Blogs from Puerto Natales, Magallanes, Chile, South America - page 4

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South America » Chile » Magallanes » Puerto Natales January 22nd 2012

So, its been a packed few days since our last blog. We made our way from Cochrane to Villa O´Higgins all the way to the end of the Carretera Austral. We travelled down with our group of new-found friends after two nights in Cochrane. The scenery going south from Cochrane was beautiful and it was appreciated all the more because we didn´t do it like so many other travellers - on bicycle. The cyclists seem to outnumber the backpackers in this part of Chile. We were a group of eight and found ourselves a cozy Cabaña in town with a fireplace and fully equipped kitchen. We tasked one of our travel companions, Dirk the Belgian chef, to cook us a meal. So, given a budget, we visited all the supermercados to look for some fresh produce ... read more
Villa O Higgins
Villa O Higgins
Lago O Higgins

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Puerto Natales January 10th 2012

Scenic Cruising: Woke up to overcast skies and drizzle. Every now and then the sun would peek through and while having coffee I saw a rainbow, grabbed my camera and in my robe headed to the verandah for a picture. A note about my camera; the Cannon refuses to work even with fresh batteries. I turn it on and get a message “change batteries”. This is a real bummer as I am relying on the telephoto lens to get good shots of the icebergs. I took it to the photo shop and he tried his rechargeable batteries and the camera works fine. It appears that the Duracell Ultras are too lightweight to power the lens. Will have to search for a rechargeable kit or some “heavy weight” ones tomorrow in Puerto Arenas. After breakfast I went ... read more

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Puerto Natales January 1st 2012

My 2012 New Year has been very very quite. I took a walk along the coast in the town this morning after I booked my bus ticket. Almost everything is closed today. Most people slept in and stay home to enjoy a new day of the year with the family. I can imagine they´re gathering around the table for a morning coffee and a warm breakfast. For me, I´m happy to enjoy the peaceful and quite moment to enjoy the view and smell the fresh air. What´s in my head today? What´s my New Year wishes? My mind is literally empty and my walk is just following the curb. why bother to think of a wish? As we all said ¨Happy New Year¨, isn´t that the biggest wish!!! I didn´t sleep well last night because of ... read more

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Puerto Natales December 31st 2011

And so to Chile. We've been in Argentina so long that it feels strange to be crossing the border. How on Earth will we adapt? A bus from El Calafate zips us across the border at Río Turbio, a (yet another) dull, windy, workaday town, and into Puerto Natales. Located on the shore of Seno Ultima Esperanza (Last Hope Sound) in Magallanes, Chile's southernmost (and that's saying something) province, Puerto Natales - not a city I'd write home about - is well known as the entry point for a place whose reputation worldwide is nothing short of Legendary. Torres del Paine National Park is, pretty much everyone agrees, the reason you come to this ever-so-distant part of Patagonia. Well, much as I hate to disappoint, this blog entry stops here. The day we arrived in Puerto ... read more

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Puerto Natales December 28th 2011

Hit Torres del Paine running. After swanning around on a ship in the Antartica for 12 days not doing a lot of physical exercise, it was then a rude shock to don the pack and tackle a steep climb for two hours to reach our accommodation - Refugio Chileno. Settled in a valley next to a glacier river. The climb into Torres del Paine was worth the effort. Three towers in full view, cloudless perched above a glacier and glacier lake. It was fantastic to spot 2 condours taking advantage of the draft and soaring up in the mountain tops. Next stop was the French Valley which consisted of a long day of walking up and down through forest, rock scrambling, dodging tree roots and bull dust not to mention rickety swing bridges over raging rivers. ... read more

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Puerto Natales December 19th 2011

Best roommate ever!! I was mumbling when I got up that I'd love a coffee and Michele literally volunteered to get me one from the breakfast room, 3 floors down! I offered to marry her and she said only if she was still single after 40..... I'll keep hoping! Did I mention the kick ass pink fuzzy garbage can cover? SO temped to steal it for my house; I love random silly useless things! Off to the airport and boy what a difference in the crowds. It was obvious that today was a normal work day versus Sunday when we wandered the city. Sky Airlines is who we are flying on and while I do appreciate a free meal (a rarity these days) this one was a bit odd. I loved my salmon coloured bun with ... read more
Magellan Straight
Magellan Straight

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Puerto Natales November 17th 2011

Day 10- Traveling down to the Magallanes region The next day, we went to the airport to catch our flight to Punta Arenas. Despite this being a lunchtime flight, our good fortune with the food didn´t last, and all we were served was a box containing chocolate biscuits! Not very substantial when you hadn´t eaten since breakfast. The landing was a little hairy, as there was a 120kph wind blowing, which is windy even for there. We were met at the airport, and put into buses for the 3.5hr transfer to Puerto Natales. The other travellers in the bus was those staying at the same hotel as us, the rest were staying in a hotel a bit further out of town. On the way, we saw lots of ranches and at periodic points along the road, ... read more
Our room looked out over the harbour
Bus Stop in middle of nowhere

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Puerto Natales November 7th 2011

Day 25 - Saturday 5th November We slept in just a bit because we were both not feeling very well, and we didn’t have breakfast till 9. Today along with what we got yesterday we also got a great bowl of fruit pieces. Shelley has been feeling very fruit deprived lately so it was a fantastic treat. When we headed out the door we didn’t have any great plan for the day other than going for a long stroll. There isn’t a great deal to see in town and what there is we have basically already seen. There are a few attractions outside of town including a penguin colony and a reconstruction of the original town, both of which are best seen with a tour group. We weren’t overly interested in seeing either using a bus ... read more
Buildings at the foreshore
The birds of Punta Arenas
A new friend we met on the way

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Puerto Natales April 22nd 2011

Watery Labyrinth Depending on your timing, a journey on the Navimag Ferry can be a romantic ride through the breathtaking fiords in Chilean Patagonia, or it can be a wild, roller coaster of storms with furniture flying across the room and passengers green at the gills. I was (un)lucky enough to have the latter, but then again, challenging experiences can bond friends forever and make a great story. A stretch of several hundred kilometers of Chilean Aisen is fractured into a labyrinth of fiords, channels, islands and dead-ends, and crossed by no roads. Thus, to go north, I needed to either fly or take a ferry. When I flew to Buenos Aires in 2010, I decided to return to California only by bus, boat and train for a greater adventure and to make the smallest carbon ... read more
layers receeding into the distance
almost full moon and a bit of blue sky
heeling over and not the worst of it

South America » Chile » Magallanes » Puerto Natales April 5th 2011

On the bus from Ushuaia to Puerto Natales the bus company arranged a puncture in the middle of nowhere as a photo-opportunity for the gringos on the bus. And the middle on nowhere in Patagonia really is the middle of nowhere! (see first photograph). Puerto Natales really didn't give itself a chance as in April it was very cold and windy, and rained a lot. The town was filled with frustrated trekkers trying to look like they were on their way to some daring do, rather following a compass bearing to a WiFi-equipped cafe. One cafe even advertised itself as "it's warm in here". Statues are normally expressions of veneration, whereas in Puerto Natales they are also used to hold up lampposts (see second photograph). However, Puerto Natales is by the sea in a really nice ... read more
collapse or bust
bay and mountains




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