Debrecen to Vadu Izei and Baia Mare

The break in Debrecen for 3 hours was deserved, as the rest of the afternoon was spent travelling across country by rail and then minibus to our final destination at Sighetu Marmatiei. This small town is only 2km from the Ukraine border and beyond which is some 'no mans land', being forbidden to cross. Debrecen, Hungary, has several impressive buildings but only worth a short stop to do internet, stock up on any groceries etc. It is on the edge of the Hortobagy national park of Hungary, a superb place evidently to see birdlife and rambling plains (the highest peak in Hungary is approximately 300m!).

The train departed at 3.11pm and we headed 3 hours in westerly direction towards Romania's northeastern region of Maramures ('Maramuresh'). The train involved the usual border crossing, slightly more stringent it seemed than coming in or out of Croatia to neighbouring countries. The officials checked under our seats after ordering us to stand, and see if we were concealing anything (or anybody) beneath. Our passports were also scrutinised for 10 mins, one of the group being identified as having an old one - he did not indeed read it correctly when making these remarks, as she very much had an eligible Australian passport! I got the abrupt 'so you are from NZ?' question also, as if I was expected to come up with some reason for his suspicion...hhhmmm not sure why. I have nothing to declare to them expect fresh fruit, but that does not count here!

Romania is one hour ahead of Hungary, and so after arriving at 6pm (7pm), we drove for another 2.5hrs until reaching the pension Ardelean at 9.30pm, ready for a home cooked meal from our hostess with the mostest, Ramona (and husband Peter). Entree of breads with lard and cheese, followed by vegetable soup began. Then it was quickly onto the main course and dessert, being veal, mashed potato and a small salad of tomatoes. All washed down with 55% home made white spirit, it was indeed therapeutic, if promoting, of a sore throat! Late to bed and a fairly average sleep with my snoring room mate, it was up to a wet misty morning with the locals at 7.30am. Children were already on their way to school wearing jackets, old wrinkled adscarfed women with unmatching floral tunics and dresses tended their gardens, and horse driven carts ploughed up and down the gravel roads. This area is known for it's ethnic heritage and appeared quite poor. Even the train stations are pretty rough n ready, with more graffiti making an appearance again. I managed a jog uphill in the valley, into misty surrounds.........after breakfast of lard, bread and jams of which I could not quite stomach, the rain set in.........

For our day ahead, we hada guide named Nikolai who in hindsight was incredibly pround and knowledgable for the day. For our group this 'extra' in the tour cost 20 euros each, and with the 21 euros for 3 meals at Ramona's over 2 nights as well, this was well worth it. We took in the 'Merry cemetery' where everyone who wishes to be buried there had a headstone with pictures and stories from the person's life and their job. This was interesting, especially seeing the grand church being restored aside it. 10Lei thank you (about 5NZD). We wasted loads of time here, and so went onto the open air museum of ethnic life before a late lunch at 3pm at Nikolais friends restaurant. The museum has several huts, outhouses, gardening implements and equipment, mostly made of wood (even have wooden tiles). With stories of extreme overcrowding, existing as recently as 50yrs ago, I thought this akin to living conditions parts of South Auckland, right??

After a quick lunch of soup all round, we visited a monastery and traditional home where methods of milling wheat into polenta, brewing spirits from plums or grapes, and pressing apple juice manually continue. Talk about winding back the clock, but yet with such assets and ways, people seem very happy. After visiting the nuns, it was high time for another fantastic meal of lard, bread, soup (chicken noodel this time) and chicken legs..........but Ramona knew the key to my heart was serving........clumpy rice. Yum Yum.

We bid farewell to Ramona today at 5am, and drove another bumpy road, as the previous one was (bone shaker springs to mind, these are state highways!) to Baia Mare in order to catch the only daily train to Sighisoara, a Worl heritage area currently being restored uin the old citadel. 7 hours later and a slightly train delay had us settled into the city hostel, Burg hostel, for some wandering and photo opportunities amongst the dusty lanes being worked over. I got lost in the hills behind town, and nearly taken by dogs, safely made it back to the markets to negotiate a good price for copious amounts of grapes being trodden down to good quality 'Vino'. More kiddies shouting at me in their tongue, dogs barking, couples building concrete steps, apples strewn across the street and some harvesting the park apples for their soon-to-be cider. Backwards yet so forwards in their own way.

Tomorrow we head to Sibiu for another pension and country experience, and am hoping that the heat of today will settle into something milder. Thereafter, Bucharest and southwards.....

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