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Published: August 22nd 2006
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The path was thin and dark and lined with as much noise as I imagine deckhands would make as they booed prisoners marching to the plank. Tumba and I climbed down a steep bank together to cool off in the fast black water of the Rio Beni after a fruitful four-hour traipse through the Bolivian jungle.
Tumba was in the water before I even got my shoes off, splashing the water over himself and making noises almost like a zoo animal. Although it was night, it was still hot--like a steam room. My shirt was wet, as if I'd worn it into the river, though I hadn't even stepped in yet. In my bathing suit, the water felt good, cool and refreshing. But it was dark and I knew the Rio Beni had a strong current. I was glad we didn't stay long.
When I stepped out of the river, I nearly squashed a giant long-legged tan spider. I've mostly banished my fear of spiders. But I'd just watched a spider eat a flying bug almost as big as me while Tumba explained that they're all dangerous at night because they're looking for food. So I jumped and fell
back in the water. Tumba laughed at me. It's just a river spider, he said.
I had a lovely candle-lit dinner and a bottle of wine with four German guys and my Bolivian traveling companion, Emily, from England. Very romantic. Later, a night under mosquito nets. The next day we walked out to a giant three-legged tree, the first discovered in the world. It was a massive tripod, the center of which was something like 80 feet high and supporting more tree above. I swang on vines and snuck up on wild pigs. It was an amazing taste of the jungle. But I really think you need more than two days to be able to legitimately claim you've been to the jungle.
The Pampas in Bolivia are another story alltogether.
Emily and I started our adventure in the Pampas after one of the most pleasant afternoons ever in Rurrenabaque, lounging in hammacks at a fabulous hostal on the Rio Beni, with hot water and the most amazing breakfasts I've had (maybe ever) for $4 a day.
The Pampas tour started with a long, bumpy jeep ride--about three hours. Then we boarded an extra-long conoe with a
A kid in a candy store
We could all tell that Domingo is not a recentful outdoors guide. He loves his job because he basically gets to play in his backyard all day and show off its creatures. portable outboard motor. Our guide, Domingo, was a lot like a little boy playing in his backyard. He loved what he found and was outragously excited to show it off.
There's an aligator. There's another one. There´s a wild hairing. There's a family of turtles stacked up on top of each other. The farther the boat went, the more we saw. I kept thinking we'd seen everything we were going to see and then he would slow down to show us something new. There's the biggest rodent in the world.
A capybara looks just like a rat only it's twice the size of a large dog. It was by far the weirdest animal I've ever seen.
Then we saw squiral monkeys and then we saw howler monkeys and then we saw pink fresh-water dolphins.
That first night we watched the sunset and then set out with flashlights to catch the red glare of aligator eyes. I did not expect what came next. Domingo pulled the boat ashore and chased down a baby aligator for everyone to hold. Feeling that this was not exactly a zero-impact activity, I obstained out of principal. But it was amazing to
lurking in the foliage
These big guy is the king of the wetlands. He's a black caeman and known to be relatively fierse--eating whatever, or whoever, comes along when he's hungry. see him up close and personal.
One of the three German boys (diiferent group from the jungle) plucked a tooth out of the aligator's mouth. I was appolled, but silent. Emily had a wild disdain for this group of recent German high school grads. She called them "stereotypical Germans" and thought she understood them badmouthing her at the dinner table on more than one occasion. I´m not really sure what a stereotypical German is like.
Anyway, the next day, we wandered through the marshlands in muck boots in hot pursuit of anacondas. Emily had trouble with her hip and had to stop and wait for us to return. She figured she would just miss out on the anaconda and gave me her camera. But Domingo (a.ka. Sunday) wouldn't have any visitor to his backyard leave without seeing its charms, so he tucked an anaconda up the back of his shirt and carried it that way to Emily.
We ended up staying an extra day in Rurrenabaque because there was a problem with one of the planes and everyone was delayed. Life was tough that last day. There was nothing to do but loungle by the pool and
sssomething to remember
Yessss this is an American Cobra. But down't worry mom, it only has 40 percent venom and would only make you really sick for about 48 hours. It won't kill you, Domingo said relax in hammocks.
I went out with a roundup of stranded travelers to celebrate our canceled flights and ended up drinking enough to think drinking tap water was a good idea--a lot of tap water. I ended up with salmonila and stayed an extra couple days in La Paz to recover. I arrived in Arequipa, Peru on Friday night and am staying with a family. I start a week of Spanish classes tomorrow morning.
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Ryan
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Is that an Anaconda in your pants?
So, some guy just puts Anacondas in his pants? Hmmm. That image will stick with me. Also sticking: that wetlands sunset. And the image of a pink dolphin. I hope you got a picture of that! Come see me in New York when you come back, I'll take you through a different jungle--one made entirely of concret. Love ya. Hope you're feeling better. Please take it easy and stop drinking the water!!! XXOO -Ry