new and stunning scenery. The vertiginous Cliffs of Moher, the boggy marshlands of Connemara National Park, the flowery hills and forests of County Mayo, all have taken
Ripples on the SeaRipples on the SeaRipples on the Sea

A break in the waves from the Cliffs of Moher
our breath away. We can't seem to take enough pictures of the majestic views we've been getting, stopping sometimes three or four times to capture the same scene from different angles. Even in the rain, which has persisted for the last four days, the contrast of vibrant green and yellow hills and forests on slate gray sea and sky make the landscape photogenic.

The scenery alone has made an indelible mark on our memories; but this is only half of Ireland's charm. The effortless conversation and hospitality have also impressed us. They say you should kiss the Blarney Stone to get the "gift of the gab," but the Irish must be born with it. When they're done asking questions about Canada, they fill the air with tidbits of regional lore, self-effacing jokes, well-informed comments about the world. You would never find this kind of social atmosphere in a pub at home; and it's a good thing they have so much to say because our conversations usually run out of steam before the first pint is drunk. We're trying to learn as much friendliness as we can before we leave on Wednesday morning, which means another night of traditional music and drinking with the locals here in Westport. Slainte!




Additional photos below
Photos: 19, Displayed: 19


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Blue on the BeachBlue on the Beach
Blue on the Beach

Dad on the Beach heading north of the Burren
Chowder #1Chowder #1
Chowder #1

The first of many chowders (at Keogh's Restaurant in Kinvarra). This homemade brown bread was so good, we stole half a loaf from the bread basket!
Pub LifePub Life
Pub Life

The corner at Keogh's (Kinvarra)
The NEW Irish CiderThe NEW Irish Cider
The NEW Irish Cider

Bulmers Pear...think I'll stick with Guinness
The CatchThe Catch
The Catch

Dad and the lobster traps on Cleggan Pier, en route to Inishbofin Island
See Through ViewSee Through View
See Through View

View to the sea from St. Colman's Abbey Inishbofin Island
Cliffs of InishbofinCliffs of Inishbofin
Cliffs of Inishbofin

Off-road walking on the island
Hail MaryHail Mary
Hail Mary

Welcoming sailors from the lighthouse
Oliver's Bar, Restaurant and B&BOliver's Bar, Restaurant and B&B
Oliver's Bar, Restaurant and B&B

Our fave B&B in Ireland so far: cheap and friendly, with a true Irish breakfast - black and white sausage included. YUM!
Mountain ManMountain Man
Mountain Man

Dad on the Diamond Hill trail. Love the beret...
Dad, Em and a ViewDad, Em and a View
Dad, Em and a View

Diamond Hill trail (Connemara National Park)


18th May 2009

Ahhh Emilie this brought back fond memories for me! I visited Limerick last year, went to the Cliffs of Moher, Bunratty Castle etc. It was so lovely! I am glad you are loving it so much :)) I love Ireland!
18th May 2009

Like that restaurant....
in Kinvarra. You maybe know, or not, that my maiden name is McKeogh?? Same spelling and all, since most have a "U" - though my father's family is more from Cork, but still a fun coincidence. My dad saw Ireland once, a similar trip to yours, and he saw it while still on the ball - the ponies of Connamarra impressed him - and the miles of rock fences! Testmony to generations of patient hard work - safe travels xoxox V
18th May 2009

Wow - beautiful photos
Hi Emilie As always I enjoy your stories and the photos are unbelievable!! Believe it or not but here in Canmore we had beautiful weather on Sat and Sun of the long weekend but it's now Monday and we're experiencing flurries - YUCK!! Anyway take care and enjoy all of the green scenery! Kelly H xo
7th August 2009

Bofin
I will be back on Bofin in a few weeks. San Francisco to Eire. One of lifes great journey's. Bofin is god's country. My Grandmother was born and raised on the isle

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