Tourist del Paine

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Well out of Argentina and into Chile. We arrived in the small port town of Puerto Natales a bit tired but excited about the new stamp in the passport. The town was, well dreary and a bit depressing. So it did not take much time to decide and head out to the famous Parque Torres Del Paine as soon as possible. So after a night in a creepy hotel we headed out with bags full of food and supplies.

The weather welcomed us with cold showers and strong winds, but all more the adventure. Arriving in the park I was horrified to find out that the entrance was US$30 per person and you had to pay for most camping sites. On a budget like mine that is the same price as staying at hostels with beds and showers, but for camping. I tried to shake off the fact that this place was breaking my budget and enjoy the scenery around me that was smothered in clouds. In any case after a rough start we made up to the first camp set in a beautiful valley with Torres staring down at us from above.

The following day our spirits lightened and we headed down to the next camp six hours away. One of the more scenic trails, we passed by a series of lakes many of which reflected the surrounding mountains as perfect mirrors. Over a few streams and through a couple of meadows we found ourselves looking up at an icy cliff a thousand meters high. As we trekked further on I looked up to see a massive avalanche of freshly fallen snow come roaring down the cliff ripping the ice off the face. That was pretty amazing but something I hope only to see from a distance.

After the third day Tasha hopped on a boat and headed back to catch a plane to Rio to meets some friends. Though it did sound tempting to head out on that same boat and eat a steak dinner but I knew I had to finish the last five or six day of the trek.

The park has two main hikes that are popular among trekkers. The first is the W which is a nice three or four day hike but stupid because you have to backtrack twice and take a $20 boat ride. The other option is doing the full circuit which takes you in front of the Torres, over a moderate pass and then around the backside to shoot you out where you started.

Because this park for some reason is a Mecca for many inexperienced trekker where everyone feels especially hard core if they do the "hard" circuit. Not to rag on the people, but I cannot explain how frustrated I got with everyone asking whether I was doing the "w" of the "circuit". I was like "who gives a crap I am just going hiking". Not too mention the "pass" that was seen as some sort of Everest achievement and was in fact nothing more than hill compared to the hike in Bariloche. Though beautiful this atmosphere took a bit of the natural feel out of the park and made it more like a Disney Resort for trekkers.

In any case I eventually reached Glacier Grey at the end of the day. Sunset was an amazing array of colors over the cold ice and reminded me where I was. Right before heading to bed that night I heard two massive blast which sounded like dynamite and was actually the glacier collapsing into lake at its base. It was amazing.

The next day I headed over the pass and then into the backside of the trail which had more subtle but just as amazing landscape. Nearing the end of the seven days I found myself running down the trail with my massive pack trying to make good time and as well as trying to avoid the mosquitos ( I think the few people I passed thought I was crazy).

The last day came and I was lucky to wake up with a swollen eye due to mosquito bites. So off it was out of the park and back into civilization. Feeling a little bit exhausted and a few pounds lighter I looked forward to a few days break before heading of to the southern most city in the world, Ushuaia. So until then tchau tchau.

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