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Published: April 26th 2012
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Muhammad Ali Mosque in the Citadel
Salah al Din began the Citadel’s construction in the 12th century. The fortified structure continued to expand, and remain a seat of different ruling dynasties, until the 19th century. Day one in Cairo: Got caught in a swarm of men running with batons while I foolishly walked around Tahrir Square at midnight. Day two: Went to a bizarre party where young activists veiled themselves and got drunk as a way of mocking the Muslim Brotherhood. Day seven: Joined thousands of peaceful demonstrators in Tahrir Square for the Jan.25 anniversary of the Egyptian revolution. Their presence was a clear sign that the revolution was still unfinished.
That is how my first week in Egypt in mid-January 2012 left me weary, inspired, curious, and most importantly, hooked! I stayed for three months when my intention was to stay for two.
Cairo is very charismatic though sometimes it is hard to figure out why. Of the expats living here, some find it overwhelming and leave. Those who stay complain about the noise, traffic, insecurity, and never-ending scams against foreigners. In the end though, those sticking around tend to say, “but I love Cairo.” I definitely belong to the latter group.
Perpetual dust dictates Cairo’s golden brown color. Trash is scattered everywhere with cigarette butts adorning the city floor. Pigeons flock the skies while dogs, donkeys, horses, sheep, and even camels
Sinai
Near Dahab lazily roam the metropolis. Crowded streets buzz with honking cars, swerving motorcycles, vendors dragging carts full of colorful fruits, vegetables, roasted sweet potatoes, and toasted nuts, pedestrians making their way through the jungle of vehicles, and of course, occasional donkeys vigorously pulling cargo and running for their lives.
The only time the street noise seems momentarily dimmed is when the sound of the muezzin’s call to prayer overtakes all the rest. In the “City of a Thousand Minarets,” as Cairo is called because of its numerous mosques, no other sound can compete. Men everywhere—on sidewalks, rooftops, in gas stations, and mosques—stop whatever they are doing to pray. Only on Friday mornings does Cairo feel still, nearly transformed into a wholly different city.
I felt an immediate connection to Cairo because it reminded me of Iran’s capital city of Tehran, where I spent my elementary school years. Cairo’s streets were dirtier, the men more aggressive in their stares, extreme poverty more visible and pervasive, and the buildings a different shade of brown than those of the Tehran of my childhood, but the two cities share a similar essence (and traffic problem!). Their energy is contagious and the interactions of
their residents deeply human, full of humor and life. I came at a time when even at the peak of frustrations with the revolution’s direction—the level of optimism fluctuated as quickly as the political landscape and Egyptians, like Iranian, are no strangers to conspiracy theories—hope and agency were easily detectable. No matter how firmly my friends believed that counterrevolutionary forces and members of the old guard were manipulating the revolution, their confidence in a better Egypt, in the long term, was clear.
Personal Safety Egypt’s security situation was my biggest concern before arriving and I found myself always evaluating, perhaps sometimes pushing, the boundaries of personal safety. I never faced serious harassment or danger. Maybe the fact that I look Egyptian helped. Or maybe I just got lucky.
According to official reports, tourism in Egypt plummeted 30 percent in the year following the January 2011 revolution. Unofficial figures record an even higher drop. As the Port Said fiasco, Maspero massacre, and clashes on Muhamed Mahmoud Street demonstrated, violence can explode anywhere, at anytime—and in a matter of seconds. I have heard many reasons as to why security enforcement in Egypt has deteriorated and armed robberies,
Alexandria
This port city, built by Alexander the Great, has a rich history. There’s a certain romantic calm in the city that can be instantly felt, especially when coming from noisy Cairo. Unfortunately many buildings are decaying and though cleaner than Cairo, the city is falling apart. car thefts, and even petty crimes increased (one of my friends had his car stolen). Who knows which theories are true and to what extent but the reality is that almost all Caironese I talked to, be it taxi drivers or those living in upscale districts, feel the insecurity. “Cairo never used to be like this,” one girl told me, “now I’m afraid to drive alone at night.”
Despite a surge in crimes, Cairo still felt safer, if not as safe, than some other popular tourist destinations that I have visited, including Buenos Aires. When walking the streets alone, I felt that I could rely on the communities around me for protection. I never worried about having my belongings stolen. Petty crime in Cairo, even now, does not occur as much as in places like Rome and Barcelona. But Cairo is supposedly safer than other parts of Egypt where a security breakdown is more pronounced. For me, knowing that the environment could be unpredictable was more daunting than the actual challenges I faced exploring the traffic (and male)-laden streets as a lone female.
Outside Cairo I did travel outside of Cairo, including to Sinai (Sina),
Alexandria, and Luxor. All three places have their own charm. Sinai’s dazzling beaches become filled with tourists during the warmer months, many of whom, including me, stay in huts along the Red Sea, drinking bear and enjoying the company of passing musicians. On calm days the sea looks like a thin sheet of glass covering pastel and neon colored beds of coral. The color contrast between the desert and the sea is truly beautiful.
Alexandria is a decaying gem while Luxor is the hub of monuments and remnants of ancient Egyptian history. Luxor is known as the hassle capital of Egypt because it is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the country. There, the dramatic drop in Egypt’s tourism is most evident. When my cousin and I visited Luxor, the normally bustling town was nearly empty of its tourists. Good for us. It meant that we were the first people—and for a good half an hour the only ones—to enter the Valley of the Kings early one morning. But it also meant that we could not walk two steps without being approached by someone offering goods or services. People were desperate for work.
Thanks to the
advice of a friend living in Dubai, I have learned to make use of a fake Persian accent in the Middle East. Somehow Iranians get better discounts in the Middle East than westerners—whether because we are automatically accepted as “insiders” or because we have a reputation for bargaining and vendors rather save themselves the trouble. Who knows. But unfortunately the trick that had worked wonders in Dubai, Palestine, and Jordan, did not guarantee better prices in Egypt. I faced tough opponents, especially in Luxor. Egyptian vendors often got excited upon hearing that I was Iranian. But that is as far as the special treatment went.
The following brief interaction between my frustrated cousin and a carriage conductor in Luxor, who persistently followed us around for a long time trying to sell us a ride around town, for me summed up the humor and zest that is just so Egypt:
Cousin: Go away or I’ll call the police! Conductor: It’s ok. I take you to the police station. Only two pound. Gotta respect the persistence!
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