Welcome to Peru

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Thursday 9th November - Punta Sal

Finally a free day at Punta Sal. We camped overnight on the beach which was
pretty cool. We're awake early as the sun is so hot that we´re starting to
cook in the tent. So we decide to have an early morning dip in the sea, this
is the life. A bit of relaxation at last (except we're only here a day!).

Such a hassle but we have to pop into town to get some money and go souvenir
shopping (as usual we don't buy anything except a bat and ball to play on
the beach).

In the afternoon we have a rather pathetic game of rounders, which I
particularly enjoy as every time Dave hits the ball it goes into the sea and
Vicky has to do her Baywatch impression to try and retrieve the ball (she looks a big stupid and more like a dog playing fetch than Pamela Andersen)

We walk along the beach for sunset and Bambino and I see a whale in the
distance.

Later on we have a campfire (and a slightly drunken singalong) and watch
green phosphorescent algae crashing in the waves.

Not a bad start to Peru.

Friday 10th November - Huan Chaco

Today we drive to Huan Chaco. On the way we stop at the Sipan museum. We are
told it is one of the top 8 museums in the entire world so we have pretty
high expectations. Its not bad, with lots of artefact's from the Moche
period. The ceramics and gold items are over 1500 years old and well
preserved. Its actually an interesting museum but the best bit is the show
at the end. We´re treated to moving mannequins dressed up in period
costumes. There´s music playing in the background and the mannequins shake
their tambourines in time to the music, a very sophisticated display if i do
say so myself. There are lots of kids in the museum and one of them goes up
to Ben (the 62 year old on our trip that always wears a panama type hat)
and taps him thinking he is one of the mannequins. The kid starts crying
when he moves as he´s scared, highly amusing!!

We get to the hotel to find our campsite has been triple booked with
Exodus. What a shame as we have to upgrade to rooms!

Saturday 11th November - Huan Chaco

We visit the Moche temples of the Sun and the Moon. They´re huge and are
still being excavated and restored. There are some amazing fresco's that
have been uncovered. We have a guided tour for a couple of hours and then
drive to Chan Chan.

Chan Chan is one of the largest adobe mud cities in the world and was ruled
by the Chimu. We hire a guide here and wander around the maze of mud
streets. There are over 9 massive complexes here but only one has been
excavated sufficiently to allow us to visit. Its not as beautiful as the
Moche temples we visited earlier but its size is really impressive. The
Chimu were eventually conquered by the Inca´s as they cut off their water
supply to the city. Nice! Whilst we´re having a tour everyone is hassled by
the local school kids for autographs and to have their photos taken with the
kids.

We also visit the local museum (not one of the top 8 museums in the
world!!). In fact the best thing about it is the local dog outside. Its a
local special breed with no hair, very ugly and feels horrible to stroke.

In the evening we go to a local restaurant for dinner. A couple of locals
buy us a couple of jugs of beer. Dave does his security thing for us by
testing the beer and then waiting 10 minutes to see what happens. Slightly
excessive! At the end of the meal we´re short of change for a tip so make
do. As we walk down the street Dave pulls a large sock out of his pocket
filled with change and waves it above his head. This is his weapon to
protect us from the locals, god even I´m starting to get nervous now!!

Sunday 12th November - Lima

A really long drive to Lima. On the way we visit a small mud fortress and
bump into a strange woman from England travelling on her own just asking to
be mugged.

We arrive late in Lima and go out for dinner and then onto a Salsa bar. The
bar is empty but the bar staff give us lessons anyway, I think I´m a pretty
cool mover with nimble feet! On the way back to the hotel Kate falls asleep
in the taxi and every time we go around a bend her head gets closer the taxi
drivers shoulder. I think he´s relieved when we finally get back to the
hotel.

Monday 13th November - Lima

We´ve got really low expectations for Lima as all the books slate the place
and people we´ve met say its not very nice. We spend most of the day on
our own walking tour with Vicky and Bambino (with me as the tour guide only
because everyone else is too lazy to read the Lonely Planet and map read!).

There are 2 main squares in Lima with a pedestrianised section running
between them. Both squares are quite beautiful with some stunning buildings
surrounding them. In the main Plaza de Armas there is a presidential palace
where they have the changing of the guard at noon everyday. Its a rather
pompous affair with trumpets and horns blaring, and all the guards in their
red and blue outfits marching in time to the music. I´m fairly certain that
they´re playing the same song over and over again.

We have lunch in a funky old fashioned place that is still the same design
as it was in the 1920s.

In the afternoon we visit the local Inquisition Museum. I´m sure it would be
good (as the guide book says it is) but its all in Spanish! The best thing
about it is the underground dungeons with life like replicas showing the
nasty torture methods they used to use on mostly innocent people!

On the way to the museum, we´re about the cross the road when we hear this
massive bang. We´re getting ready to hit the decks as we think its gunfire
but then we realise that its a fire cracker. Even the locals looks nervous
and it takes awhile for our hearts to stop pounding!

We spend the afternoon wandering around Lima´s version of Chinatown and
shopping in lots of artisans places (if that's what you can call them!).
They all sell the same thing but we can´t help looking anyway! We do at least buy some stuff for the kids we should see on the Inca Trail (where we get accosted by an "unusual" man dressed as Superman.

We also visit San Francisco church which is famous for its catacombs. Again
its interesting with over 35,000 people buried below the church and lots of
bones on show but I´m getting tired now!

In the evening we go to a restaurant that is run by nuns. Its a fun place
and the nuns can´t do enough for you. We have fantastic steaks and good red
wine. At 9pm the nuns sing Ave Marie. All the kitchen staff come out to join
in as well! The bills expensive but we don´t mind as it all goes to charity.

Tuesday 14th November - Lima

Another full day in Lima. We have a quick look in the Cathedral - when I say
quick I mean quick as we literally stepped in the door and looked at the
ceiling and decided we couldn´t face another church!

We spend all day with Bambino and Vicky again.

We catch a taxi to the National Museum. I´m in the front seat and stuck
chatting to the taxi driver when all I want to do is look out of the window
at the sights. He´s pretty insistent and won´t stop asking me questions!

The National Museum is fascinating. (Kate H - you´d love all the museums
we´ve visited so far, are you jealous!). There are lots of relics and
information on all the different types of types of cultures that have
existed in Peru (Moche, Chimu, Incas etc).

We´ve had enough of sight seeing now, so we get a taxi back to the hotel.
The main square is totally blocked off as the police are worried about
protesters. Of course we´re allowed through as we´re Gringos.

We spend about 3 hours updating our blog and then have to resort to
McDonalds for tea. It has to be done!

All in all, we´ve been impressed with Lima. We had such low expectations
that we´ve been pleasantly surprised.

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Photos

Superman
"Buy nice things from my shop"

Comments

[Wachowski]

opportunity knocks
In the afternoon we visit the local Inquisition Museum. I´m sure it would be good (as the guide book says it is) but its all in Spanish! I bet you didn't expect that (boom boom)