Adventures on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca

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Floating islands... yes they do exist, and there are 40 of them in total, all bobbing about in Lake Titicaca on the Peruvian side. How? They’re made entirely from totora reeds. They pull up the roots, tie them all together to create like a huge raft, and then layer dried reeds on the top. Their houses are made from reeds, they use reeds to light their fires for food, they eat the reeds, and they make boats from the reeds. I was fascinated by the many uses they managed to get out of such a readily available plant!

We took a short day tour from the port in Puno, visiting two of these islands. We had apprehension about visiting them due to reading so much about the locals living on these tiny islands made of reeds, had lost their traditional ways and were now relying on tourism. What we experienced was quite the contrary though. When we arrived on the island we were given a talk about the islands, but for the most part of this talk though, I wasn’t really paying attention because I’d made an adorable Peruvian friend. A girl, no older than 6 sat herself next to me, dressed in beautiful traditional clothes and took my arm in her hands. She was happily playing away with my watch and my bracelets, moving them up and down my arm, whilst sweetly yet shyly smiling up at me. It was a beautiful moment, one that I’ve rarely encountered with the locals thus far. We couldn’t say a word to each other, not because my Spanish is awful, but because she doesn’t even speak Spanish, she was amyran speaking, but words were not needed, just a beautiful, yet simple moment between two strangers, worlds apart.

Yet another moment, which I would call bizarre rather than beautiful, was when one of the mamas of the island grabbed my hand after the tour, pulled me along into her bedroom and began to throw traditional clothes over me. There I was with a barely 5ft hefty Bolivian mama in her bedroom being dressed.... without even a chance of me being able to give my consent. I wore the long skirt, the cardigan and finally a hat... which was way too small for my head. I was then ushered out to have my photograph taken.... looking utterly ridiculous. Whilst this was occurring dad had managed to drop his glasses... into the reed flooring... nightmare. So there we were, both dressed like wallies, along with my Bolivian mama, all searching hopelessly in the reeds. She was so kind, so forward, once we’d found them she proceeded in landing a smacker on my dad’s cheek. I just couldn’t get over how intimate they were with us, I guess it is because they see tourists every day, but it was really nice to actually be able to interact with the locals here, even if it was without words.

We then rode off to Taquile which according to the books is less touristy than the uros islands, but for me it was the other way around. We were hassled none stop by children trying to sell us friendship bracelets or little woven llamas. Nonetheless, I wish we would have had more time there, as we only had around 2 hours to explore. We got away from the group and ventured uphill to get a good view of the lake and be nestled amongst the locals’ houses. I would strongly suggest staying here a night if possible if you come here, as you can stay in one of the locals houses, which I imagine would be a real experience. Unfortunately we didn’t have the time though as we were off to cross the border into Bolivia the very next day.

One mention about our hostel in Puno is definitely needed here. We stayed at a hostel named Phajsi Aruma, ran by Luciana, Peter and Jose, parents and son. They are truly incredible people who gave us the best stay we have had so far. It reminded me of a B&B in England. The family live on site, cook you a beautiful breakfast every morning, organise your tours, drive you everywhere and sit with you and get to know you. I really felt at home. I know many hostals have a living area and kitchen for guests to share, but it never really feels like your own living room or your own kitchen, you always feel like a stranger. That was not the case here; I felt really comfortable and looked after. I was quite sad to leave. They really have opened up their home and lives to tourists much more than any other hostel I’ve come across yet. If you’re ever in Puno, definitely come here!

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Photos

They use soles of already recycled sandals as gate hinges
The shoes were recycled from tyres!