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Published: October 8th 2023
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Of the many places we visited in Turkey when we lived here, one we did
notsee was Cappadocia (propounced Kapa-do-kee-ah). Sharon and I both were anxious to see this region of the country, which as it turns out, looks a lot like the American southwest. It is a high desert region, with dry scrub plains bordered by huge mesas. This region gets a lot of snow in the winter because of its elevation. The snowmelt caused erosion of the mesas which produces the unique carved topography. The mesas were formed millions of years ago by a volcanic eruption which left layers of soil that compacted into semi-soft, carvable rock.
It is this rock that allowed the creation of hundreds of underground cities. We visited one which has been made into a museum, safe for visitor access. The cities were been built over a period of centuries, but Derinkuyu was started somewhere around 800 BC by the Phrygians. They were a Christian (Greek Orthodoxy) people so among the hundreds of rooms in the complex are dozens of churches. The tunnels and rooms were expanded over the centuries and their use changed as threats of invasions occurred. At times they were simply
used as storage facilities. Each family, having its own chambers, custom carved them for their crops. They would store potatoes, fruit, peppers, legumes, hay, corn and other grains, etc. Because the temperature and humidity stay constant, little spoilage occurred. The rooms could be converted quickly for refuge from invasions. Entire families could remain hidden in the chambers for months. Water was sourced from a central well, cooking could be done in several central cooking areas. Fresh air circulated through the natural upwelling of cooling air from lower parts of the system. At every entrance, there were dozens, was it’s own “parking area” for the animals. Horses were used to carry bags of crops and they were tied up at a manger to eat while the owner carried produce down into their storage chamber.
This method of natural storage is so efficient that the country uses its still today. Just about every mountain we passed had huge warehouse door openings for trucks. Potatoes and other produce for the ENTIRE country are brought here for storage for up to a year from harvest.
After visiting the underground city, we were taken to a caravansary. These were spaced across the country,
about a day's distance apart if on camel or horse. The advent of motor cars made them unnecessary so many of them have been converted for other purposes. Back in its day, the caravansaries were free to use, and many constructed by the sultans to encourage trade across boarders. We were treated to a Whirling Dervish ceremony. The event, is a replication of the entire 20,000 line prayer/poem by Julaluddin Rumi in the 13th century. It has several sections, each depicted in a different way within the music and recitation. The whiling comes from the meditative aspect of reaching the depths of prayer connection. B because this is a religious ceremony and not a show, no pictures/video are permitted but they do give a 2-3 minute opportunity at the end to capture a few pictures. It was very moving to watch, but I really wish I had the words of the prayer to follow while watching.
Then we were taken to another very unique part of region, the Uçisar (Uchisar) Castle. It’s a stone “castle” dotted with more rooms which was initially a monastery, then inhabited by families until the 1950’s. The government asked them to leave the cave
houses because occasional collapses resulted in deaths. Alternative housing was provided and the place became a national monument. Our hotel, Kale Konak, was part of the original complex of cave rooms and family dwellings. Partially built into the mountain, it was the most unique experience. Pictures of our room are in the photos.
Tomorrow will include tours of the Cappadocia valley.
All for now!
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