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Published: October 15th 2008
Havre, MT
Casinos attached to convenience store at the gas stationsYesterday
We left everyone yesterday with just a photo journal of our travel. Just wanted to provide a few catch-up notes on that. If you ever have the chance to drive through Theordore Roosevelt National Park, by all means do so. It is a very worthwhile venture. Medora exists almost solely for tourists so expect the usual touristy things in town but the drive is beautiful and we hope you enjoyed the picture show for yesterday's post.
We had intended to drive up to the North Unit but the Rangers at the South Unit told us the 14 mile ride up there was closed - we would be able to venture in only a couple of miles. It is said to be the more wild of the two units but since we wouldn't be able to drive in very far and that was the only reason we were traveling north on that route, we decided to defer getting to the North Unit, satisifed that the South Unit 36-mile loop drive was an excellent representation and enough to recommend to others to include this in their travels. We had lunch in Medora at a quaint saloon and moved on at
Havre, MT
Casinos attached to hotels a more angular northwest route to US 2 - our road into Glacier.
Arrival - Glacier National Park
Our late night arrival the previous night in Havre, MT caused us a little later start but we knew Glacier was not all that far. We had a hearty western breakfast coupled with some pictures of the casinos that were everywhere - literally. One of today's pictures shows the corner type casinos that dotted the town roads. It was hysterical. Even the place we chose for breakfast had an attached room designated "casino." We got gas before leaving and sure enough, attached to the convenience store was a casino. There was hardly a view of Havre that did not include at least one casino sign. Imagine that all of our Milwaukee corner taverns had a casino room attached -- you get the picture.
Jerry started our drive and almost immediately, commented about how boring this US 2 road was after all he heard about needing to take this wonderfully "scenic" road into Glacier. Rita, of course, simply smiled and said "you'll see." Not too far down the road, Rita pointed out the shadows on the horizon to let him
know that was Glacier National Park. Those who know us best can imagine the chiding going on in the car as Jerry replied those were only clouds. Back and forth we went over miles and other chatter until Jerry could no longer deny that the horizon held something more than clouds. The roadside scenery was also changing as little upshoots of rock type hills showed up. Closer and closer we went, the chatter and chiding become something of the past as the mountains became more than obvious. After a quick stop for gas and water, we turned on to the highway to take us into the park. We met a number of the local animals on or near the road. The car eventually became all but silent except for a periodic "Oh...my...God!" We were not only faced with the initial zoomed views of the Glacier mountains but we were also faced with an unexpected and unforgettable drive. You see, we were driving into Glacier National Park at full fall colors. It was incredible and we know of no English language adjectives to describe it. We have gorgeous fall colors here in Wisconsin but there, with the crisp, clean air, and
Those aren't clouds!
Those are the shadows of the Glacier Mountains in the distance. the awesome mountains behind, the autumn colors brought everything alive. Even Rita, who had been to Glacier NP twenty some years ago, the scene was absolutely breathtaking. We didn't even take all that many pictures of the colors because we were so fully engaged with just looking at them ourselves.
We arrived at the St. Mary's (east side of Glacier) Visitor Center and touched base with Rangers as to the status of Going-to-the-Sun Road and accommodations that were still open in the area. It was disappointing to hear that the road was closed just west of Logan's Pass (the highest point of the road) so there was no driving all the way through. This was their prime construction time to repair any parts of this infamous road - past the busiest of tourist season but before the snow arrived. The Ranger also updated us on the park itself. There were over 300 glaciers at the park's founding in 1910. Today, there are only approximately 150 left. Glaciers eventually receded, that is fact. Their estimate is by 2030, there will not be any glaciers left in the park.
Since we were told Many Glacier Hotel was still one of
the ones open and knowing how many rooms they had, we decided to take our first drive on Going-to-the-Sun Road before dusk. At least we'd be able to take in the road through Logan's Pass and return to find a room for the night. The drive was humbling.
The road was still the two-lane wonder that in parts is just barely wide enough for a car from each direction. There were those that travelled too fast, obviously have traversed the sharp curves and cliff dropping edges on more than one occasion. Then, there were others that should possibly have opted not to drive it themselves given the sometimes dizzying turns and cliffs. We were in the middle group, pulling off at designated places for those wanting to drive more quickly and very patiently, riding behind those that were more pensive drivers. Often, we went many distances without a soul in sight - those were the most treasured. We cannot imagine being here at the height of the summer tourist season. It must be bumper to bumper and the pullouts for awesome views must be very crowded. We had our choice of when and how long to stop at each
because there were enough travelers but never too many to have to bypass a view or be otherwise impacted negatively by the actions of others. It was perfect. So was the weather - we were still in shorts and t-shirts.
Jerry actually let Rita drive - a welcome surprise. The drive starts at 4,484 ft and climbs to 6,646 ft at Logan's Pass. It was the first Jerry would be in high enough altitude of concern so we took it carefully. He could not stop himself from exiting the car during periodic stops at spectacular viewpoints. He could feel the higher altitude moreso than the standard traveler but at no time felt anything but awe-inspired by what lay in front, behind, and to either side. At the road's highest point, though definitely short of breath with just a few steps, his portable air concentrator gave him the oxygen concentration to thoroughly enjoy something he said he never imagined he'd see or experience. Thank heaven for modern science as this trip, this road, these views, were so high on Jerry's bucket list, it would have been excruciating had he been unable to take it all in. It is impossible to
describe the feelings we had together at this particular moment, standing at the point the road closed, just on the other side of the road's highest point, taking in every smell, every cloud, every tree, cliff, and rock, knowing that truly, there but by the grace of God we were. Perhaps it was not meant to be described - - it was a very personal, inspiring moment for both of us. We had not only arrived but were completely immersed. Standing arm in arm, our hearts linked, our minds in synch, no words were needed and none were spoken.
All great things must come to an end eventually. We knew it was time to take the return drive. It was a quieter ride going down and fewer stops though one could hardly avoid some stops just because the sun had gone further to the horizon, creating much different perspectives on the very mountains we had seen going up. It was like a different drive altogether rather than a return trip. As we passed the last lookout at Gull Island, we knew we had experienced something incredible and it was now a memory nobody would ever be able to take
away from us. This would be one of life's very treasured moments in time for us.
Hotel Choice Gone Bad
Some of the best plans need change and after checking into the Many Glacier Hotel, a selection Rita had made based on her trip years ago, it was obvious the large but rustic lodge type environment was not a good choice given Jerry's special circumstances. There was no air-conditioning, an elevator that was at least a block away from both reception and our room on the third floor, and the room itself, quite inadequate for Jerry's comfort. So, we un-checked in with many apologies and started a drive in search of a better choice. It was a learning experience and notes were made for future hotel selections so we'd ask more appropriate questions upfront. We had lost two hours in an already later day and faced the potential of having to drive over a hundred miles around to the west side of Glacier where hotel options were more prevalent, the greater part of which would be in the dark. It would not be an easy drive. We stopped at what we believed our only hope on this side
A turn on to a different road
Seems to take us further away again but actually goes to the park entrance of Glacier - St. Mary Lodge & Resort. Again we felt all the prayers and positive thoughts of family and friends as we found they had a more than adequate room. It was right at the entrance to Glacier National Park. The only drawback was no Internet in the room - only at the main lodge in another building. That was very obviously not a showstopper (duh)!! To say we were relieved would be an understatement.
We had dinner immediately following check-in and then got outselves settled into the room. It was not long before it was lights out for both of us. It was an exhausting but glorious day. We'd finalize plans in the morning when rested and ready to take on another day.
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