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Middle East » Iran » West » Esfahan February 10th 2016

Next stop in my little Iran tour, the jewel of Esfahan. I took the 7 hours local bus from Shiraz to Esfahan. The bus was scheduled for 6am, we left at 6.45am. The bus ride was comfortable, less than 4usd for a 7 hours ride. The restroom stop was...by a local mosque, which is a first for me. And one more time, amazing people. Not many tourists do venture independently to Iran today, even less seem to take local long-distance buses....so you end up meeting people, and even when they don't speak English, they are super friendly! Visiting any place on a National day, and you face the issues of closed places such as museums or other sites. I arrived in Esfahan just after lunch time. I knew most mosques do close here by 4pm on ... read more
Beautiful Si-o-Seh bridge
I like when they stopped to ask me what I tought of what was happening!
Beautiful Naqsh-e Jahan Iman Square

Middle East » Iran » West » Esfahan September 29th 2015

The Persian proverb "Esfahan is half of the world" (which if Google translate has worked is what the title of this blog says in Farsi) is hyperbole but it is a spectacular place with a huge square, many mosques, palaces, bridges, and a fantastic bazaar. Where it definitely isn't half the world is in restaurants – perhaps the biggest challenge we faced during our days there was finding something local to eat, one night we even resorted to pizza and a Subway style sandwich ffs !!! True to form the people were friendly, chatty and hospitable, inviting us for tea even when they weren't trying to sell us something or when we told them we weren't going to buy anything – despite Esfahani's being known for their selling skills and fondness for money. We did though ... read more
Imam Mosque
Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque
Sheihk Lotfollah Mosque

Middle East » Iran » West » Esfahan July 23rd 2015

Geo: 32.68, 51.68Giving up on our Chinese visas yet again we head south, to theoretically calmer but hotter conditions. Camped out the first night and woke up to a flat tyre. Darren pulled a large lump of metal out of the tyre and plugged the hole and we were off and racing. Stopped enroute to visit a kashan which is an old traditional village that had been continuously occupied for 2500 years. Wow it is hard to get your head around exactly how old stuff is here.The town was nondescript however once we found the Bazaar we were in for a treat, it was not full of the normal tourist crap found in the larger cities. It also had some very interesting pools of water under large overhead curved roofs that were very efficiently cooling the ... read more
Village Street View
Looking very local
Granny on her Donkey

Middle East » Iran » West » Esfahan June 14th 2015

Keskiviikko 10.6. Isfahan L pysyi hereillä koneeseen asti, vaikka lento lähti vasta klo 23. Nousussa kyllä tipahti ja nukkui koko matkan. J diilasi meille kaks penkkiriviä, joten lapset sai hyvin nukkumaan. Me ei silti nukuttu oikeastaan ollenkaan. Herätettiin huomiota koneessa ja portilla, ihmettelivät, että ollaan tulossa Iraniin. Yks iranilainen, Jenkeissä asuva tyttö antoi numeronsa ja sanoi, että voidaan soittaa, jos halutaan jotain apua. Juuri kellään ei ollut huivia portilla, ainoastaan joillakin vanhemmilla naisilla, vaan laittoivat ne koneen laskeuduttua. Passintarkastuksessa meitä, kuten kaikkia muitakin koneessa ollutta noin viittä länkkäriä, pyydettiin istumaan odottamaan ja meidän passit lähti jonnekin yläkertaan. Eri miehet niitä kävi heiluttelemassa ja pohdittiin, näkyykö mulla jotain liikaa tai mistä kiikastaa. Väsy painoi. Lopulta saatiin passit ja päästi... read more
TK:n lahjat kelpasivat
Basaaria
Raflan sisäänkäynti

Middle East » Iran » West » Esfahan October 13th 2014

It's a Shia Islamic holiday today called Eid-al Ghadir- "the day in which the Holy Prophet of Islam, by divine command in his last sermon, designated Imam Ali, the first Shia Imam, as his immediate successor"- couldn't have said it any better than that- thank you Wikipedia. The concert of last night and fireworks of the last few nights have been part of the celebrations. Today Esfehan is going to be very quiet- no bazaar, no banks, no shops etc. It is a day for celebrations with family at home. Perfect day for me to spend in the Armenian Quarter (Jolfa)! According to some sources, back in 1607 Shah Abbas I was responsible for driving 150 0000 Armenian Christians from Jolfa in Armenia to Esfahan to establish New Jolfa, according to others he rescued them from ... read more
Vank Cathedral
Vank Cathedral
Vank Cathedral

