The Great Barrier Reef - Finding Nemo

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This trip turned out to be the best and the worst, most awesome and disappointing all at the same time.

I qualified as a scuba diver in Koh Tao with the express purpose of diving on the Great Barrier Reef. Top three on my list to see at the reef were; a turtle, a shark (preferably a reef shark not a great white!) and a little Nemo (a cute little orange and white stripped clown fish made famous by the film Finding Nemo). After my Sydney diving experience, where I lost confidence in the water, I was pretty nervous at going out again. Not to mention all the shark attacks around Australia being publicized in the last month or so. But diving was the reason I had come to Cairns so diving I would do. I booked. The search for Nemo and friends was on.

I’d had a sneak preview of the Barrier Reef as I’d flown into Cairns a few days before. As the plane started to descend the most magnificent sight came into view. Swathes of turquoise stretched out in arcs into the deep navy blue of the Pacific Ocean. I felt like I was watching new islands emerging from the deep, being pushed up from the ocean floor. Spectacular.

The trip was on a boat called Rum Runner; a 2 day one night dive fest was in store, six dives if I could last the pace. I was selfishly glad that out of the 13 passengers only 3 were certified (there were also 3 Japanese people but they had their own instructor). A nice little group suited me perfectly. The other passengers could do introductory dives or snorkel on the trip. It was scorching hot and breathlessly humid when we set off at 7.30 am. I had taken my sea sickness tablet beforehand and had a stash that I would take religiously for the rest of the trip. After some briefings, lunch and a 3 and a half hour battle with the waves we arrived at the first dive site. I was much keener to dive now that the dive masters had removed (quite literally), the main burden of diving; cumbersome and uncomfortable wet suits. They said that they dived in their shorts, no wet suit, and had never been stung, also it would be as warm as bath water in the sea so there was no chance of me getting cold down there. I almost hopped up and down with glee! I slung an old t-shirt over my bikini and I was ready to suit up. The crew looked after all the gear so all I had to do was a few safety checks, pop it all on and stride off the side off the boat into the most beautiful water. It was indeed as warm as bath water and crystal clear to boot.

Emile took the small group on the first guided tour. The four of us descended to 17 meters, the visibility was perfect, I could see clearly for 15 meters easily. The sandy ocean floor came into view, we swam a few meters and a wall of coral appeared, towering above us. It was incredible, just as magical as I’d imagined and hoped. The coral reef is mostly a coral colour, funnily enough, just like I had seen in Koh Tao but here on the Barrier Reef it was a structure rather than a floor covering and it was punctuated with vibrant colours; pale blues, yellows, pinks, and purples in extraordinary shapes and sizes. Dozens of different types of fish darted around the coral. Small humbugs to large parrot fish carried on feeding and chasing each other like we weren’t even there. Glorious. If I’m gushing about the experience it’s because it’s deserved, it’s incredible to see this underwater fish city with the most magnificent backdrop right in front of your eyes. All too soon it was over. No Nemo, shark or turtle this time.

Happy that I’d chosen a trip with so many opportunities to dive we had lunch and moved site for the next two dives. I opted for guided dives even though I felt very relaxed diving on the reef; I still felt I wasn’t experienced enough to tag along with the other two more experienced divers. Matt took me out on the reef. It was the same experience of wonderment each time. I saw yellow pipe fish, Moray eels, angel fish and a ray amongst the scores of different tropical fish. Each time we came back to the boat, another passenger reported that they’d seen turtles and clown fish. I was itching to see one. At least I still had 3 more dives to go.

The last dive of the day was to be a night dive. I’d never done one before and was pretty nervous but up for the challenge. But by 6pm I was feeling awful. Almost like sea sickness but without the sickness. I’d taken my tablets faithfully but the ocean was making the boat lurch the whole time. I took to my bed. At 7 dinner was served, I took 3 mouthfuls then saw the 3 mouthfuls appear again down a toilet. I think I felt even worse as I knew there would be no respite. I was here, on this boat until tomorrow afternoon whether I liked it or not. The skipper (who looked like a blonde Jack Sparrow) said the swell would ease, at midnight! I declined the night dive and slept. It was like sleeping on a bucking bronco, I had to jam my knee against the outer edge of the bed to stop me falling out when the boat lurched. My head would come clean off the pillow as the waves buffeted the boat. My perfect diving trip wasn’t feeling so perfect anymore; in fact I was feeling like it was at an end for me.

I made it through the suffocating heat that night in the bunk and wasn’t sick again although I knew my stomach hadn’t quite decided if it had finished playing up yet. In the morning I skipped the provided breakfast instead opting for a Kwell and water. I saw both again not 5 minutes later this time over the side of the boat. The sea was even choppier now, the swell lifting the boat high on the waves. We all listened to the radio with the skipper. A category 2 cyclone was 150 miles away and heading for Cairns (cyclone Hamish no less!). We would be facing 5 meter waves if we didn’t move. The skies darkened and we could see a wall of black rain in the distance. The crew announced that there’d be time for one last dive though!

We set off for a reef closer to Cairns. I couldn’t even make conversation as I was concentrating hard on not bringing up any internal organs as I retched over the side. I perked up a little momentarily as a tiny dolphin came to check us out. It can only have been about a meter long. The wee thing swam alongside for a minute or two, jumped clear out of the water 4 times then made a sharp right back off into the ocean.

By the time we had reached the dive sight I had declined the last dive of the day. It was torrential rain and I felt it was just too choppy for me. Although it’s calm under the waves I didn’t fancy my chances battling to get back aboard. Rich the instructor was very persuasive. It was my last chance to find Nemo, a turtle and a shark! I donned the bikini and soggy t-shirt and geared up (fighting the queasy feeling as I did so). The water felt even warmer after being buffeted by chilly wind and rain (not Scotland chilly mind you). We descended. I had a great dive. My stomach felt better for the respite from the waves and the fish were abundant.

We found Nemo. I can’t tell you how thrilled I was. Two tiny little clown fish in a pink anemone, it was charming. We hovered and watched them. They never left the anemone, swimming around its tendrils gently waving in the soft sway of the water. I didn’t think fish could be cute, I was wrong.

We surfaced and clambered aboard with some help. The skipper announced that we had to head back to port early just as he thought. Cairns Marina was evacuating boats as a precaution so we were to be dropped off before the crew took the boat to a safer mooring on the river and battened down the hatches so to speak. Three hours later (and another bucking bronco ride) we arrived safely at port.

I need to say that the diving was incredible. A huge highlight for me so far on my travels but I was bitterly disappointed that I didn’t see a turtle and everyone else (yes everyone else) on board did. Two people did see a small shark too. The seasickness took the shine of the rest of the trip to say the least. I could hardly make conversation and took to my bed for the majority of the time. Not exactly the type of experience I was hoping for. I didn’t even take any pictures of the trip as I could hardly function for most of the time.

But I did find Nemo.

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Photos

Nemo and friend found
Picture taken by the guide on my last dive on the Barrier Reef