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Published: October 31st 2007
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Oh Where For Art Thou Juliet?
Looking lost in thought while gazing towards the mountains that separate Bhutan and Tibet. Two days after arriving in the beautifully isolated and majestic Buddhist Kingdom of Bhutan, I set out on what would be my final Himalayan trekking adventure of 2007. What I didn’t know when I started the 14-day Laya - Ghasa Hot Springs trek was that it would turn out to be most challenging and difficult journey of all. Not difficult in terms of the distance we covered, passes crossed, or general altitude during the trek, but difficult in terms of one word: cold. Mid-October to early-December offers some of the most stunning views in the Himalayas because the summer monsoon weather is passed and the skies are usually crystal clear. But no cloud cover also equals no earthly insulation from the frigid temperatures that are common in high elevations in these mountains. So while during the day we had beautiful sunshine and clear skies (causing some major nose-peeling), when the sun set, it was like stepping into an ice-box. On 7 of the 14 nights we camped at over 13,000ft, the highest being well over 14,000ft. ON all of those miserable evenings, my mini-thermometer registered temperatures between 40 degrees Fahrenheit and as low as 10 degrees. One morning I woke up
Leaving Koina
Ancient forests and stunning mountains, who doesn't love Bhutan? to 6 inches of fresh on the ground and ice that had frozen the zipper of my tent shut. Even with all the various down-filled clothing items I possess, I still froze my ass off on at least half the nights on the trek. There were several occasions where I was tempted to run into the caves nearby our campsites, build a fire and never come out. Unfortunately (but from an environmental standpoint, fortunately) campfires are forbidden during treks in Bhutan as we spend most our nights above the tree-line, where trees and shrubbery are very scarce. Some nights I took mental journeys to the crazy-hot places I visited in SE Asia and pretended I was on a hot beach sweating in the sun. While all my warm gear was at times adequate, it was by no means sufficient to keep me from shivering in the cold Himalayan wind. So that was the trade-off, I got killer views and clear skies during the day in some of the least visited parts of the Himalayas, but night where I literally thought I was going to freeze to death. On top of that, I still have blisters on the back of my
On Top of Sinche La
The final pass of the trek, 16,516ft. feet I acquired while trekking in Ladakh during July and August that have never healed. The endless walking over the past 4 months have left me feet looking like angry piranhas have chewed them to pieces. On one night I had what my Tibetan friends call a “loose stomach”, forcing me to crawl in and out of my tent all night long in sub-freezing temperatures. Not sweet….Luckily I travel with what looks like a small pharmacy, so the next day plenty of strong stomach medication cleared up that problem.
I should make a quick clarification, these are not complaints but rather me venting out my emotions from some incredibly frustrating nights. I wouldn’t have traded in this last trekking adventure in Bhutan for anything in the world. Nearly 78% of Bhutan is covered in forest, 90% of that being virgin or “old-growth”, so the quality of the environment here is as pristine as any place in the world. Because of the governments major protection measures, the wildlife in Northwestern Bhutan is fabulous and I came across huge families of yaks, blue sheep, mongooses, rare Himalaya griffons, Pailas and Golden eagles, blood pheasants, ravens, and other various creatures I can’t
Waiting for the Wind to Blow
Day hike near Laya, really makes my tall frame look quite insignificant next to these mountains. name. My cook spent 6 months at a Bhutanese cooking academy so the food was beyond spectacular, I played Frisbee with my 17 and 22 year old horsemen almost every day, and lots of cards with my 24 year old guide. We stayed in the villages of Laya and Ghasa for 3 nights, sleeping inside the homes of different Bhutanese families, giving me a chance to experience village life in Bhutan up close and personal. Every single person I’ve come across has been so delightful, warm, and generous that I’ve had a silly grin on my face ever since I arrived in the country. The whole trek was magical and such a beautiful way to finish my mountain journeys in the Himalaya. So that’s it, I’m finished. The most extensive and lengthy trekking season of my life has come to an end. For the sake of my feeling accomplished, I tallied up the total distance of all my trips in the past 4 months. Between the dates of July 18th and October 28th, I walked a combined total of 631miles (1009km) in the 3 countries of India, Nepal, and Bhutan. I can say with utmost certainty that this is a
Travel Motto in Bhutan
What a fantastic motto for a national park, perhaps for any sort of mountain-related travel. time of my life that I will never forget. Aside from some minor aches and pains, a stomach issue, and a few headaches, I never got a single injury or once suffered from altitude sickness. I’ve made it out unscathed and feeling healthier than ever.
Now I’ve got only a handful of days left to explore beautiful Bhutan and its magical culture and people. I am oh so looking forward to returning to Delhi to see friends that I miss and explore some other parts of that massive country that were too hot to visit when I was there before. I’ve got so many great memories of these majestic mountains, but yet so much to look forward to in the coming months, it’s safe to say that this is one of the greatest times of my life. I can only hope that my pictures and stories can do some justice in expressing the emotions that have overcome me while in the Himalayas.
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Paul D
non-member comment
Best yet
So I think that's the best blog yet. Quick question - how did you go about booking the trip - independently (and if so where / when did you book) or through an agent?