Blogs from Vanuatu, Oceania
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In which our heroes arrive to a non-western country, become guests in a local parish, backpack to a remote island and twice try to get stoned but are unsuccessful. If you drill a hole through the earth from Israel you will emerge in the South Pacific. The closest land to that point will be a one of the most remote islands in the world, the small island of Rapa Iti in French Polynesia. In my mid 20s I was sure that by age 40 I will find myself on Rapa but having passed my 39th birthday and understanding that getting to a location that is served by a once-in-a-few-months transport ship taking 3 weeks to arrive is probably not a possibility in my current obligations. So I pushed the timeframe for getting to Rapa to ... read more
7 October 2012 Sunday. Sea day, which was pretty much as described previously. 8 October 2012 Monday. We arrived in Port Vila, Vanuatu at breakfast time. Vanuatu is another of those South Pacific Islands favored by “The Survivor” reality TV show which Linda and I have followed since the first season. Vanuatu used to be called New Hebrides, the name given it by Captain Cook when he arrived in the islands in 1774. He was preceded by Portugese Captain De Quiros in 1606 and Captain Bougainville in 1767. But it was the Americans who arrived there in 1942, just ahead of the Japanese, who made the greatest impact on the people. The Americans built the largest forward operating base in the South Pacific, from which it would start to turn the tide of WWII. One officer ... read more
Tales of unique religious practices have emanated from Tanna Island for decades, a place where seemingly mortal humans are accorded divine status. There is the Prince Philip movement, which worships the Duke of Edinburgh, but far more popular is the John Frum movement, where their figure of veneration is a US Marine. Since I am drawn to observing different religions, it was inevitable that my journey to Tanna would seek out one of these faiths. The village where I stayed possessed an extraordinary sense of community, as evidenced by the story of a husband and wife unable to have children, so when the husband’s brother fathered twins, he gave one to the infertile couple to raise as a child of their own. Another expression of this communal spirit was the Sunday morning church service at the ... read more
The afternoon arrival at Tanna Island’s modest airport commenced a quest that was as astonishing as it was exhilarating – a journey to view Mount Yasur, claimed to be the world’s second most active volcano with its constant Strombolian eruptions. The off-road vehicle drove along the deeply potholed and creviced road that caused all occupants to rattle around as we bumped and bounced our way to the island’s east side. We travelled across the mountains that scar the middle of Tanna, and we climbed into the smothering fog that obscured everything else from sight. By the time we descended into the valley, night surrounded us and the vehicle’s dull headlights barely illuminated the road, so the scenery comprised of fleeting images of trees encroaching onto the narrow thoroughfare. Suddenly, the landscape dramatically changed from a definite ... read more
So we were up early for the drive to the Brisbane airport from Kingaroy....5am early, which was way to early for Me and Shoni. A quick stop for some brekky and it was off to the car parking place and then off to book in for our flights to Vanuatu. So we got there a bit early but hey, it's better to be early than late (no-one likes anyone who is late to get on the plane!!). Take off - in the sky and over a bit of sea and in not too much time at all we were there! We travelled this time with our good friends Brendan and Shoni and we are glad we did....it makes it more fun to share the experiences with and more interesting throughout the day (so we don't fight ... read more
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No new year hangover for me but think Martin's bottle of Sake may have had an effect. Little slow to start this morning for both of us. Mystery Island is our shore trip today which is in the southern end of the islands that form Vanuatu. It is uninhabited as the local people from the nearby island of Aneityum consider it taboo. There is a landing strip on the island used in WW2 for the allied forces. The P&O Princess Jewel is the largest ship to enter into the lagoon. I went across for a swim and left Martin drinking a coffee and having flex time in the room. Again we used the tenders to go to and from, deck 4 to board and a temporary jetty set up to receive us. The locals must love ... read more
Shore day in Port Vila Vanuatu. This is the capital and on the island of Efate, the south west of the group of islands formerly known as The New Hebrides as named and chartered by Captain Cook. A small capital of around 30,000 people from a mix of nationalities with the principal language of Bislama (pidgin type of language ) English and French. In the harbour lies the island of Iririki which has expensive looking resorts doted around. There seems to be quite a lot of marketing of homes and villa to expats, lots of real estates. The harbor had a constant sea mist today, not sure if this is usual. It was hot and muggy when we disembarked and we ran the gauntlet of the taxis and vans lined up and took one to town. ... read more
Wala Island is a small island paradise in the north east of Vanuatu. It has 323 inhabitants who make a living out of the copra and cocoa crops as well as some beef cattle which are mostly on other nearby islands. Tourism is an add on with 3 or more cruise boats a week anchoring off the 150 foot deep water anchorage only 500 metres off the island. Many of the people today came from the nearby island of Malekula to assist with the various tourism opportunities. The people are called Small Nambas named after the penis leaf sheath that was traditional wear. The island had a tradition of cannibalism due to its isolation from the outside world and talking to a man today he said in his grandfathers time (he was 45) it was still ... read more
Shore Excursion to another tropical paradise
Published: January 13th 2012Oceania » Vanuatu » Espiritu SantoToday's shore excursion is to Champagne Bay which is situated on the East coast of Vanuatu's largest island, Espiritu Santo. This is Spanish for "Holy Spirit" and was first sighted by Europeans in 1606 when the Portuguese navigator Pedro Fernandez de Quiros landed at Big Bay west of Champagne Bay. The beach has fine white sand, and this fringes forests and mountains. 200 residents live in this bay and today they were all out flogging their wares. $2 for a photo with a snake, lizard or turtle, the usual sarongs, shirts and woven products as well as food such as banana, pineapple, passion fruit, coconut, mango, pawpaw, dried banana chips, dried tapioca chips, and a local nut that we used to eat in PNG which we called Gallup nuts. The market area was set up in ... read more
Another Story by Dr. SueLin Hilbert
Published: August 27th 2011Oceania » Vanuatu » Santo » LuganvilleGetting a good night’s sleep in the bush is always a tricky thing. Depending on one’s level of jet-lag, adjusting to an early bedtime can be difficult. When there isn’t much in the way of electricity after the sun goes down and your day begins at sunrise, the prospect of staying up past 7pm seems like a tremendous feat. Once you do get to bed, it can be difficult finding the proper body position to fit the uneven ground or occasional cement floor. Regardless of how diligent you are about tucking in your net or zipping your tent flap, there will often be that one persistent mosquito singing a high-pitched lullaby in your ear while desperately looking for some small patch of exposed flesh. If you do manage to find a moment of solace with the ... read more
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