pn76

Behind El Masnou, the houses and settlements stretch beyond the autovía, that then blends from a scene of urban to forested hills. Casas from the early 1900s, and other historic buildings, mix with a few modern buildings, as our terraza was. Once the hairdresser arrangements were made for later in the week (when P2s research failed at one overbooked one, we found a substitute near the NII road, Marga Sáez), we cycled up to Bouquet de Alella, to taste and potentially buy some local ‘vi’. A greyish day, it wasn’t the most photogenic. However, once at the gravelly patio entrance, flanked by barrels, with broad views to the vineyard and sea beyond, and purple bougainvillea against a stone wall, it felt very European. Early afternoon on a weekday, and we had the salesperson/ wine taster to ... read more

Almadraba is a section of the Benicasim beach coastline, near the northern end and before the Via Verde begins as part of the EV8. Typically Mediterranean, with a blue sea and promenade, the view out to the Mar Baleárico, in this case, was pretty clear. Ships sat off the port at Castello visible 15km away, dogs were being walked, and cyclists could move in separated paths to joggers, runners and promenaders. Disability access beaches and toilets, playgrounds for the 3-7 year olds, cafes / restaurants, and beachside showers and foot taps /washes at 100m intervals indicate it’s definitely been well thought out. And well populated, judging by the average age or hair colour of the cyclists, walkers, promenaders etc. The time of year (it’s off season), unoccupied summer accommodation (there’s a lot of places for sale/ ... read more

Day one out of Cordoba was deliberately light on the pedalling front, to limit what could have been an 80km day, had we gone further east. We’d managed to fall asleep the night before despite our near neighbour in the apartment block singing his heart out to the transistor radio. A knock on his door after midnight stopped it (we’ve been told there are strict noise rules in such blocks in Spain). Misty and cool 5C at 8am was the weather pattern that followed us from Córdoba, to El Carpio and beyond. The 31km followed a good ten kilometres of cycle path, with an industrial N-road section after, and then a chance to peel off onto slightly quieter parallel (to the autovía) camino rurales. Coming into El Carpio before 2:30 was an outright record. We discovered ... read more

Both yellow and orange warnings remained in place the morning we rose to ride 77km to La Garovilla. Meteorological services had referred to it as an atmospheric river / bomb, and reconciling two main weather forecasts, we determined a window of opportunity existed sometime before 2pm. That meant getting up well before the sunrise, which in Olivença was 8.45am (roll on the winter timing late October!). I did not sleep much that night, concerned about our safe passage. Casa Bari in the old town, a large townhouse type casa with blue tiled stairwell and old lighting, had been a beautiful stay in one of the cleaner spots we’ve passed, pristine Olivença. We’d been lazy enough on the second day to wander the old centre, its gates, and marvel at the lack of tourists. Extremadura was not ... read more

“Half the enjoyment is in the planning”. And how fast time went from then to now. We cooked this idea up as a combination of unrealised plans in Spain from 2020, with the opportunity to one day visit Portugal. Adding some new knowledge, and an aspiration to see Portugal more than what a lengthy bike packing weekender from Extramadura or Andalucía could have been (it was a two town based unrealised adventure), and here it is. Lisbon to Barcelona by bike is something that might be seen as adventurous, but, we hope to take it gradually, allowing both body and mind to absorb the journey and maybe several paderia/ panadería on the way. There is something about having another birthday, and one’s health, that meant the time’s now. Night time flights for 17 hours are generally ... read more