Lima

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GALAPAGOS BACK TO ECUADOR

After our visit to Galapagos, we were to meet the Crystal Serenity at Lima in Peru, the next country south of Ecuador. But first we had to detour back through Ecuador to get there. This was a long trip, beginning with the obligatory boat and plane trips from Galapagos to the Ecuador mainland. The scoop among our group was that Ecuador is willing to donate the Galapagos Islands for research and conservation, but any air travel to and from the Galapagos Islands must first pass through the airport at Guayaquil on the Ecuador mainland, where many tourist dollars are collected from Galapagos-bound tourists. From Guayaquil we were finally permitted to take another flight to Lima on the Peruvian coast, where our ship awaited us at the port of Callao, 45 minutes away by bus. The journey took an entire day.

LIMA

The next day we took a short tour of Lima, the capital of Peru and its only large city, with 8 million inhabitants - about a third of the nation’s population. The European presence in Lima goes back to 1535, when the conquistador Pizarro founded it as the “City of Kings.” It became the center of Spanish expansion and domination of South America. Today, Lima’s historic downtown district is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Dick managed to get a few pictures of the impressive old buildings we saw. The oldest were the churches, said to have rivaled those in Spain when they were built. Lima had many wealthy families who built palatial residences and gardens.

I had not realized the Spanish influence in Peru went back so far in history until our guide remarked that one reason the Peruvians finally revolted against the Spanish was their memories of the Spanish Inquisition inflicted on them in the 16th century. He said they turned for help to the French, who helped them gain independence and left a legacy of lovely old French architecture in the downtown squares and boulevards. Unfortunately west coast style earthquakes have wreaked havoc on the city over the centuries, but the citizens have done a great job of restoring many old buildings. There were also many new highrises and beautiful residential districts. However, much of the city was typical third world shanties and ramshackle apartment buildings.

From Lima our ship cruised south overnight to the isolated Peruvian port of General San Martin, which turned out to be a rather forgettable stop in country so arid and dry that not a blade of grass nor a cactus grew, except along a middling size river that was once the center of an Aztec culture. Mostly I remember Dick getting dizzy as we walked around among the scanty sunbaked ruins under a blistering sun. This turned out to be his first sign of a nasty bout with stomach flu. The ship’s doctor promptly quarantined both of us for three days, as over a dozen other people had brought the same bug back to the ship after traveling in Peru. So we had a quiet three days, with all meals brought to our room while Dick mostly slept and recuperated with the help of antibiotics. He’s fine now. Thank goodness the bug never got to me.

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Photos

Lima Plaza with Fountain
Like most Lima villages and cities, Lima had its major Plaza (square) as well as several others in the downtown area. With their flowers, fountains and statues, they were an open gracious setting for the lovely old buildings. Many were painted yellow in honor of the Pope's two visits to Peru.

Municipal Builiding
One of many municipal buildings around the main plaza in Lima.

French Influence
Balconies on buildings show the old French style that influenced architecture in both downtown Lima and prosperous residential districts.

Cathedral in Downtown Lima
Earthquakes have destroyed the original building, but the restoration was definitely impressive. The inside was even more impressive, with many gilded statues and lavishly appointed small chapels donated by wealthy families over the centuries. The lighting was too dim for pictures, and flashes were not allowed.

Monastery Courtyard
The Spanish style was beautifully illustrated in this open gallery on the top floor of a large marble-clad monastery, now the home of a group of nuns.

Cathedral Entry
The cathedral of course had huge wooden doors opening into an ornate vestibule, but this was for special occasions only. Tourists and most other visitors entered through this side entry, which was obivously very old but not as impressive. Tiles on the wall and floor were made by craftsmen brought over from Spain.

Tour Guide
Our voluble Peruvian tour guide, who talked with his hands as well as his lips. Tucked under his arm is the blue placard he held aloft to keep his flock together on the busy downtown streets of Lima. Our Crystal ship guide brought up the rear to make sure no stragglers got lost.

Downtown Lima
A street scene in the main plaza of Lima. Most of the buildings were very old but very well maintained. It was evidently a prestiguous place for a business address, with many banks and corporate offices.

Lima Street Scene
A Peruvian woman crosses the street under the watchful eye of the local police, who were much in evidence in downtown Peru.

Riot Police
Lima is a volatile city, with heated local elections that were much in evidence in posters and grafitti on the sides of buildings (but only in poorer sections, not in the ritzy downtown areas). All was quiet the day we were there, but the police were evidently ready for action.

Street Scene
Foot traffic on the back side of the main plaza, in a less presigious area.

Comments

[Anne Shaver]

Hi Mary and Dick: I am enjoying your trip. I wish that I could be there with you to enjoy all of these new experiences. I love to travel to other countries. Keep safe.