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Published: February 12th 2009
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One of those groups of historical peoples that failed to get a mention in any of the history books we have encountered are the tribal Nabataeans. Picture a small empire built up out of the lucrative proceeds of controlling the camel pack-train trade routes through the deserts of what is now Jordan. If it had not been for the growing influence of the spreading Roman Empire around 200AD, they would have continued to expand their incredible ability to carve stunning building facades out of the soft sandstone rock faces of their capital Petra.
Undeniably one of Jordans outstanding attractions, Petra had us spending one massive afternoon just walking from one end to the other and back, gobsmacked by the artistry of their architecture. The 'Treasury' is one of those buildings that contests the 7 wonders of the world, but is just one of a handful of constructions from the Nabataeans - and their more crude additions by the usurping Romans. But following the main route in Petra was only a fraction of the fun. Armed with a 2-day ticket, we were ready to explore every minor trail we cold find, and clambered our way to exhaustion over cliffs, ridges and
Local
These Bedouin kids were part of the local community eeking out a living on farming and tourism. This girl was really sweet. valleys finding unthinkably good views of the best Petra had to offer. It is one of those world class sites, with the added twist that there are no ropes and no guards whistles telling you to get off. Attempting to find a way down to the valley from a ridge, we ended up getting caught at the top end of the ancient Amphitheatre and having to walk over its ancient steps carved into the hillside. Fully expecting to be told off like naughty little schoolboys, we were instead direced to walk over an ancient arch that is still intact as this was the easiest way down. Having the freedom to explore this magnificent site was one of its charms.
But of course there is a line of respect that tourists draw differently. A bunch of Arabic menfolk thought that writing their names on an ancient wall was acceptable, and an American tourist thought having his photo taken while standing on one of Petra's prize ancient buildings (and very fragile buildings) was 'really cool'.
One of those unexpected but momentous moments in travel is the time when you meet that one song that defines the occasion. Being driven down
Anthem time
Our exuberant host hit the musical sweet spot with this group participation rendition of Ali Baba. Magic moment, which started a quest to find a copy of this legendary track. to Petra by our wonderful hostel host (Hotel Cleopetra - highly recommended), he flicked on the stereo and started singing and dancing to a classic Saudi Arabian song 'Ali Baba' from behind the wheel. Once he started getting the words all wrong, we joined in to really murder the poor song, and an anthem was born in that beautiful moment.
So after two days of Petra, we were relieved to sit in a car while it whisked us off to the deserts of Wadi Rum. T.E. Lawrence, better known as Lawrence of Arabia. Perhaps the term 'British-born terrorist' would be a modern take on his activities, but this desert was his temporary home for the years he was involved in the bringing on the Arab revolt.
The desert was spectacular, with its rugged rocky mountains emerging from the dry seabed of sand and rock. We were driven into the desert on the back of an equally ancient Toyota Land Cruiser, the dubious engine tuning having been performed just after the demise of the Roman empire. Lacking the intuitive ability to communicate in Arabic, we were dropped off at various places of interest. If in doubt about what we
Rocky Mountain
So why don't we climb it?? were supose to be looking at, we just climbed the hills to look out on this mystical desert fading off into the dusty distance. But between mountainous dryness, sand ramps, natural stone bridges, Lawrence's house, Lawrence's water spring from a cave up a mountainside and of course a stop for billy tea - we kept ourselves particularly busy. Arriving at our Bedouin camp tents for late afternoon, we had some time to kill before dinner. With the Petra bug well established to 'see what is just over that hill/ridge/corner', we couldn't sit still, and had to climb the nearby mountain to see the sunset. The eroded rock faces made interesting ascending, but it wasn't till we tried to come down that we realized how tricky it was. But the view from the top was outstanding, and we belted out a round of Ali Baba with criminal lack of talent from on high (emotionally and physically).
The greatest pleasure of all however was after finishing a communal tourist dinner, with a few tunes from our Bedouin host's lye/sitar/guitar thing. While we were contemplating an early night, the flicker of a fire across a small snady expanse from the camp, and
Dinner time
This is the most awesome way to have dinner - communally. the sound of singing gave away the real party - a few of our hosts had parked up around a fire at the base of an overhanging cliff with the tea pot. And it was all on. Clapping, clicking, dancing, singing - Bedouin style. Imagine our surprise when 'Ali Baba' rocked forth in true desert fashion. Legendary.
Heftily fortified with sweet and warm tea and a camp fire, we were thoroughly unprepared for literally freezing temperatures hunkered under one blanket in the tent. Lacking in sleep, but enormously enriched by our desert interlude, there was little to do, but leave this magic place to its wonderfully colourful inhabitants, and blast North for the unexpected delights of Syria.
Jordan was a last minute destination for us, so one we were very unprepared for just how fantastic it was going to be for us. An enormous Thank you to all the colourful people, and warm welcomes we received through this delightful country.*
Adios, amigos.
* Excludes two taxi divers.
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Ryan
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I know exactly what u mean when u thought the guy would go all egyptian on u. my gf and i were in egypt before going to Jordan and everyone wanted a tip for every stupid thing! Jordan, the people were so much more accomadating and honest.