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Middle East » Jordan » South » Wadi Rum November 5th 2017

Meet Camelus Dromedarius. Lest you get confused. Camelus Bactrianus is not Camelus Dromedarius. Arabian camels are not Bactrian camels, but are Dromedarian i.e the ONE -humped camel of the HOT deserts of northern Africa and southwestern Asia. Whereas the camel with two humps Bactrianus is native to the COLD deserts of the steppes of Asia. Hot or cold, they share the same fate of being used as saddle animals and beasts of burden as they can stand up to life in the desert because of that hump which stores food - not water - They can live for a month from the stored fat. Water...they can drink 40 gallons in 14 minutes. Camels can reach 7 feet in height (at the hump) and weigh up to 1500 pounds. Dromedarians can live for 40 years, the female ... read more
waiting for us near the Lawrence Spring camel trough
Watering stop for ages
Jack Sparrow our camel herd driver at Lawrence Spring

Middle East » Jordan » South » Petra November 5th 2017

We have the whole day to explore Petra at our leisure. Our driver collects us after breakfast and suggests he takes us to the back (the tradesman’s entrance) rather than the Tourist front entrance. We wonder if he’s saying this because it’s more convenient for him. But he’s right again. He drops us at the top of the hill and we walk down into Petra. We are alone apart from the occasional Bedouin riding his camels/donkeys/horses to work. The road is lined with caves and ancient carvings. We have a lovely day exploring Petra, have a picnic sitting on a rock at the top of the Siq, then head for the meeting point to pick up our coach to Eilat. The group have had problems at the border and only 20 minutes in Petra. It’s a ... read more
Rock that looks like an elephant
Road to Petra
Donkeys

Middle East » Jordan » South » Petra November 4th 2017

Today we are going to Petra. We have decided against independent travel and booked a tour. I’m not really a tour person - I don’t have the patience for other people. We leave our hotel for the 7 am pick up. The car is late and only takes us to a meeting point to wait for our bus. By the time the bus arrives, it is in an hour since we left our hotel and we can still see it. We take the bus to the border. One group member has issues with Israeli Immigration and we must wait. It is now 2 hours since we left our hotel and we can still see it. At Jordanian Immigration two group members have problems and we have to wait again. By the time we board our Jordanian ... read more
First view of the Treasury
Siq
Siq (2)

Middle East » Jordan » South » Wadi Rum November 1st 2017

Our Bedouin camp at Wadi Rum. October 19th the final adventure. We are leaving the remains of ancient desert nomads behind to join living nomads inhabiting the desert today. From the Nabataeans to the Bedouin. They inhabit Wadi Rum which is also a UNESCO world heritage site. A 'Wadi' is the valley of a dry river hence Petra is in Wadi Musa. The &Rum& part I don't know about! Mind you, many of the men there could be family to Pirates from the Caribbean.... looking little Jack Sparrows, so who knows.......! ? Our driver was funny, fast talking, good natured with a thick accent. He obliged us by making photo stops as we left Petra. The desert landscape continues to impress and stun me. Who knew that barren land could be so varied... rock types and ... read more
Our team of hosts
camel watering trough at Lawrence Spring
Another landmark named for Lawrence of Arabia

Middle East » Jordan » South » Petra October 30th 2017

Now Petra. October 18th. This is the big day when at last we will visit Petra the rose red city "half as old as time". Here nature and man together carved awesome works of impressive grandeur 2000 years ago.That thriving city, capital of the Kingdom of the Nabataeans, was then ravaged by earthquake and time, being lost for a thousand years until its “rediscovery” (I. E. to the west) through duplicity and intrigue in 1812. Planning to visit? Then understand this. This city sprawls for many miles. It spans over 60 square km. You will walk and walk and walk and walk and then walk back and back and back and back. If you don’t walk you can take a beast of burden a camel, donkey, horse. We chose not to. So we walked and walked ... read more
The sheer height of the cliff face is intimidating to put it mildly
Rocks of all colours
Petra has many shapes and faces in the rocks

