Blogs from Tehran, North, Iran, Middle East - page 8

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Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran October 15th 2007

One day I was walking around in Tajrish Square, north Tehran, looking for things to do. Started flirting with the idea of riding with one of these crazy motorcycle taxi guys. So started hustling with one of them to get the cheapest rate. He was a very pleasant fellow, whom I began to like. After we agreed on the price, he gave a me a tour of rich neighborhoods of north Tehran. Moshtaba is a 24 year old migrant from Borjnurd, small town in Khorasan, north east Iran. When I asked him if ever any of those pretty Tehrani girls get behind the motorcycle is replies, not a chance. He is married with a small child and lives in North Tehran. His family have been farmers, but their land holdings are small, which has prompted him ... read more
N Tehran
N Tehran
N Tehran

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran October 8th 2007

Brief History and city layout First thing I get asked by poeple here is what I think has changed in the past 27 years. First things that comes to mind is is that there are twice the number of poeple in the country, (times 4 in the capital), and twcie the number of cars. I leave the rest up to you to imaginge how things have changed. Modern Tehran has never been a historical town. The original Tehran which was made Capital by the Qajars a century a two ago was confined the central and southern parts of the city which contains the only remaining monuments in the city. The areas is one of the only regions of the city which has retained its historical flavor and architecture, even that is under assault now by the ... read more
Park of "Dialogue"
Vali Asr Ave.
Tower of Milad

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran October 6th 2007

Day 4 Tehran to Demavend. The Demavend peak is a spectacular site to watch. On clear days it is easily seen in the Tehran's northeastern skyline. It stands above 18000 feet and even in this latitude and beginning of the fall it is covered with snow. It is a cone shaped structure and is an active volcano. It is a about 60 km north east of Tehran and the road that takes you there cuts though the Alborz mountains which is quite scenic. Huge barren mountains surround the road on every side. There are countless small villages and settlements along the way up. My destination is the village of Reineh, which is a launching area for the climbers to the Demavend peak. A small windy side road off the main high way takes you uphill towards ... read more
Enroute to the peak
Ritual Mourning procession
Rudehen

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran October 6th 2007

Cream and Honey After the 4 hour hike ending around 1030 am, arrive back at the rented lodge, quite hungry. Being the fasting month, all restaurants are closed. Many small convenient stores are open all of which are owned locally. The region is also known for its honey and cream, (asal-o-khameh) a favorite breakfast item in Iran. The cream is taken from 100% pure milk, from non-pasteurized, grass fed cows that receive no growth hormones. The honey is also grown locally, the surrounding mountain meadows which provide a heaven of nectar for pollinating bees. The honey is thick and dark. The lodge next door Before departure I rent a private bath filled with hot local spring water from the guy next door who ends up being my self-appointed driver and guide for the remainder of the ... read more
Ab garm
Ab garm
Ab garm

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran October 3rd 2007

On the plain ride from Dubai to Tehran sat next to a Pakistani emigrant to Dubai who regularly travels to Iran as a consultant for an IT company. He said the first time he set foot in Tehran he was surprised as he had conjured a completely different image of Iran. Instead of what he thought would be an underdeveloped backward and oppressive city, he found it to be surprisingly clean, with a vibrant commercial activity, and an efficient high-way system and modern infra-structure, set in a spectacular setting the Alborz mountain range. Indeed the proximity of the city to this mountain range with the highest peak of 18000 feet is its most remarkable feature. But much has changed since I left it in my early teen years.... read more
New airport
The samand

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran September 28th 2007

Just a quick update to let my sundry following know that I'm alive and this time actually heading in the direction of China (yeay!) though I've still only made it as far as Tehran... but this is as far east as I've gotten in 3 years on the road, so it's not to be taken lightly. A major milestone. And what I really wanted to say is that travelblog.org seems to be blocked at most internet cafes I've been to here (this is the first one in 2 weeks where it worked), so I know I owe you all an Azerbaijan blog (still unwritten), and an account of what I was doing back in Turkey for the past 2 months (very little), and delightfully original insights and observations about Iran... Stay tuned (but don't hold your ... read more

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran July 21st 2007

La frontiera tra Turchia e Iran e' stata superata con molta facilita' e senza alcun minimo controllo dei bagagli alla ricerca di sostanze proibite, dannazione! Giusto il tempo di cambiare le poche lire turche in Rials che mi ritrovo in mano due grandi mazzette da non ho ben capito quanto, ma che bastano a farmi sentire ricco ed onnipotente; probabilmente il cambio e' stato una fregatura, ma il venerdi' le banche sono chiuse e comunque chissenefrega: le mie tasche sono gonfie da scoppiare e non vedo l'ora di addentrarmi in questo nuovo paese! Ci fermiamo a Maku, prima citta' dopo il confine, e realizziamo che e' troppo tardi per prendere l'autobus per Tabriz, ma non vogliamo assolutamente passare la notte in questo anonimo villaggio; gli unici mezzi in partenza sono diretti a Tehran e ci ritroviamo ... read more
Il traffico infernale
Paykan!
L'ingresso al grande bazar coperto

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran July 3rd 2007

Orumiyeh - Tabriz - Tehran - Mashhad - Bam - Kerman - Five Finger Mountain - Shiraz 'I wanted to escape, to experience freedom. I left Iran, crossed Turkey & paid a few thousand dollars for a place on a boat, already full of asylum seekers, heading towards Greece. My own passport would get me no further; I disposed of it and bought a fake one from someone else. The journey was treacherous; the boat sailed at night and when we reached land the only way forward was up. Beyond a precarious cliff edge climb was freedom. By the time I reached the top my hands were bloody, I was exhausted. I'd made it; but not everyone else was as lucky as me' Welcome to Iran; a land of contradictions where people are extremely passionate about ... read more
Local Style Rug
Camel Burger?
Drum

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran May 10th 2007

So a reader sent me a short youtube link to a redonculous parody travel ad to the Middle East: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_hH1cPRXI0 Sure, it's black humor to it's deepest darkest black hole, but 'oh dear' enough to check out. Thanks for the worries, but Iran's really not all that dangerous once you're there as long as you don't confuse the country's name with its western neighbour's! (it has happened, no joke, at a UN Ambassador's university seminar. The guestspeaker who congresswoman made the mistake was not on 'wanna grab drinks after this gig?' terms with the Iranian UN Ambassador at least. Much of the American media, including the popular Glenn Beck, has said a lot of harmful comments about Iran. I'm a frat-party-ridden college kid so I cannot say that I am a specialist about the country...but ... read more
White palace
world's largest pink diamond
Shah's crown

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran April 24th 2007

Not knowing what to expect, I secretly worried as I boarded Iran Air Flight#800, after all, it seemed like the only Japanese-equivalent of Lonely Planet edition of 'Persia' (NB Not 'Iran') was outdated since the Islamic Revolution and they just wrote random baulderdash to fill the blank spaces and inlcluded photos that were clearly from the 80s. Or was this really Iran today? I turned back to the dodgy Farsi phrases-section at the back, convinced that my previous knowledge of Arabic would definitely help. Ah, no. Only the numerals, I suppose then. It could be worse. And come to think of it, the random pet name my Sunni Muslim friend gave me was 'Aisha', which isn't all that pleasant when it comes to Shiite terms. Bother. Great start, mate. Anyhow. I decide to look around ... read more
Azadi Square




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