Blogs from Navarre, Spain, Europe

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Europe » Spain » Navarre » Villafranca May 28th 2022

We started today thinking about the climb to the Cruz de Fiero and how rough it was going to be from Foncebadon. It turned out the worse parts, for sure, were from Rabanal del Camino and the vicious climb, and from the Cruz de Fiero downhill... I mean downhill. We left just after 6am, and for the next hour and a half, we climbed, and I mean climbed! It was brutal. When we reached Foncebadon, there was no discussion of whether we'd stop to take a break or not. We stopped in the first cafe/bar in town, and had coffees. Steeled for the next part, which was supposed to be so much worse, we started the climb. It turned out to be much less steep than the parts we'd already done that day. We were wondering ... read more
First sight of Foncebadon
Entering Foncebadon
Coffee break at the first bar in town

Europe » Spain » Navarre » Villafranca May 20th 2022

We left Granon before 6:30am because we had a 27 kilometer hike to Villafranca Montes de Oca. I'd already noticed how many towns we would pass through, so we didn't look in Granon for a place for breakfast. Turns out, that was a mistake. We had to pass through four towns before we found a bar that was open in the fifth town. About 20 minutes out of town, we got to the sign for Castile y Leon, showing we were entering a new province. Our first town was Redecilla del Camino, which we reached in just under an hour. It was a small but interesting town, with a nice plaza, but no bar or cafe. Next, we walked a lot beside the highway before reaching Castiledelgado. It had a quaint church, but again, no bar ... read more
The sign for entering Castilla y Leon
Our first town, Redecilla del Camino in sight
Manoli taking a photo as we get closer

Europe » Spain » Navarre » Viana May 16th 2022

We left the albergue about 7am, stopping at the Panaderia de Los Arcos for some coffee and sweets. There were a lot of wheat fields with mountain backgrounds in the 7 kilometers between Los Arcos and Sansol, the first town along the way. It was fairly flat, compared to other days, so far. At the entrance to Sansol we stopped at the Tienda Colmado for another cup of coffee and some sweets, our second breakfast. Once we left Sansol, and Torres del Rio its neighbor behind, it would be almost 10 kilometers with nothing. Fortunately, there was a donativo about half way that had some soda, water and fruit. A donativo is a place where someone sets up with fruit, water, soda, etc., and usually you pay what you want to donate. In this case, everything ... read more
Our sweets and coffee for the morning
Some pretty scenery on the way to Viana
To give you some idea of the long walks

Europe » Spain » Navarre » Estella May 15th 2022

We left again at about 6:30am, and quickly left town and entered Ayegui. At the entrance to the town they had a sign saying 100 kilometers. Hmm, I'm pretty sure its been more than 100. The towns are basically right next to each other. In 2015, we passed through Estella accidentally and stopped at the municipal albergue of Ayegui. Just like in 2015, the store on the corner where you turn to go uphill to the monastery was the only thing open. I don't remember then that they had coffee and a seating area, but now they did, so we quickly took advantage of it. Afterwards, we walked uphill to the famous Irache Monastery, stopping briefly at an iron workers shop. We then continued uphill to the wine fountain, where you can get a free sip ... read more
Found a store and a cafe, open before 7am
The Irache Monastery
An interesting ironworks just outside the monastery

Europe » Spain » Navarre » Estella May 14th 2022

To avoid the afternoon heat, we were packed up and on our way by 6:30am. Since the hotel was at the entrance to town, we had to walk through town to get on the trail. Although it was early, we kept an eye open and spotted a tavern that was open, so we could have a cup of coffee. We finally left Puente La Reina, crossing the old bridge, and posing for a few shots. After about an hour and a half we entered Maneru. We decided to stop for another coffee at the Albergue El Canero. About an hour later we entered Cirauqui, where the Camino passes through an archway of an old building. They provide a stamp, so we got one. I haven't mention this before, but every albergue, most bar and restaurants, and ... read more
A quick coffee at a tavern before leaving town
The quiet streets of Puente La Reina, at 7am
Ready to leave across the bridge

