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Published: April 3rd 2006
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Perito Moreno Glacier
Perito Moreno Glacier As I stared out the window there appeared an aqua-marine lake in the barren, hostile looking plains. This signified our approach to El Calafate airport.
The drop in temperature was significant. No more walking around in a t-shirt and shorts, we were now in Patagonia. The landscape looked as wild and amazing as in the numerous photos I´d seen. I was so excited to be here.
The pilot mentioned something about how we had arrived at a very special time which had something to do with the Perito Moreno Glacier. We just thought it was the usual tourist speil but found out later that the ice bridge connecting Perito Moreno Galcier to the penninsula was about to collapse. Apparently it is a major event that happens only infrequently.
To understand how major an event this is to the locals, TV channels broadcast live images of the glacier during the daylight hours and a lot of the pubs will show it all day long. If you think this is just a tourist obsession you´re wrong, even the guys that worked in the our hostel were excited and made 12 hour vigils to the galcier. We´re talking about 12 hours
Perito Moreno Glacier from the viewing balcony
Perito Moreno Glacier from the viewing balcony in freezing temperatures and pouring rain.
I booked a minitrekking tour to Perito Moreno Glacier. It was an early start but it looked like it was going to be a beautiful sunny day. How wrong I was. We hadn´t reckoned on the infamous Patagonia climate.
It took us a few hours to get to the national park and by the time we reached the viewing balconies it was freezing cold and raining. We had and hour and half on the viewing balconies which I thought was rather excessive at first. I thought I´d have plenty of time to grab something to eat before we set off to go ice trekking. But on seeing the glacier I became mesmorised by it´s beauty. The sheer size of it is amazing. I´ve never seen anything like it. The colours are just incredible.
The crowds waiting for the ice bridge to collapse was rediculously huge. It had been predicted that the bridge would collapse today and people had flocked into the national park. There were so many people that it was difficult to take a shot of the galcier without somebodys head or shoulder getting into it.
Apparently Perito Moreno
Trekking on Perito Moreno Glacier
Trekking on Perito Moreno Glacier galcier is the most active in the world and grows at an incredible rate of 1.5 metres per day. Most glaciers grow at a rate of 1.5 metres a year, that is if they´re not retreating. It´s so incredibly active that huge chunks of ice are falling off the galcier every few minutes. The sound of the crashing ice is incredible, even the small chunks (at least they look small from where we are) make an huge amount of noise when they crash into the water.
I was started getting really hungry and knew that if I didn´t get food now I would have to wait until we get back to the hostel at 7pm as I hadn´t brought any lunch with me. But everytime I turned my back there was the thunder crack of splitting ice folllowed by the thunderous crashing of ice into the sea. I was sure that the moment my back was turned the ice bridge would collapse. I had caught the PMG obsession and just couldn´t leave it.
With only 10 minutes left before we had to get back to the coach I reluctantly left the glacier behind and raced up to the
Ice and rock
Ice and rock cafe. The problem was the cafe was jammed with people trying to escape from the freezing rain. Looks like I woudn´t be eating anything until dinner time. It was going to be a long day!!
I was lucky enough to meet an Aussie couple who donated an apple to the Khamlu Hunger Appeal. They had even offered me some of their sandwiches but I couldn´t deprive them of any more of their food. After all it was my own fault.
We then hopped onto a boat and made our way across the lake to the edge of the glacier. The ride was pretty cool, cruising past bobbing icebergs. The only bad thing was that the rain was getting heavier and we were not looking forward to getting out of the boat.
After strapping on clampons and being instructed to walk like a penguin when walking uphill on the ice we set off onto the glacier.
It was quite an international group. There was even a group of college girls on spring break. They were harlarious. They had dressed so inappropriately for the weather and activity. They must have got on the wrong tour and thought we
Waiting for the ice bridge to collapse
Waiting for the ice bridge to collapse... were going out clubbing or something. One of them was even wearing suede boots for god sakes!!
The treking itself was great fun. We toured the glacier and were shown various features such as drain holes and crevaces. The colours on display were amazing. I've never seen more beautiful shades of blue.
The trek ended at the coolest bar in the world. Literally!! We were served couple of large glasses of scotch whiskey with fresh glacier ice. It sure warmed us up. I couldn't think of a finer way to end the day.
It was an incredible experience and so much fun despite the wind, freezing temperatures and the rain.
I have to add that after days and days of people keeping 12 hour vigils and constant live TV broadcast. No one actually witnessed the ice bridge collapse. Nature gave everyone the two finger salute. The ice bridge collapsed at 11pm of the night we were there. Needless to say everyone was gutted. That's nature for you.
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Tristan Pemberton
non-member comment
Cool
Hey, that sounds very cool. We saw a bit of coverage of that on the Aussie news recently. This has inspired Jules and I to contemplate heading to South America for a holiday in August. We'll keep reading with interest. Keep having fun. Tris