Mercury Rising and All Bets are Off

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High temperatures have prompted authorities to issue warnings stating that activity anytime other than the early morning hours could be dangerous. You know, I thought we were really going to enjoy this break from the open road, lounging around in a temperature controlled environment but claustrophobia is quickly setting it. Temperatures here reached up to 116F (47C) yesterday and have reached record highs throughout the southwest. Not quite hot enough to fry an egg (yes, we tried) but pretty darn close. What a perfect summer for a cross-country road trip—record gasoline prices and record heat waves! Talk about good timing.

Last we wrote we were waking up in the cool, shady groves of San Juan National Forest. Originally we were going to spend some time down around the four-corners area, but as the landscape rolled on and on and on we decided to keep on driving straight through the night and surprise Andras' mother with an early arrival. We did make the requisite stop at Four-Corners Monument to stand in four states (Arizona, Utah, New Mexico, Colorado) at once and browse through the crafts on display, but it wasn't that impressive. Really what are state lines than just arbitrary political boundaries? If there had been any distinguishing feature in the land---a river, a mountain, anything at all--the state boundaries wouldn't have intersected at perfect right angles so that the fact that they do is really a testament to how un-noteworthy the four-corners area actually is. But boat-loads of RV'ers and people just like us drive on through, hand over their money and snap a photo, which I didn't even bother with. In retrospect, the money from our entrance fee goes towards social services that the tribes out here really do need (better healthcare, education) and even though it's not our fault they live out here, it kinda is the 19th century American governments' and I suppose we have inherited their guilt, fair or not. So in that light, the $3 or $6 or whatever we paid isn't such a burden. Plus we bought an amazingly beautiful vase from the artisan himself and snacked on some tasty Navajo fry-bread.

After that, the day more or less...stagnated, not unlike the scenery and the swelting air that (barely) circulated through the car the rest of the day. My usual standby description for barren landscapes is to describe the horizen to horizen stretch of dirt that fills my field of vision, but out here there's not even a top soil. A thin layer of sand eroded off the sandstone harbors shallow rooted grasses but other than that....nothing. There is nothing out here to survive on. Crops won't grow. It's an unreasonable distance from most services and amenities. It's not surprising that this is the land the government set aside for multiple reservations--it offers no desired resources and therefore had no appreciable purpose other than serving as a holding-pen. Periodically we'll spot a tall sandstone monument in the distance--spires and peaks rising up from nothing. The more notable sandstone features are further north. The rest of the drive doesn't merit much comment, so I"ll sum it up in a sentence. We picniced in Flagstaff, took a "short cut" through Sedona that added several more hours to our drive, and were very, very lucky to find a gas-station open past 9pm.

And so for the past few days we've been sweating it out with Andras' mom in Quartzsite , home of the world's largest gem and mineral show. That, of course, takes place in February when the whether is cooler and retirees from all over the northern states descend upon this area in droves bringing the population from several thousand to upwards of several million. Once spring hits, all bets are off and everyone flies back up north earning them the appropriate nickname "snowbirds." Only the real die-hards stay for the summer to keep things running smoothly although most restaurants and shops are closed, so for all practical purposes, we have the place to ourself. On the Fourth of July we ventured out to the park's picnic shelter for some socialization and a spread of traditional Independance Day cuisine--hot dogs, hamburgers and free watermelon! It was absolutely delicious and I did not hesitate for one second to let the sweet, sticky watermelon juice run all over my fingers and face. Someone had set up some water-pipes along the roof with holes cut to mist water over guests which is where most of the congregating took place. We didn't stay to watch the fireworks, but we didn't need to. I think we had plenty of festivity during the day.

Other than that, we'll probably continue to languish in the living room, watching re-runs and trying to stay hydrated (despite the odd slick soapy flavor some of the water has after being reverse osmosis-ed. Is that a word?). Nothing rusts out here so there is plenty of "second-hand treasure" to browse through and we'll probably pay a visit to the naked book-store owner before all it said and done (Andras has been eyeing a collection of Shakespeare). And hey, the local library has free internet access! Before you know it we'll be picking my father up from the airport in Pheonix and heading to the Grand Canyon for our first monumental hike. Wish us luck!

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Photos

Saguaro Cactus
Symbol of the Southwestern Desert

Sunset near Sedona
Hadn't planned on seeing the sunset from the road (so much for the short-cut) but it certainly is spectacular.

Hot Enough to Fry an Egg?
Not quite, but pretty close! I have a feeling if we left the pan out a little longer we might have the makings of breakfast...

Navajo Reservation
Monuments in the distance.

Cactus in the Sun
I think this is a young Cholla cactus, but cannot be sure.

Saguaro Fruit
Though they look like blooms, the red "petals" are actuallly fruits that have burst open.

Comments

[Joseph]

I love reading these! I can't wait for the next one. And you know, I really do think you should turn this into a book. You could even publish one yourself with Snapfish, Kodak, Apple, etc. If I were perusing in a bookstore, I would totally buy it.

[Janice]

If you ever pull all these together into a book, I would buy it in a heartbeat. I have been reading all our blogs and tryly feel I have taken this journey with you across the country. Having no feeling from the waste down makes it impossible for me to travel, but you have given me such a gift. Keep traveling and writing.

[Stephanie and Andras]

Thanks for your kind words! It very gratifying to know that our efforts go a little way towards brighten someones day. Cheers - Stephanie and Andras