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Distance traveled 1260km/4300km(29%).Stayed 6 nights. On 21st May(day 18),a short 150km journey to Exmouth which is located on the same peninsula which juts out off the mainland as Coral Bay.On one side is Exmouth Bay and on the other the northern tip of Ningaloo Reef in the Indian Ocean.Exmouth was almost destroyed by a cyclone in March 1999 but has more than recovered with a brand new marina development under construction likely to change the character of the sleepy little town for ever.The other landmark here is a joint US/Australian communication center which has at it’s apex huge masts thrusting into the sky.Apparently the Sept 11th attacks in the USA caused a shutdown of tourism here for a while.The Cape Range National Park is located on the seaward side of the peninsula and remarkably has a low mountain range running along the coastline.Why remarkable?Well…this is the first mountain of any sort seen since Perth.We checked into yet another caravan park by name of Ningaloo Lighthouse Park which is sited at the tip of the peninsula with a lighthouse sitting proudly behind us.We have adapted to the campervan lifestyle and I guess there may be some curiosity as to how it all
hangs together.Firstly,a few specification notes about Washongi……the photo’s will have indicated that she is not lacking in length.This means that we have all the mod cons one needs for this undertaking….lots of cupboard space to store clothing and provisions.A neat little fridge which works like a bomb,a stove with two plates(gas operated)and a microwave.Kettle,toaster and all the essential kitchen equipment one needs.The bed is easy to make up,large and very comfortable.Bearing in mind Sue is a gifted sleeper,she hasn’t missed a snore from day one….a sure sign that the bed is suitable for slumber.There is a tiny toilet and shower in one combination which we decided not to use at all choosing to use it to store golf clubs and fishing rods.Additionally the camp site facilities are so good it is really not necessary.It has a small chemically controlled tank and if we were using it there are “Dump Points” in each park(I kid you not…that’s what they are called).A 25 liter water tank supplies water for on board washing up.Two camp chairs and a table make outdoor living pleasant in the shade of mainly casuarina trees.On arrival at each camp site the electrical power cable is connected and if
needs be the water tank can be topped up.Very organized.BBQ’s are located in different areas and with a stainless steel surface and gas fired,cooking is simple with the very real prospect of one of those “around the braai” discussions with a fellow camper.A huge bonus of the campervan experience is the fact that you lose touch with reality….no TV,little news and no newspapers.Swine flu,Jacob Zuma…it all fades away and you realize how unimportant it all is.We did,however,hear about the devastating floods on the East Coast which is a long way from Exmouth.A small frontal system,the first of the winter,had hit Perth and was threatening to influence the weather up here.Well…at 3am a mighty rainstorm pounded us with the sound turned up impressively by Washongi’s thin metal roof.How the earth and every life form must have been rejoicing in this life giving moment after almost seven months of no rain!Strong winds then put a damper on the first full day here…..chill out and read time.The Cape Range Mountain runs south for about 100kms with a good sealed road making access to a number of wonderful bays and beaches easy.The reef is about 2-3 kms offshore and inshore of this is one
continuous stretch of exquisitely shaped,calm bays with crystal clear azure water and white sands.And hardly anyone in sight!Both Sue and I cannot believe how deserted these stunning beaches are.Virtually every day of our extended stay we spent exploring many of these hamlets….fishing rods always at the ready.Most of this area falls in a National Park and you guessed it….lots of ‘roo’s.Well….actually one less.Latish one afternoon I handed Sue the keys to prepare her for our next destination which is 650kms away.Kangaroo’s tend to congregate late afternoon for their “should I cross the road” suicidal ritual and a particularly large one came out of nowhere and smacked the driver’s side front wheel.Game,set and match…in about her 5th minute at the wheel Sue had notched a ‘roo.Lots of tears and anguish but we now know why so many are wiped out each day.Nothing like first hand experience.Australian fact file….ever wondered just how big Australia is?Well…get your mind around this.WA has a land surface area of 1,021,478 square miles and makes up a third of Australia….South Africa’s is 470,978 square miles.Do the maths….WA is 2.2 times larger than SA.An update on the cane toad….this not so little amphibian(largest recorded weighed in at 5.8
lbs)was introduced from Central America into Oz in 1935 to eat beetles in the sugar cane fields.Trouble is that they didn’t quite fulfill their mission and instead started multiplying at an astronomical rate extending their range annually as they hopped into new territory.They feed on just about anything edible including carrion(no shortage)and the scary bit is that their skin is toxic and anything that eats them dies soon after from heart failure.Their impact on animal and bird life,let alone domestic pets,is therefore a major problem.The female can lay up to 30000 eggs at a time so this has all the makings of a wildlife nightmare.No doubt scientists are busy trying to finds ways to nuke them but….the natural order of things is so delicate.Get it wrong and nightmare scenario’s kick in.Fishing update….if I could drop anchor and stay here for a long time this would be the place.The fly has worked exceptionally well and I have caught some really good fish…..trevally,dart(wave garrick),spangled emperor(not sure if the Aussies catch these on fly),rock cod.It has been exhilarating sight casting to fish in crystal clear water.But the “silver ghosts”(bonefish)have been elusive despite my spending hours wading and looking for them.They are here but
I suspect one has to be on a boat to see them and cover more water.As luck would have it the local bonefish guide was fully booked.But…..this simply means that the bonefish quest goes back into the bucket list.To my fishing buddies….these waters and the potential is unlike anything I have ever seen.We need to ponder a trip here?PLEASE KEEP THE MESSAGES ON THE BLOG SITE COMING….GREAT HEARING FROM YOU.
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Barrie Irons
non-member comment
hi from Hobart
Dear Tim and Sue Just had a fantastic hour going through all your bloggs, I cannot tell you how lovely it looks there, only a few more years before I will retire and do some travel. Hobart and tasmania is gearing up for you people, bit of snow on the mountain a week back. let us know time of arrival. Will give you a ring on your mobile when you are in range, just send a text on 0438252797. nHi to anyone else who may read this message.