Middle East » Iran » West » Esfahan October 12th 2014

You meet some very interesting people on your travels. Travel creates a level playing field for these encounters. This morning I had breakfast with the Austrian Ambassador to Doha and her partner. We sat out in the courtyard and swapped stories; a potted history over coffee, flat bread and Persian feta in a blue courtyard. It's kind of like speed dating (well, I think it would be like speed dating); you tell a story, listen to a story and maybe spend more time with them if the inclination and opportunity arises, or if not it's still a part of the overall travel experience. They are here for a few more nights, I think we'll spend some more time together. So, the day begins with a plan to visit the Masjed-e Shah and the Masjed-e Lotfollah during ... read more
Buildings around Dibai
Buildings around Dibai
Friendly printing guy

Middle East » Iran » West » Esfahan October 11th 2014

Q: How can you see Esfehan in 2 Days? A: You Can't Sooooo... this morning over breakfast at the 'Divine Dibai' I made a decision. I decided to stay a total of 4 nights in Esfehan instead of 2. The original plan was to move on to Kashan and then have 3 nights in the Caspian Sea area to the north of Tehran before flying home. I had booked at a place called Khoone Geli, an Eco resort at the foot of the Alborz Mountains to do some more hiking. It sounded perfect- my last few nights in Iran hiking amongst forest, and 4000m peaks. In reality though it would mean 2 days of bus and taxi trips for 2 days of hiking, I thought to myself, "if Soufi has 2 extra nights available that will ... read more
Courtyard by Daylight
Another of the rooms
Sign Pic

Middle East » Iran » West » Esfahan October 10th 2014

David from Spain snores. David from Spain snores loudly. David from Spain snores loudly, nearly all night long. Chilly night and a cloudy sky this morning without a fully visible sunrise. I do like contrasts though... Serenity v Snoring, Sleep v No Sleep, Orange Sunrise v Grey Sky... So today after a final campfire breaky and a farewell to Hashem and David from Spain I am picked up by Ali in his super fast jeep. He has his constant companion, his little boy, with him who loves tearing around the sand dunes as much as his he does. I would bet he will be driving like his Dad in a few years. Arrive back at Barandaz where I get picked up by a taxi driver to go back to Garmeh. If I'd thought this through it ... read more
Hashem
David from Spain
On the Road Again

Middle East » Iran » West » Esfahan October 9th 2014

Geo: 32.68, 51.68This is a collection of photos of people I have gathered in Iran. Explanations are as follows, relating to photo captions.Family from Persian Gulf - I was struck by the bright clothes and my guide (Soheil) found out they were from the far south of Iran near the Persian Gulf. Like everyone I asked they were happy to have me take their picture. Some people asked me to take their picture when the thought hadn't crossed my mind.Me taking pictures of myself - self-explanatory except it was in the mirrored terrace of a fine palace in Shiraz.The Hamam - you've seen this one before. Ancient Hamam, the owner and Soheil.Smokers in the tea house - we stopped off in the tea house for tea (obviously) and these guys were hard at work puffing away ... read more
Me taking pics of myself
The Hamam
Smokers in the tea house

Middle East » Iran » West » Esfahan October 8th 2014

Shiraz is a centre of Persian culture and literature, we visited two poets tombs, very impressive gardens and buildings for both, Saadi is major Persian poet from middle ages, his writtings still relavent today 700 years later. Persoplolis is archeological site some 2500 years old in time of Persian empire of Darius, I, II & III. They built a huge terrace, with 3..4 palaces much of which remains. How much manpower to fetch stone from many miles away, then erect it into a100 coloumns for a big reception room, murials depict parties bearing gifts from 28 nations in Persian empire. Cuneiform is text engravings on stones lasts 2500years to this day, any of my program code written into machines has a working life of maybe 20 years. Drive from Shiraz to Eshafan 380km, fill up with ... read more
Long roads, 450km to Shiraz
Tourist bus
Saadi mauselum




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