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Published: January 24th 2006
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Happy Girl
She´s clearly posed for a few too many photos today I received a message from a blog reader saying that I had become the "Backpacking Bridget Jones" in her mind. So this is what my life has come to eh? Is it because I'm still searching for Mr. Right? Well, I know there are a lot of us out there...at least I'm not stuck watching The Dating Game on t.v. Havn't found it on Peruvian telly anyways!
I arrived in Lima in the middle of the night after a rather exhausting indirect route from Brazil. Not quite feeling like paying for a taxi to do a few too many circles finding accommodation, I opted for a few hours kip on the airport floor. Yes it was uncomfortable and a bit cold, but it saved me a bit of dosh not having to pay for a bunk bed for the night, and it would be a bit safer than the notorious streets of Lima. When I did manage to make my way out to the hostel in Miraflores in the morning, I confirmed I had made the right decision for solo me as 3 other hostellers had been mugged individually just a few blocks away within the last 24 hours.
Coco Leaf Tea
The natural and best relief for the altitude headaches. Much better than chewing on the leaves too. So no, Lima didn´t rise up the ladder as my favourite city, and I booked a flight to Cusco for the next morning. And even better yet, I hooked up with German Michael going the same route.
We arrived in Cusco airport to sounds of pipe music across the baggage claim area. Cusco is certainly a town catering for tourists and the 350 000 residents all seemed to work within the industry. The number of hostels to choose from was overwhelming but we finally chose the Rosalba up on the hill. The taxi took us as close to the front door as his little car would fit along the narrow streets. The first sight of the construction was a slight turn off, but the bed was a major attraction. Altitude isn´t something I´ve had to deal with in any of the other countries visited on my travels, so my groggy head was a new experience. After a little catnap, we strolled across some of the cobble stoned streets and sampled a coffee and peeked in the tourist shops. I made a list in my head of all the goods that I might benefit from purchasing. The temperature is
Me at Puca Pucara
I kind of missed capturing the red brick of the ruins, although the surrounding green hills are nice! a little cooler than I have been encountering, so a few pairs of alpaca socks and gloves might come in handy. And after a bit of bargaining, paying $1.50 won´t break my bank.
Whilst acclimatizing, I spent a few days taking in the museums and galleries around town. People living in Cusco seem to have a great deal of pride in their heritage, and I was quickly told off if my hand trailed some of the surviving outdoor Inca walls. Bright colours jump out at every corner in many of the knitted sweaters and woven belts. Even in the sky, the town flag displays the sacred rainbow of the Cuzquenans forebears. A slight misunderstanding has taken place in recent years as the flag has been confused with that of the International Gay Pride symbol. I don´t think everybody has caught on yet! The architecture around town was such a joy to gaze up at as well. Carved balconies line the streets and squares front the 26 churches around town. The only annoyance I was soon faced with were the number of children selling postcards, cigarettes and finger puppets-don´t they have school to go to??
I decided
Church at night
Although there are 26 churches to look at along the streets in Cusco, I thought this one was the most stunning from Plaze de Armas to change hostels after a couple of days. Although the view was nice, I thought being in the Plaza de Armas might be more interesting. Hhmmmpphh. Interesting might not be the best way to define the protests over loudspeakers during the day, and the pounding of club music in the night. It might not have been the best change of accommodation, but I still loved the location! I then booked myself on a day trip around the Sacred Valley, it´s time to see some ruins!
The first market stop had the same colours as seen on the streets of Cusco, but with a few more kids posing with llamas for a money making photo. I bought only a couple of nicknacks before we moved onto yet another market in the town of Pisac, 30 km. northeast of Cusco. Rising above all of the stalls of bargaining tourists were the first of the ruins we were to explore that day. We climbed across the terraces and studied the ceremonial center alongside the Inca Citadel. As in Egypt and Jordan I learned of the hundreds of Inca tombs scattered in the hills behind. It was breathtaking, of what breath I
The Airport Welcoming Commitee
Peru is famed for their pipe music, tourists begin hearing it at Cusco airport had left after the climb up.
Lunch was a feast of so many different varieties of corn, all grown within the Sacred Valley. The kernels were so big it looked slighty as if they had been nourished with steroids, filling the stomach all the more quickly. We continued the tour through the green valleys, and came to a stop at Ollantaytambo. More terraces, an Inca Fortress at the top, and streets in the town that are still based on 13th century city planning. The legends that surround the carved faces and granary on the hill behind were very intriguing. The day continued with more churches and more markets until I could no longer keep my eyes open and I crawled into bed. With earplugs of course!
My final exploration in the Cusco area were to ruins only 8km. away. Tambo Machay was a ceremonial bath that still channels spring water, Puca Pucara stones caught the light and shone red all around. The most joyous exploration however was at Qenko and the Moon Temple as I had the good fortune of meeting up with a local family. I enjoyed drinking some chicha (fermented corn beer) with some
Cusco
The Plaza De Armas, as repeated in every South American town, surrounded by the roofs and hills of Cusco other home cooked delicacies with Ambrosia, Marisol, Angel and Felix. English may not have been at the tip of the tongue, but they showed me the positive and negative areas of the moon temple; deep inside a rock shone just a few rays of light highlighting carvings of pumas, anacondas and condors. It was a spooky surprise! And then when we walked over to Qenko I was shown the area for sacrificing llamas and pouring chicha for the Gods. Spending time with this family was one of the most rewarding experiences in Peru yet.
Sacsayhuaman was the largest of the local sights, said to be the head of the Puma (Cusco is the entire body). The rocks used for the walls weighed nearly 4 tons, yet were manoevered into place to perfection. It was hard to comprehend the amount of history in this site, as only 20% of the original structure is still visible. At the end I was entertained by nearby llamas mingling amongst a game of football. Although, mingling is too kind a word for what they were getting up to!
So there´s Cusco! I am now off for 4 days of treking along
The Long Road Down...
...and painful road back up to the hostel! Walking the steps up and down the streets of Cusco is a challenge in the beginning the Inca Trail, maybe I´ll find my Marc Darcy there, maybe I´ll just get into shape with the excitement on the trails! Then I have a couple more days in Cusco before returning to Lima and on to Mexico.
Hope everybody is still starting this New Year with many smiles!!
Fiona
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Don
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I knew u would like the hosstel :-)