Everyone has different opinions on places in Rajasthan, but this is what I would personally recommend: Jaipur - people often say this is just a big noisy city and other parts of Rajasthan are better, but I liked it - it has amazing old architecture, and two forts - I unfortunately didn't get to see the Amber fort in the end (about 12km from Jaipur) but have heard it is really worth seeing and if you google images of it, it certainly looks amazing. Also the Tiger fort within Jaipur, particularly at sunset. And you get the muslim call to prayer echoing around Jaipur also, which is quite haunting and magical.
Jodhpur was really my favourite place in Rajasthan - the blue city as you'll see, and you get brilliant views from the fort; the fort itself is well worth a visit, it's a steep hike up there but worth it once you're there - try and catch sunset from there too. Jodhpur itself is very charming, the main market square is really interesting just to wander around. Also don't miss Jodhpur's famous makhiana lassis - there's a lassi shop just off the market square (it'll be in Lonely Planet) which just serves these lassis, and they're something else! Other street vendors do them too, but the lassi shop is the best for them.
Jaisalmer is the main camel safari town, from the moment you're there, you'll be hounded to book a camel safari, I never did one so can't comment, but the town itself is worth a visit just for the fort and especially the Jain temples, which are really beautiful.
Bikaner is also worth visiting, you can do camel safaris from here too, which may be a better option as it's much less touristy. Bikaner has a good fort, and you can also take a day trip to Deshnok from there to see the rat temple - look it up for more info! - you have to go barefoot in the temple amongst the rats, who are believed to be incarnations of descendants of a goddess, so it's meant to be auspicious if one runs over your feet ... there are lots of giggling school children there, but it's fun, not to be missed!
Pushkar in my opinion, I wouldn't have really missed much by not going - it has a beautiful lake and temple but is completely drowned out by tourism, was the most touristy town I came across in India. Which is a shame as it's meant to be one of India's holiest cities.
If you have time, try and make it up to Amritsar, in the Punjab, even just for a couple of days- you can get there on the train (or I think bus) from Bikaner, it'll take about 18 - 20 hours to get there, but if you can fit it in, really DO go - to my mind, the Golden Temple there was much more spectacular than the Taj Mahal, the feel and vibe around the temple complex is indescribable. There are plenty of places to stay around the temple area or you can even stay in the temple complex itself, they have a foreigners dorm and you just pay a donation. You can even get free meals there if you want. Just to wander around there for a day or so is a magical experience. Also from there you can take a trip late afternoon out to the Pakistan border at Attari (they have jeeps going out there every day), to watch the daily border-closing ceremony there, which is VERY entertaining. The soldiers prance around stamping and marching and crowds on either side cheer for their country. It's a great experience, really funny.
PS - the best thalis I had in India were in Rajasthan. Mmmm, thalis and lassis, you won't go hungry..... 😊
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