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Published: September 29th 2009
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After leaving the beutified promenades, Basvice inlet swimming cove, grapes, figs and heat of Split, I headed to Zagreb on September 26th. Before leaving, I spent my final Kunas at the local markets and went to where I though a lovely beach would be in Solin, 10 mins by train out of Split. This proved to be a motorway and tank farm area, with no beach in sight.........but huge rampantly growing fig trees by the road side and underpasses. The figs I picked were incredible and I have developed a love having never tasted them before (Croats I hear have had enough of the taste, too much of a good thing maybe??)
The ride to Zagreb was long, but I made friends and with two couples, one from the USA (Minnesota) and other from Vancouver, BC via Sydney Australia. We had good travel yarns and shared our graps, bread, figs, plums...it was a proper train feats. Then being first class as a Eurail pass holder must do, they brought out the sandwiches and drinks........compare that with windows that do not shut and stinky dirty cabins with 3 abreast and it was heavenly. The scenery was amazing as it was coming
down the line, with plateaus, high mountain passes with semi arid appearance (usual here?) and pine or fir trees. A late arrival into Zagreb meant a quick dash to the agency that arranged my single room with bathroom 10 mins walk away. Lucky for me they remained open despite waiting a whole hour as the train was 45 mins alter than planned. So kind, and I was truly thankful for the air con, small fridge and pleasant good night sleep in darekened room with really good blinds..................so much I nearly missed my wake up at 8,30am the next day.
I had little chance to see this place but what I did catch on a morning jog was Dolac market, the upper town cathedral with ornate tiling decoration, and general sunday morning activity of sleepy looking locals of to do their errands. The day was spent travelling to Budapest to meet the Intrepid group at a Pest hotel, and after pleasing the train conductor with my Eurail pass and a smile, got some shut eye and watched the scenery rush by (on most occasions, apart from border stops). The hotel I was to join was not signed well and after
a hike from Keleti station (maps lie!!) and lasking locals, I got there bang on 6pm to meet a group of 6. The meal we had after was nothing fancy for 10 euros, and stodgy and fried by nature. I hope the cuisine gets better!
Staying on the Pest side was different to Gellert hills area, and I got to do the baths in eastern Budapest near the park on the Monday morning (we hada conservative start at 9,45am so up at 7am to wander 30 mins there). Yesterday was spent travelling to the town of Eger, 2,5hrs by train, and a chance to sightsee the castle area, minuret (mosque) and poarklands. Plus the grap region of the valley behind it, renound for beautiful women. Hell, the wine was good, but I did not see any beautiful women around...there was the odd dog this morning on a morning jog, barking, and rich smells of vines and grapes (bulls blood), but no women. Where is everyone???
In Debrecen, we head to Romania shortly, and have 3 hrs to spare. The group is bonding well, apart from the odd snorer, but the single rooms are shared around thankfully. I cannot
go further unslept, nor can others of course.
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