Oh ok. This travel blog stuff is great! Ok, so I live in Bermejo. Ok, correction, I live in a small community of 250 people, 15km from Bermejo. I can throw a rock from my patio and it lands in Argentina. B-ho (as I call it) IS the border of Arg and Bolivia. It is a dirty border city of 40.000 with a very caribean feel -- I love it! Bermejo can be a nice place to live, but most people would be much happier with the calmness, cleanliness, and food in Tarija city. Bermejo is 3.5 hours south by bus (20b's) or 2.5 in taxi (40b's)
Tarija is a very safe city...they say that "Tarija es tranquila, tanto asi que se aburre facilmente." It is a colonial, white city, but less so than Sucre (where I lived before). There are hardly tourists or gringos in Tarija. Steaks and wine are cheap! Tarijans are somewhat like Argentinians, although they would proudly never admit to it. The culture of Chaco, Tarija, and Santa Cruz are the most extroverted and "latin" of the country. Tarija also has a terrible case of machismo that is less prevalent in the north and west.
So, I pay 150b's for my two bedroom. I have a huge patio, a small plot of land, and a tiled bathroom....oh wait! I live in the middle of nowhere! Ha! That’s why my rent is so cheap.
As far as price goes, Tarija rent is relatively cheap, but it depends if you want an efficiency or a full apartment. My friend, Or, lived in the city center for two months. He had access to a shared kitchen and shared bathroom, with his own private, furnished room. He shared the place with two other foreigners. I don't know if he got a good or bad deal but he was paying 450b's a month, plus they split the electricity bill. If you just want a room for a bed, and you plan to go to the pensiones to eat, you can find a nice place for 150b's.
Is it safe for gringos? Which gringos? Politically, not in terms of security or safety, it is not a great place for Americans right now. In the last weeks there have been events that have led to the US Embassy evacuating any Americans who wanted a free trip home. With that said, I think it's all a little dance between proud politicians. All other gringos don’t even have to pay to enter the country! I am here and I feel very safe. I sadly lost my position as a Peace Corps Volunteer, and am now looking at having to return home only because my school loan payments will kick in soon. Bolivians have their annoying qualities (just like all peoples) but they are usually very pacific and friendly. Don’t be afraid of Bolivia...you’re more likely to get mugged or robbed in any city in the first world! Especially in the south and east, people love and often even idealize Americans/Europeans.
Road blockades? Always! They are not dangerous at all, simply annoying! Bolivians love to (peace) riot and road block! They feel that they aren’t listened to by their government, and so they cut off major highways or airports until the government turns an ear. Keep up with the political scene, but I am going back home tomorrow, from La Paz, on a 30-hour bus and I have no doubt that I will return tired and warmly-welcomed.
When I stay in Tarija, I like to stay at the Hostal Rosario or the Hostal Carmen, both found on the intersection of Ramón Rojas and Ingavi. Both cost around 40 bolivianos a night and the Carmen comes with a basic breakfast. Both have gas showers and clean beds. If you frequent the place, they will further discount.
Excuse me if my writing is sporadic, I have had a long day. If I am being totally honest, Tarija is not my favorite city in Bolivia. I adore Sucre and could totally live there for life! Having said that, most of the foreigners I meet, say the same thing about Tarija city. It is a small city that feels like a large town. Crime zero, routine and the 4-hour siesta reign. I hate to leave this part of the world; it is truly unique and off the map.
If there is anything else I can help with, just let me know. If you will be in Bolivia before Christmas, I would love to cook you a good meal and show you around.
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