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DAY 1 - The OFF ROAD Bikers
Two American's we meet who were OFF ROADING it and very keen to inform us so. One had rode from Amercia!! The car arrived nice and early and after a quick hand over we set out, pulling out of the hostel was when i made my first and thankfully, only mistake whilst driving on the opposite side of the road; Pulling into a roundabout the wrong way. With that out the way we picked up some maps, a tank of cheap petrol and set off into the distance.
We left Bariloche and continued in the Lake district region on thick wide open roads with mountains surrounding us, we were meet by breath taking lakes set amongst miniature forests made up of dozens of different shades of green. Awestruck by the shear beauty of it all we headed onwards to the small hippy town of El bolson.
Once out of El Bolson's main strip, the houses and population began to drop off and we headed out into the Patagonia desert. Massive open expansive of desert with hills seemingly miles away in the distance, winds tearing around uncontrollably as we speed along straight stretches of highway. I found the scenery breath taking, kjersti found it all quick sleepy and get some good naps in along the
way!
We stopped that night in a small desert town called Sarimento. After touring a series of strange and wonderful hotels we found one for the night and lay down to catch some sleep.
Day 2 Sarmiento - Rio Gallegos 908km We awoke a bit early and set out on the longest day of driving in the whole ten day, I am pretty sure this is the most I’ve ever driven in one day by myself. Thankfully i had my navigator alongside me to read the map and take much needed naps for the both of us.
Back out into the desert, we struck out into vast gas fields, with the massive pumps working in silence to create quite a eerie backdrop. Today was the first day we started to see some of the desert wildlife, catching glimpses of Desert deer, rabbits, flamingos, ostriches, foxes and i even had to swerve to miss a road crossing armadillo.
We headed east towards the cost, then had the pleasure of driving right along the coastline on never ending straight roads until we hit the town of Rio Gallegos, where we booked in a hostel for
the night and proceeded to pass out for the night!
Day 3 Rio Gallegos - El Calafate 309km Today was a relativity short day behind the wheel ad after a early start we arrived in El calafate in the early afternoon and checked into a nice hostel with a beautiful view of the lake and surrounding mountains. We were both feeling a bit worn out after the past two days so take it easy that afternoon and had a wonder around the town and surrounding area before retiring for the night.
Day 4 El Calafate - Perito Moreno Glacier - El Calafate - Gobernador Gregores 465km This was the day we had been looking forward to and one of the main reasons for the trip itself. We left our hostel early and arrived at the national park around 10am, heading out along the long windy roads until we got the visitors center at the glacier itself. We parked up, wrapped up and headed out onto the walkway in front and around glacier.
Its hard to put into words the sheer size and beauty of the thing. It was bigger than anything
DAY 1 - The Forest
Beautiful scenery and colours man made structure I had ever seen with a hundred different shades of blue and the noise it made when a piece fell off was similar to what i imagine a bomb going off to sound like. IT was a truly amazing sight and we were in awe of the whole thing. If we were to cut our road trip short now, it would have all been worth it just to get to this point.
Reluctantly we headed onward about midday, returning to El Calafate and then out into the desert and onto our first experience of unpaved roads. The whole car shook as we drove at 10km (abt 6mph!!) along the roads, massive boulders and stones made up the way for that day. At some put we were only covering 30-50km a hour but it was all part of the experience and we made it none the less.
We arrived a Gobernador Gregores in the evening and struggled to find a hotel as it was a Friday night and their was lots of construction work going on around the area. Thankfully we found quite a posh place and settled in for the night.
Day 5 Gobernador Gregores - Los Antiguos 402km
Today was our last day in Patagonia before we headed into Chile for the first time but to get there we had to deal with more unpaved roads on the legendary route 40. We wobbled and shook our way to Los Antiguos making it their by late afternoon.
A small two road strip of a town, we had a wonder around stopping at the tourist information center and then booking ourselves in a cozy little homestay hostel.
Day 6 Los Antiguos - Chile Chico - Villa Castillo 390km That morning we ate like kings, using up all our food so we didn't have to throw anything away when crossing the boarder. We jumped in the car and stopped at our first boarder crossing in Argentina. The whole thing was quite official with a scary big officer asking questions about were we where going, thankfully everything lighted up when he found out we were from Manchester and started talking about football.
We were waved off with a stamp in our passports and a smile then a quick drive over a river and onto the Chilean boarder. This
DAY 1 - The Driver
Don't annoy the driver!!! time it was a lot more official with a full car check, bags scanned and a lot more paperwork to fill in but all was well and we continued into the boarder town of Chile Chico, where we stopped to pick up some food and grab a few photos but the lake.