Europe » Spain » Navarre » Puente La Reina May 13th 2022

We slept fairly well last night, as we've gotten used to the routine. We'd decided to leave a bit earlier and avoid the afternoon heat, so we were up at 6am and out the door by 6:30. It took a while to get out of Pamplona, but the walk was fairly pleasant, through parks and such. When we reached the outskirts of Pamplona, we crossed a busy roundabout and headed up hill (of course) to Cizur Menor. I remembered staying in the Mari Roncal albergue when I did the Camino in 2017, and sure enough it was still there, although called Familia Roncal albergue. At the top of the hill, we spotted a decent bar, and since we hadn't had breakfast at the municipal albergue in Pamplona, we stopped for coffee. I forget the name of ... read more
A pleasant walk out of Pamplona
A small medieval bridge before Cizur Menor
The road up to Cizur Menor

Europe » Spain » Navarre » Pamplona May 12th 2022

After a decent night's sleep, we got up, got our bags ready for transport, and headed downstairs for breakfast. The albergue had the usual toast, jam, orange juice, and coffee. They also had cereal with milk and a pastry. After breakfast, we headed out, crossing the bridge again, and this time turning right. Soon we could see Illarratz in the distance. As we entered the small town, there was a welcome spot to take a break. At about quarter til 9, we passed through Ezkirotz and continued on until Larrasoana. Larrasoana isn't actually on the Camino, but all you have to do is cross a bridge to enter the town, instead of turning left. We'd been walking about 2 hours, and there was a sign for Bar Amari, so we went for it. Well, there isn't ... read more
Heading for Ilarratz
Welcome spot for a break
Entering Ezkirotz

Europe » Spain » Navarre » Roncesvalles May 11th 2022

We got in the morning, packed our stuff, and headed downstairs for our breakfast. The breakfast was served in Casa Sabina, the same place as dinner. They had the usual coffee, orange juice and toast, and they had a pastry of some sort and an apple. We finished our breakfast and were on our way by 8am. We posed for a photo by the infamous "Santiago de Compostela 780" kilometers, then walked for a few kilometers along a river thru a forst. By 8:16, we reached our first town, Burguete/Auritz. I'd noticed that my face was sort of tight from the high winds the previous day, so Manoli went to the supermarket while I had a coffee at the nearby Bar Goxona. They had a town square with some awesome trees. We would see this type ... read more
Some of the fancy wall grafitti
Bar Goxana for a coffee
The town square in Burguete/Auritz

Europe » Spain » Navarre » Olite September 10th 2019

Day 12 Olite to Tiermas We started the day with a walk around the town, it's much quieter this morning, the revelers must still be in bed, or church. The castle looks as if it could be from a fairytale, with its pretty turrets. It was the home if the Royal family of this area in the 1500's. The walled town around it us made up if churches, set in squares with narrow cobbled streets joining them. We're low on food but it's Sunday, the supermarkets aren't open, so when we found a small general store I popped in to buy food for the day. Back at Dream Catcher we plan a scenic drive to take us east further into the mountains. The route passed by rows of grapes all dark purple and waiting to be ... read more
Olite castle
Olite church
Ujue

Europe » Spain » Navarre September 9th 2019

Day 5 Cloyes de le Loir to NarscBefore setting out this morning, domestic services did some laundry whilst maintenance tightened the alternator belt. Just as we were ready to leave a British camper pulled in and came over to admire Dream Catcher, they were an interesting older couple who had lived in South Africa for around 30 years and of course owned a Land Rover out there, they had toured in Africa in it with a roof tent attached.After the guided tour of the interior, between the wet washing hanging up, we set off, Doris is feeling better today and is set for a dash south on the motorways. We're heading towards Tours and from previous journeys the best ways past the city is motorway, even if us poor pensioners have to pay the tolls. It's ... read more




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