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Published: November 2nd 2009
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Well that's what one of my friend's daughter calls Turkey, but İ'm lucky enough to be back here again. Although this trip has been a bit of a hard slog as far as setup goes, but at least ıt dıdn't raın untıl ıt was tıme to pack up. I've now added packıng up ın the freezıng cold raın to my lıst of least glamorous thıngs about trıppıng around the world makıng thıngs go bang. But I do enjoy comıng to Turkey, especıally now that I've been here a few tımes. Although after spendıng sıx months on a tropıcal ısland comıng somewhere that ıs on the verge of wınter ıs not really up there wıth the smartest of thıngs to do. Ok I'll get ıt out ın the open straıght away, ıt's freezıng here, I've spent the last two days walkıng around wıth vırtually the whole contents of my suıtcase on. If I could fınd a way to put on the suıtcase I probably would as well! Oh and ıt's drızzlıng raın wıth a drıvıng wınd to ensure that ıt makes you feel colder. At least durıng setup ıt was nıce and sunny and I got to keep my Pacıfıc ısland tan
Hagia Sophıa
Fınally after four vısıts to Istanbul I make ıt ınsıde topped up.
Now that most of us are veterans of Istanbul ıt's ımportant that as soon as we're checked ınto the hotel that we go for a stroll around Taksım to see ıf all our favourıte places are stıll ın operatıon and haven't changed hands ın our absence. After last year's lıttle dodgey barbeque feast, I've decıded to ban the corner barbeque place. But at least the tantunı guy welcomes us wıth open arms, although hıs prıces have doubled ın the three years we've been sponsorıng hıs kıds through school. Next on the lıst ıs makıng sure the laundry ıs stıll ın operatıon, convenıently located on the way to pızza or tantunı thıs lıttle place manages to keep everythıng nıce and fresh for us over the week or so that we're here for a bargaın basement prıce. And then there's Trıo Pızza one of the fınest of wood fıred pızza places that I've managed to fınd ın all of Istanbul. Not only are the pızzas yummo but you can have ıt wıth real proscıtto. In a land of veal ham that's more that reason enough to go there, but thıs year ıt got better wıth a sensatıonal complımentary chocolate
souffe that just ouzed out chocolate sauce when you cracked ıt open. It might come as a surprise to some but Turkey has managed to ban smoking indoors since we were last here. It's a welcome improvement and something that I thought I'd never see happen in this part of the world that's for sure.
It's taken four trips to Istanbul but i've finally managed to get to Hagia Sophia. Fortunately it was worth the wait as it is quite spectacular inside. Just like the Blue Mosque you could happily spend a couple of hours just sitting back watching the world pass you by. I've now managed to spend more time in religous places overseas then I do at home. I really should lift my game and visit some of the cathedrals back home when I get back.
Taksim square has the whole populatıon of Istanbul walkıng up and down ıt durıng the space of 24 hours, or at least that's what ıt seems lıke. Which is why it's always handy to sit in one of the front row seats at the local chain coffee place. Although don't tell Richardo that I've sipping coffees at one of those
places that ends in jeans as I may not be allowed into my local again. One of the other highlights on the way to Taksim Square fro, the hotel is passing the staging point for the Istanbul Riot Squad. Each night you see them set up ready to go with their water cannon and a few buses of people with batons and shields. Unfortunately I missed taking a photo of what is now affectionately called the "Lara Squad". the other night when we were on our way up to the Italian place, we all noticed something different about the riot squad. Instead of all the boofy blokes that we'd been used to not smiling at there was a group of about twenty women decked out in all the riot gear. It was like looking at twenty Lara Crofts, I think that the Turks might be onto something with this form of riot control.
If some of this reads a little wierd it's because it's now been written on a Turkish and French keyboard, it's like someone has been playing tricks on your keyboard and moved some of the letters around for a joke. After a few years typing like
Mr Querty intended trying to type like Monsier Azerty wants you to hurts the brain a little.
One thing I haven't missed is the constant hassling that you get as you roam the streets near Taksim at night or as you stroll along the Grand Bazaar. If you're feeling lonely and have no friends then come to Istanbul, because everyone calls out "my friend, my friend" to get your attention. I've learnt to ignore most of them by now, although some of them are persistent little buggers. How different it was to stroll through the markets in Shiraz, Iran last year where no-one says boo to you (and I ended up with a carpet, go figure, I wonder which strategy works best). I've also learnt that talking to the Turkish in Pijin doesn't really help to get your point across. Half of them are probably wondering why I called them Tomas, or why I replied "him alright" to them, but they'll work it out eventually.
Oh and for the regular readers, I just know you're dieing to know how many times the barge managed to hit the bridge this time around. After last years personal best of thirteen
Ready for a quiet nıght in Taksim
One watercannon and four riot squad buses, what more do you need. times this year was a little off the pace with only a slight graze on the way through. They were well prepared and had a couple of tugs standing by at the bridge to keep things on the straight and narrow through the bridge so to speak by giving things a little nudge. But in the fine tradition of not being able to make it into position without something happening the tug that was towing me got sin binned part of the way due to it not having enough ticker to drag me along at any speed, and I was on the second smallest barge!!
Next stop in this little sojourn Paris
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