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South America » Chile » Magallanes » Torres del Paine November 5th 2019

The next morning we were up early and out. It was raining quite a bit now so heading into the national park seemed a bit flat. But people were still enthusiastic so that was good. We travelled on a bright yellow, private overland vehicle. My sub-section of the group ended up at the "party" end of the bus which had train style tables and access to the music and USB ports. The bus came equipped with UNO and various other card games so we whiled away a few hours playing games, and getting to know each other. The bus was really comfy for long journeys however it did have little in the way of heating so the windows misted up with the rain beating against them so it was hard to see out. We stopped at ... read more
Lago Pehoe
Flamingos in the greyness
Setting up camp

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Punta Arenas November 4th 2019

R: So this blog is going to be a bit of a slow burner. I also forgot to mention - I found a Hindu temple in Punta Arenas - who knew? The next day started with a 6am start. Kevin from Canada, who I had sat with last night was conspicuously absent - he had swapped his steak for a crab lasagne last night with someone else who had ordered wrongly - turns out it was poison! So not a good start for the group as we were down one already. We were supposed to be heading out to an island where there was a penguin colony to see. However, the weather was against us (apparently). Although it seemed quite calm in Punta Arenas, apparently there was plenty of wind over at the island and the ... read more
Patagonia Landscapes
Patagonian Wildlife
Condor in Flight

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Punta Arenas November 1st 2019

Really early start today ? - breakfast at 6.15am and I’m up well before worrying about getting the stupid cases shut. Shove everything in and Rodolfo is ready and waiting to take us to the bus station at 6.30am. So nice to see him and say goodbye. He was fun to be around and had great playlists on our drives! We’re on Bus Sur this time. Not the luxury double decker we’re used to, but it’s comfortable, warm (nice!) and has overhead usb chargers which is handy. Unfortunately it also has piped audio linked to a tv screen at the front which is on an endless 5 minute loop of ads and music. David lasts about 30 minutes then goes to the front to ask the conductor to turn it off, which he does - phew. ... read more
Views towards the sea from the older barrios
Rent-a-Stray
Anti-Piñera signs

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Punta Arenas November 1st 2019

R: So it has taken me a while to get round to the blog for this with Christmas in the way, but I took a lot of notes when I was away on this trip so I hope I can re-create the experience for you. The next 10 days was going to be a whirlwind trip to Patagonia - somewhere we failed to get to on our world trip. This time I was travelling solo (being in term time so Cate couldn't join, plus it involved a lot of hiking, which Cate is not a fan of). So on Friday 1st November, I headed to Heathrow after work, rucksack packed, seemingly with too much stuff for my 10 day trip. I would be camping on this trip so there was more to think about than on ... read more
Street Art
Plaza des Armes
Magellan Strait

South America » Chile » Magallanes October 31st 2019

After a good night's sleep Maia’s back on form - hurray! We have breakfast, pack up our stuff and wait for the kayak van to arrive. It’s an absolutely beautiful, clear, sunny day - the best so far. We are able to enjoy some of the views that have eluded us so far. The Rio Serrano area where we’ve been staying at Nash Lodge for 3 nights is very quiet, with only a few places to stay, but we can imagine that it will soon become developed. Nash is building 20 more rooms and we see workers putting in fence posts elsewhere, getting ready to demarcate the land. We hang out with the cows and a dog outside in the sunshine and have a chat with some of the staff from Nash Lodge - Carolina the ... read more
Grey Hotel
Dwarfed by the icebergs on Lago Grey
Icebergs with Paine Grande in the background

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Torres del Paine October 29th 2019

Got up to pop to the loo at around midnight. Comment to anyone who’s listening that the sky is full of stars. Am just having a wee when there’s the sound of a bucketful of water hitting the floor! Maia has been violently sick, stumbles into the bathroom and delivers another load into the sink as I’m on the loo. Awesome! Try to put the light on, but there’s no electricity. Try to flush the loo but there’s no water. David is up and puts the mobile phone light on. Maia and I are trapped in the bathroom by a sea of sick. David throws me a pair of socks so I can try to hop over it back into the bedroom. I go downstairs in the hope or finding someone who can give me some ... read more
New Forest + snow capped mountains
Glorious sunset

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Torres del Paine October 28th 2019

Superb day hiking our longest ever hike to the Mirador Base de las Torres in Torres del Paine, Patagonia. The hotel have kindly prepared an early breakfast for us so that we’re ready for Andrea and Rodolfo to collect us at 7am to drive to the national park. It’s a pleasant two hour journey, but surprisingly it’s less stunning than other trips where we’ve had where we’ve seen more wildlife and mountains. We’re still approaching the Andes, but it’s just a bit less dramatic from this direction. Hiking poles at the ready, we set off at 9.15am and arrange to see Rodolfo again at 6pm...I think I’ve misheard as I didn’t quite realise how long we’d be walking for and now feel a bit nervous about my ability to complete the walk. After 1km we’re hot ... read more

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Torres del Paine October 28th 2019

Líe in - yay! We don’t go down to breakfast until about 8.30 - absolute bliss. Surprisingly we have no aches or pains after yesterday’s exertions, so we’re ready for action. Delicious breakfast including proper mugs of tea and coffee, scrambled eggs and yummy cake. All perfect. Departure time is a leisurely 9.30. We drive through more beautiful countryside to get the Paine - Pudeto catamaran to cross the Pehoe Lake for today’s hike to Mirador Francés. It’s allegedly a 16km return trip. There’s an option to do a 24km hike further up the mountain, but the timing of the ferry at this time of year (11am), doesn’t give us time to do that hike and get back in time for the last ferry of the day ?. The catamaran trip is half an hour and ... read more
Tree cemetery
View of the Valle Francés on the way up to the Mirador
One at a time hair-raising bridge

South America » Chile October 27th 2019

Fun road trip from El Calafate to Puerto Natales today. Woke up early worrying about what time we need to turn up at the bus station for our 7.30am departure. We’ve asked Ginny for the taxi at 7.00am but when I check my booking again it says we should arrive one hour before departure. Now I can’t sleep so get up and shower and go and knock on reception door just before 6.30am. The stray guard dog ‘blanqui’ curled up outside can’t be bothered to stir, but luckily Susanna is up and lets me in. She reassures me that turning up 15 minutes before departure is fine, but I ask her to get the taxi for 6.50 all the same. She also accepts card payment for yesterday’s trip, so at least that’s sorted. There’s a 5% ... read more
Scary dude next to me on the bus
Vast open spaces for mile after mile
La Ovejera at the Chilean border

South America » Chile » Santiago Region October 19th 2019

Hats off to Air France for a fab flight...great selection of films (I watched The Favourite and Rocketman), delicious aeroplane food (yes, really...and champagne!) and most importantly, we got there safely. Arrived to find Santiago in a state of emergency. The taxi driver described the previous night as a war zone. Protests over increases in metro fares sparked military intervention and he said about 300 arrests. At the hotel, the owner had prepared a letter advising guests to stay in the area (Barrio Italia), although she said it would be fine to go out for a wander, giving us a map and some routes. Casasur Charming Hotel is a gorgeous boutique hotel where we got a warm welcome, coffee and lots of helpful advice before heading out to explore. We aimed for the Mercado Central and ... read more
Waiters watching the news unfold
Los Panchos
Plaza de Armas




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