We then headed onward, onto what was one of my favorite parts of the trip; around Lake General Carrera. We came out into luscious greenery and wild west mountain ranges, even having to stop at one point to let a cowboy get past! We drove up and around mountain edges with a massive drop down to the crystal blue waters of the lake below. A truly unforgettable drive.
Unfortunately the roads weren’t that great and we could only drive up to 30k but the scenery made it all worth while. We stopped in a picturesque lake side town with only a few dozen houses, pulling up by a slowly sinking pier for lunch.
After some adventuring we continued on way, reaching our evenings final destination of the tiny desert town of Villa Castillo. Struggling to find somewhere to stay, i asked in a small local
shop only to have a one of the town residents offer us a place at his house.
A basic but cozy place, we shared a dinner with the owner and retired early ready for the next days antics.
Day 7 Villa Castillo - Coyhaique 92km We set off for a relativity quick couple of hours drive to Coyhaique the biggest Chilean town we had yet to visit. Along the way, we decided to break our no hitchhiker rule and picked up a couple of locals who looked like the could use the ride. Originally stopping to pick up a Mother and her young kid, we dropped them at their destination only find more locals jump in. There we all on a elderly variety and itt was great fun to listen to them banter and get along with each other.
After getting hostel sorted and a quick stop at the tourist information center, we spent the afternoon doing the tourist thing and wondered around the city. Seeing the sights and checking out the local area. We also attempted to check out a national park but for the first and thankfully only time, the car let
us down and just couldn't make it up the steep hill.
We retired with a few beers and sleep well.
Day 8 Coyhaique - Parque Nacional Queulat (Ventisquero Colgante) - Puywhuapi 260km We left very early today, as we were very keen to make it to the Parque Nacional Queulat, where there is only of the very rare hanging glaciers to be seen. Today was by far the hardest driving I had done but most definitely the most rewarding, we seemed to drive over every terrain possible. Starting off on paved roads, onto gravel, then into forest, up hills and alongside mountains and lakes. Midway through one of the thick forest areas and due to the heavy rain the roads became very slippery and at one point I didn't think we were going to make it but thankfully the car held out and we got to the park car at the beginning of the trail to the glacier.
We jumped out, grabbed our stuff and set out on a what was meant to be a 2hr trek to the viewpoint, it was quite tough going but we managed to make it there in 1.5
and it was worth every minute of it.
The pictures we took don't really do it justice. The glacier sat in-between two mountain tops and looked like sugar beinging sifted as the gigantic blocks of ice, broke down and fell into the waterfall below gradually turning into water. The sound they made when they fall was phenomenal, reverberating all around the mountains.
Unfortunately we couldn't stay as long as we wanted and had to head back to the car and back on road. The next town was only one hour away so we had plenty of time to get there before night fall. Unfortunately this was not meant to be!
Whilst driving along a road cut into the mountainside, we came across a road block due to a avalanche up ahead. The ever-resourceful Chileans had set up a car ferry and after a hours wait they proceeded to jam us on like sardines, getting 5 cars and a truck in a tiny car ferry!
We arrived late that night and checked into a trucker hostel, to tired not to even care about the plastic wrap windows.
Day 9 Puywhuapi - Futaleufu 190km DAY 1 - Desert Dear
Our first of many sightings Feeling refreshed after a good nights sleep; we set out for a short drive though the countryside to Futaleufu. The relativity short distance of 190km about a two-hour drive on normal roads turned out to be 5hrs due to the gravel road. Never the less, we made it there and it was a fun and interesting ride. Will cows to navigate on the roads and trucks to over take.
Futaleufu was a sleepy like countryside town and we tried are best to fit in, relaxing the afternoon away and checking into a little family run hospedaje with a nosey mum, very interested in all we were doing.
Day 10 Futaleufu - Bariloche 400km We left early, hitting the paved roads all the way to boarder. Both boarder crossings went quite smooth and we drop into Argentina, stopping at Trevelin for a short while to get our bearings and sum cheap petrol. With plenty of time left on our hands we headed back to EL bolson and had a picnic by the lake for lunch. Returning to Bariloche in the mid afternoon.
The Day after.... The car was picked up, quickly checked
over and surprisingly no charges where made! I am still waiting for something to show on my credit card though. The past ten days were a truly unforgettable experience, the sights we saw and experience we had will definitely stay with us until our old age. Most definitely one of the highlights of the trip so far!
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