Middle East » Jordan » South » Petra October 28th 2017

PETRA . Long awaited much anticipated. Tuesday October 17th. Today we travel toward one of the main highlights of my entire journey, the ancient Rose red city carved out of rocks by the the Nabataean people. Petra. My mother had enthused me with her rapture over its beauty. Now, post mortem, I carried her portrait so that she could visit the city which she never saw but loved so much. While en route I'd arranged with a driver for us to visit three important tourist spots in Jordan: MADABA with its renowned Byzantine mosaics, Mt NEBO of Moses' Promised Land fame and the DEAD SEA a global phenomenon with water so salt your body floats effortlessly. The driver was part of a transport package I'd negotiated with Solayman of the Wadi Rum Sky Bedouin camp. One ... read more
Madaba Mosaic Map
Byzantine mosaics abound in Madaba
Another floor mosaic in excellent condition after 1500 years

Middle East » Jordan » South » Aqaba May 28th 2017

Greetings fellow wanderers - I believe I have a recommendation for you....! Well, actually, this is probably going to sound achingly familiar, but for a trip to Jordan, as compact a nation as it is, splitting a week-long trip between northern and southern Jordan seems like a perfect strategy, right? Whatever the case might be, in terms of your perceptions, this trip kicked off in Aqaba, a coastal town, Jordan's one and only, signified the first leg of the tour, and a chance to see one or two treasures of the region. The period being Ramadan, an eerie sense of tranquility pervaded to the extent of this being something of a ghost town, at least compared to the vibrant buzz of Aqaba at its busiest. A couple of attractions lined the way, namely the majesty of ... read more
A yacht harbour (Aqaba; Jordan)
The Treasury (Petra; Jordan)
Tranquility! (Wadi Rum; Jordan)

Middle East » Jordan » South » Petra May 5th 2017

Middle East and Mediterranean Marvels - Spring 2017 Time to head back to my favorite region of the world - to cavort in the sands of the Persian Gulf before beginning my next adventure – this time on the high Seas of the Arabian, the Red and the Mediterranean for the next few weeks. Today I leave for the airport at 8am, definitely a pleasant change from my usual zero-dark-thirty departure time; I even get to sleep in until daylight. The big blue chariot awaits outside and with my bag in the back, we are off to McCarran. Fast and efficient as always with the priority lane and I speed thru TSA security like a whirlwind – Delta sure pampers their elite flyers. First leg halfway around the globe is cross country to New York, and ... read more
desert sands
Grand Mosque at night
Grand Mosque Courtyard

Middle East » Jordan » South March 17th 2017

Having been fortunate enough to have visited most of the world's great tourist attractions over the years, Petra had risen right to the top of my 'bucket list'. My concern was whether the expectation had resulted in perhaps my 'lifting the bar' a bit too high. It hadn't! Petra was without a doubt the highlight of my trip. As predicted, the southern border crossing from Eilat in Israel to Aqaba in Jordan (the Wadi Araba crossing) was very pain free, and we were basically through both sides in around half an hour. The drive north to Petra took a couple of hours through pretty desolate country, except when we passed the outskirts of the famed Wadi Rum on our right-hand side, where huge sandstone and granite rocks suddenly sprung up out of the desert, with shapes ... read more
A section of the Siq
The Street of Facades
Salmon coloured stratified rock

Middle East » Jordan » South » Petra October 22nd 2016

What a trip! Definitely a memorable hike! It started for me when Shai (Shai Bytner, a great tour guide) messaged me: “Hi Ben, would you like to join a group as rappelling guide to Wadi Fayed?” Well, duh! Of course I would! Despite the short notice, and despite the fact that I just got back from a hike to the Golan the evening before (see my blog: https://www.travelblog.org/Middle-East/Israel/North-District/Golan/blog-949438.html). So I got home from the Golan, unpacked, repacked and Amichai (Amichai Spector http://www.spectours.co.il) brought all the group’s rappelling and cooking equipment directly to my car. Early the next morning Avi joined me and we started on our way towards Eilat. On the way we picked up Shai and then drove down to the Rabin border crossing, j... read more
Sandstone crevasse
Rappelling
Fan-toed gecko




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