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Published: April 25th 2008
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Heading out of Puerto Natales I jumped on a bus headed to Ushuaia, the "southern most" city in the world (Depending on what you define as a city). On a quick bus change I ran into to Tim, a Swiss guy I met in Torres Del Paine and we quickly got to sharing our adventures stories. The landscape this far south resembles that what I imagine Alaska might at such an latitude to the north; barren, wind blown and cold. A few hours into the ride we boarded a boat to transfer us over the Straight of Magellan. Accompanied by both wind and dolphins it was kind of impressive to be crossing this historic channel.
As we neared Ushuaia the landscape became a bit less bleak as forest and snow covered peaks began to dot the countryside. Once arriving in Ushuaia Tim and I met up with a few others and we quickly found a hostel in the chilly town. Ushuaia is a port town and is quickly growing to make way for the influx of tourist many of which head out on the Antarctic cruises that leave from town ( a slight cost of $4-10k). A funny note is
that every things in the town is has the prefix "End of the World". End of the world t-shirt, end of the world steak, end of the world road, end of the world train and so on, it was a bit silly.
The providence of Tierra Del Fuego in which Ushuaia is located was named by the early European sailors who often saw unmanned fires lining the coast as they passed by. The people whom the fires belonged to where a tribe of locals known as the Yamanas who used to cover themselves in seal fat to protect from the cold and wet. This worked very well when hunting in the icy waters as their skin was like a perfect wetsuit. But when the Europeans arrived they made them put clothes and they quickly died off due to exposure.
A short boat tour of the beagle channel gave us some views of the local sea life. Growing up in Southern California I was not so impressed by the seals and sea lions, but the views were nice.
Though I had heard that Ushuaia is often not as amazing at it seems I was open for the experience
and me and Tim headed out to explore the national park. We had heard that the national park was not nearly as impressive or as large as the parks in Patagonia, but we figured we would spend a couple of nights there and see for ourselves. We hitchhiked from town on a rainy day where the mountains turned a snowy white. We figured the since we did not pay for transportation to the park why pay the entrance, so we hiked into the forest and climbed a couple ( or four) fences and bypassed the guard.
That day we met Heidi, a Mexican girl working as a kayak guide in Puerto Natales. We quickly all became good friends and set off to explore the park together. Though no towering granite spires where in view we hiked to the top of Cerro Guanaco to see an amazing view of Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel.
After a session of rolling rocks down the mountain we arrived at a barren ridge. Me and Tim quickly realized the exposed rocky, barren and cold place was perfect for a campsite. So we decided we would hike back up the next day and camp
there, though I am sure it was forbidden, but since no one was aware we were even in the park who would know.
So after convincing Heidi that her tent would be fine on the ridge we all headed up the next day. We were met by heavy winds as Tim and I exchanged worried looks knowning that Heidi's tent would not last a minute in the 60MPH wind. When we arrived at what we thought was the less exposed spot we fought the wind trying to get my tent up. After the wind ripped the stakes out and bent one of my poles (remember this tent is made for such conditions) we secured the tent with rocks and backpacks before taking shelter. Of course after thirty minutes the wind died completely never to return. So the three of us cramped in my tent, made some pasta and warmed ourselves with a bit of whisky before heading to sleep.
Sunrise brought an amazing array of colors the raced across the sky above the Beagle Channel. I can say that this was unique experience as I am not sure anyone had ever camped on that ridge. Though frozen to
the bone the spectacular rays of sun made what will be one of the most memorable sunrises of my life.
We headed down the ridge (off the trail of course), back into the forest to avoid the guards and out of the park back into town below. Feeling ambitious we tried to crash the End of the World Marathon (only half though), but it became logistically impossible so we headed to some nearby ice caves instead. After hitching back into town again I backed my bags and prepared to fly back Buenos Aires the next day. And so I said goodbye to my new friends and headed early the next morning. And here my camping adventures in the south of Argentina came to and end as I headed towards the busy capital of Buenos Aires. But the amazing sights of the thunderous glaciers, jagged peaks and sky scrapping granite spires will never be to far from my thoughts.
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