More fun in Barcelona

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After a fun night last night, I had to be disciplined and get up to run. What made this easier was the opportunity to put in a few miles ascending Montjuic, the hill located near the hostel, and taking in the views of the city along the way.

Montjuic sits about 550 feet above sea level - not a tremendous climb - but the grade of much of the run and the trail running to avoid road construction made for a somewhat intense run. With the construction, I wasn’t sure how far up I could go so I stopped at numerous points along the way to snap pictures (and catch my breath). The run up was well worth it since the views from the top provided a panorama of the entire city, the hills and the Olympic Stadium to the north and the Mediterranean Sea to the south.

The way down was much quicker as I migrated towards some smalls paths in between trees and down numerous sets of old steps.

Back at the hostel during breakfast, I met some girls (Alex and Erica) who were talking about doing a walking tour of the Barri Gotic, the old portion of town, later that morning. Christina joined us as we set out to meet the tour group near La Boqueria. On the way there, I took us up one street and asked how far up La Boqueria is. Puzzled, they all asked what I was talking about. Then Christina asked if I thought this was Las Ramblas (a main thoroughfare with tons of tourists, shops, restaurants and cafes). I said I did and I walked up it yesterday but didn’t see La Boqueria. Laughing, they informed me I was on the wrong street. That explains why I was disappointed that there were so few people out. I just figured it was the rain.

We then headed to the real Las Ramblas and found the tour group at a bar on a side street. Las Ramblas was much more as expected, with people everywhere, taking in the street performers, dining at the cafes and shopping at the freestanding shops which surrounded the wide walkway.

The tour was so so, with a few interesting but forgettable tidbits about the city and its history. The most memorable parts were the guide’s story about the naked old man who walks around the streets with a tattoo bathing suit and the Estrella beer after it ended.

The four of us were pretty hungry so we headed to La Boqueria, a large food market nearby. The market is enormous and has numerous stands with fresh fish, meats, cheeses, produce, eggs, nuts, candies and prepared foods. Many of the items at these stands were also very unique - at least for the markets where I’ve been. Skinned heads with comatose eyes, livers, hearts, tongues, stomachs and intestines were highlights of the meat stands. Large fish heads, sans bodies, whole shrimp and live crabs and lobsters on ice were found at the fish stands. Candies and chocolates galore attracted many people at the candy and nuts stand. Fresh juices lined the bars at the fruit stands.

Walking around to find an organic food stand that was recommended to us, we came upon some dancers performing in a small section of open space. They danced, flipped and twirled as a tambourine and drum provided the background music.

For lunch I went with a small sample of fresh tapas and an organic paella. Everything was very good but it left me craving more - especially the paella.

After lunch, we parted ways. Two of the girls went to the beach, Christina went somewhere and I went to the tourist sights on my own. I took the metro up to see Casa Mila, one of the famous buildings designed by Antoni Gaudi in the early 20th century, and La Sagrada Familia, a large church, also designed by Gaudi, that has been 126 years in the making (and counting).

After La Sagrada Familia, I took the metro down to the Basilica and walked up to the Cathedral, back in the old part of town.

Back at the hostel, I spoke with the woman at the front desk (the same one as last night) about recommendations for a good authentic paella. Without pause, she suggested Salamanca, a family owned and operated restaurant in Barceloneta (a section of Barcelona by the sea).

Salamanca reminded me of many of the well-reputed restaurants in America, with framed photographs of many of its customers throughout its life adorning the walls of the cozy interior. I was first brought bread and meats, along with the red house wine I requested, while I looked over the menu. This was for formality’s sake since I already knew I was ordering the seafood paella.

Unfortunately, the paella was for a minimum of two people and I was dining alone. I told the waiter that I was set on paella and if need be, I’ll order for two. Besides craving the dish, I was hungry. Well, he managed to put in the order for one without a problem.

It’s a good thing he did; the dish was massive. The heaping pile of saffron flavored rice was mixed with diced peppers, small shrimp and who knows what other seafood and meats and was accompanied by five clams and a whole shrimp. From the first to the last bite it was magnificent. I’ve had plenty of paella and have loved it all but this one took the cake. It was much less greasy than those I’ve had in America and the multitude of flavors danced in my mouth.

After polishing off every last piece of rice, the waiter sensed I could probably use some dessert. He recommended Crème de Catalan, a regional dessert similar to crème brulee, and I took his recommendation. This was much better than crème brulee as it was much lighter and not overpoweringly sweet.

Before I had finished my dessert, he came back out and placed an unmarked bottled with some sort of bright yellowish green liquid inside it. He poured about two shots worth in a miniature wine glass and I immediately thought, “no, not grappa”.

I had tasted grappa once in Italy and vowed never to let that horribly potent after dinner drink through my lips again.

He mentioned something about trying it and that the restaurant makes its own. I was stuck. I took a sip and tried as best as possible to hide the chills that shot up my spine.

“Good, right?” he proudly inquired.

“Very.”

“Here, have some more. Take as much as you like. No charge.”

If only beer and wine bars were so generous.

In between my first and second rounds, one of the other members of the staff brought out four small cakes which were covered in powdered sugar. These were to accompany the beverage. I used them as chasers. They helped tremendously.

After the second round and payment of the bill, I thanked my waiter for his hospitality and went on my way. For the first time since arriving in Europe I was full.

When I got back to the hostel, I asked the woman at the desk about the liquor. She believes it would have been orujo de heirbes. I searched for this briefly to confirm it and actually found a reference to someone’s similar experience at Salamanca where they were given complimentary orujo de heirbes. That must have been it.

I was glad I tried it but I’ll make the same vow with orujo de heirbes as I did grappa - never again.

I sadly leave Barcelona tomorrow morning. At lot of people built the place up to what I thought was going to be a sure letdown. Well, it matched my lofty expectations. The touring was fine but the culture was where the true pleasure lied.

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Photos

View from Montjuic
A view from the top of Montjuic, looking northeast towards Tibidabo, outside the city limits.

La Boqueria
The market has some very unique foods that can't be found back home.

La Boqueria
The market also has some tasty treats.

La Sagrada Familia
The church is still being constructed. It's been 126 years since it first started to be designed.

Paella
The best paella I ever had. Granted it's the only paella I had from its birthplace.

Orujo de heirbes
This grappa like liquor was on the house and apparently is homemade.