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Middle East » Iran » West » Qom November 16th 2000

Starting early morning we are departing Esfahan which I feel is not a moment too soon. We are looking at a drive of roughly 400 km to reach Tehran. First we will be going north to Kashan, then northwest to Qom before reaching Tehran in the evening. We make an early stop in a small town near Esfahan to look at the local mosque, and Mr. Bergman buys yet another little souvenir in spite of the protests of his wife. The next stop is a slight detour from the route to Kashan via the village Natanz. This name is nowadays (2005) closely associated with the Iranian uranium enrichment program, but to us it is simply the home village of Mr. Hoseyn, and when he invites us to have some tea at his mother's place we are ... read more
-Silence, camera!
Kashan, Fin Garden
Entering Qom

Middle East » Iran » West » Esfahan November 15th 2000

Last day in Esfahan and the schedule is padded with lots of air. We start out at the Esfahan Jame Mosque and the nearby bazaar. The mosque itself is full of pigeons and has some damage from an Iraqi air raid. Farzaneh describes her own memories of similar attacks. We have a quick glance through the bazaar along the way. I am always on the lookout for more portraits of the Ayatollahs and the president, having acquired a small collection already. One interesting and unusal type of shops are the ones that specialize in wedding equipment. What catches the eye is a number of big ornamented table stand mirrors in white, silver or golden colour. Another oddity is the mosque with the shaking minarets which is our next stop. Having wandered around Naqsh-e-Jahan Square the other ... read more
Esfahan Jame Mosque
The Esfahan Jame Mosque
The Jame Mosque

Middle East » Iran » West » Esfahan November 14th 2000

Our first destination is the most obvious of the local tourist traps, the gigantic Naqsh-e-Jahan Square. A roughly 500 meter long plaza surrounded by a slew of interesting buildings, dominated by the imposing Imam Hoseyn Mosque (a.k.a. Abbasi Jame Mosque) to the south, the smaller and more exquisite Sheikh Lotf Ol-lah Mosque to the east and the cryptically christened Ali Qapoo Edifice, a palace-like structure built under Shah Abbas I as a place for his audiences to the west. Most of the square is occupied by a big park with fountains, and tourist minded carriages are making their way around the square in circular patterns. The Grand Imam Hoseyn Mosque with its 52 meter tall dome looks great, its decorated walls shimmering in the morning light, but as with many mosques its disposition makes photography very ... read more
Naqsh-e-Jahan Square
Imam Hosein Mosque
All that' I'm saying...

Middle East » Iran » West » Nain November 13th 2000

We leave Yazd early morning heading west for the last of the big cities on the tour - Esfahan. The familiar desert landscape is all around us, and to keep spirits up Mr. Bergman is assaulting me with a barrage of quotes from the spoof magazine Grönköpings Veckoblad which is about as exciting as it sounds. Well, you've heard of the Esperanto language haven't you? I bet you didn't know that it has a cousin called Transpiranto. And I bet you didn't know how to say "Prohibited to walk the park lawn". It's "Non stampas on Pampas". There you go, I'm afraid it is all that I can remember. Crossing into Esfahan province we encounter the ruins of another caravansaray on the outskirts of Na'in. Parts of it are now in use as a camel pen. ... read more
Caravansaray ruins in the desert
Caravansaray ruins in the desert
A weird camel keeper

Middle East » Iran » West » Esfahan July 31st 1971

A morning IranAir flight brought us down from Tehran to Esfahan (or Isfahan). There were indeed wonders to behold in this city. The principal destination was the Maidan, or Naqsh-e-Jahan Square (called Shah Square then). The central structure is the imposing Masjed-e Shah or Shah Mosque (now known as the Imam Mosque). The mosque was begun in 1611 during the reign of Shah Abbas I (1571-1629), who rebuilt Esfahan as his capital. It was simply stunning with its mosaic tile ornamentation and the elegant blue tiled dome was especially memorable. The mosque is considered to represent the high point of Persian architecture in the period of the Safavid Dynasty (16th-17th centuries). Along with Naqsh-e Jahan Square, it was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. Most of the famous historic structures in the city date ... read more
Madrasah at Shah Mosque
Iwan Portal and Minarets
Courtyard of the Shah (Imam) Mosque




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