Even with all of the excitement of our day on the Moreno glaciar, we managed to book a flight to Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego for the same afternoon. We landed in the southernmost tip of Argentina after only an hour by plane and found ourselves in an even colder place than El Calafate, it did feel very Christmassy though. At the tourist office we were given the name of a B&B, ´Los Retamas´ run by Eduardo and Monica. They were a lovely couple who really took us under their wing and within half an hour of arriving we knew the best things to see and do in the area and had about ten maps to choose from. They beat the Lonely Planet hands down! Southernmost road in the world! Next day we set off in
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