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The topic of the colour of the earth took second place as the colour of the roadside verges changed. The yellow is still there as vivid as ever but now it is interspersed with Oleanders in pinks, white and reds. We criss crossed the Guadalquivir river – one of those major rivers of the world. Those of us of a certain age will remember studying the Guadalquivir . We arrived at our campsite just after 3 in the tiny town of Villafranca de Cordoba. Another blisteringly white Spanish town shimmering in the afternoon sun. There are two possible campsites within striking distance of the city of Cordoba. This one 22 kms distant, more out in the country and with a welcoming swimming pool. The other Camping Brilliante within walking distance. Alberofoli sounded nicer after reading all the reviews. Whilst Brilliante would have offered us an easier route to the city and possibly the chance of going in more than once we didn’t fancy it.
Alberofoli is another ACSI site out of season offering cheap camping rates . Anywhere between 14 and 18 euros although we have only ever found two sites offering 14 euros and this one was
18 euros. A bit overpriced for the facilities 16 euros might have been more like it. Most are around 16 euros per night. Reception was open and friendly and bread could be ordered for the next day. They took in washing at a cost of 8 euros, washed and dried it and returned it to you next day. I prefer to do my own. There is something about someone else doing your dirty underwear that doesn’t quite feel right. There was a bar with free WiFi but this was closed and WiFi wouldn’t work. We had to try our EuropaSim which did work. At last we could access the internet quickly for 3 euros a day. The swimming pool which was open and a supermarket albeit a small one in the town. The bus for Codoba left from the town. We were given a map and a bus timetable . On a weekday the bus left at 8.00 or 9.30 and returned 12.00, 1.30 or 3.30 .
Tomorrow we would use the bus to visit the Islamic influenced city of Cordoba. That should be stunning in a different way.
We woke early, showered and
set off to find the bus stop. Sometimes this can be like looking for a needle in a haystack. The little map we were given reminded me of treasure hunts which were very popular in the 70’s and 80’s . You were given a map with clues and you tried to find each location before moving on to the next one. Eventually you completed the treasure hunt and finished up in a pub. Our prize the bus to the city. First clue – find the roundabout at the end of the road. Now that was easy. We came in that way so knew where it was. Next find the church. Not so easy there are two of them. One seemed more likely to be right as the other was a Ermita in the middle of a field. After this the next clue find the garage and automobile repair. And then out of the corner of our eyes we could see the prize – the bus stop. We were the only ones there until our Belgian neighbours from the campsite arrived followed by the city gent on his way to work, about 20 schoolkids and various elderly men and women having
a day out in Cordoba. A bus came round the corner – not ours but the school bus. The scholars dressed in t-shirts and shorts clambered on. The bus waited and scholars kept turning up until after 10 mins the driver shut the doors, started up his engine and began to drive off. Of course just as he sets off a straggler turns up running and yelling for him to stop. The world never changes wherever you are.
Our bus turned up, no sense of orderly queue prevailed . The last there got on first and the first last . My thoughts were sent back to the 1960’s and the film The Italian Job with Michael Caine, his Cockney villains and the iconic Minis heading off for Turin to undertake a heist. The reasons why I thought this was because in the queue was an elderly rather rotund lady with walking sticks. She struggled to get on the bus and was helped by an elderly gentleman on the bus who pulled her up the steps and another who pushed her behind as if forcing her through a gap. It reminded me of Benny Hill the eccentric computer
boffin pushing the elderly large Italian lady by her bottom up the steps and ending up in prison.
Having picked us all up the bus driver hit the highway and after about 15 kms made his first stop at the university to drop off a number of students. Finally we approached the city. None of the graffiti nor burnt out smashed up cars just wide boulevards filled with water features, flower beds and mature trees. And that thing we take for granted at home – green green grass.
Cordoba is a world heritage site and in 2016 will be the City of Culture. It has been a capital to three different cultures. First the capital of the roman province of Hispania, secondly capital of the arab state and thirdly a Caliphate. We were set off at the utilitarian bus station. A bit of a grey place. But once outside the sun began to shine and we tried to work out how to get to the historic centre. We had been warned by our neighbours a British couple from Christchurch that it was a long walk but could be done in the shade of the
park. Follow the green which snaked up the middle of the road, beneath the trees, around the fountains and the flower beds and eventually you get to the city centre. We did and we found the walls within which was a network of small streets, alleyway, squares and courtyards. The courtyards were open this month as part of the Fiesta of the courtyards – a sort of National Gardens Scheme where you can see courtyards which are normally never open and part of private housing.
Cake and coffee time . Espresso, cappuccino and a custard flan with golden topping and a cake covered in banana and pineapple. The only downside were the number of beggars who stopped at cafes and shoved their plastic cups under your nose demanding cash. They were expertly waved away by the locals.
Everything in Cordoba more or less revolves around the Mezquita. An odd name for the cathedral and it was like nothing we had seen before. According to the tourist blurb it is a truly must see building and is approached via the belltower which was built in the 1600’s and the Patio de los Naranjos. The patio
of oranges was full of regimented lines of orange trees and little rills full of water. And of course people. We knew that the Mezquita didn’t open until 10 so headed out towards the river with its Roman bridge. Along the wide Guadalquivir were mills dating back to the 1700’s . All very pictureseque. A roman arch completed the scene. Shops spilt out onto the street full of silver jewellery delicately worked, ivory type picture frames all of Islamic design.
As we had time to spare before the cathedral opened we headed for the Alcazar de los Reyes Christianos. Originally an 8
th century caliphate residence it became the home of Ferdinand and Isabella King and Queen of Spain. Inside was disappointing with ramparts, a couple of towers and a hall with roman mosaics however outside the place came to life. An arab water garden. Water gushed from wall fountains in deep rills alongside the paths. Ponds stretched as far as the eye could see, Snapdragons flowered amongst the orange trees. Swiss Cheese plants grew large in the sunny hot garden. Neatly manicured hedges and trees were planted around the ponds. Not as monumental as some of the
Italian gardens we have seen but a very cooling and soothing place where you could sit awhile under the trees and understand just how important a water garden was in this part of the world.
Our next port of call was the mezquita. Built around the courtyard of oranges in 786 as a mosque it has been altered and changed and Christianised over time. Islamic brickwork and arches punctuated the walls. Doorways were in that distinctive horseshoe style seen nowhere else. The outside where the Islamic influences remained was pretty and was probably our favourite views. The camera clicked at every opportunity and every doorway or window. We had to stop for another drink just to take in the intricate patterning of the walls, windows and doors. We paid our 16 euros entry fee and joined what we thought was a long snaking queue. Realising it was two tours we extricated ourselves and went inside to be greeted by the deepest of darkness we had ever seen. It was hard to see anything after going from the bright sunshine into the deep cave like darkness of the cathedral. In front of us in the gloom we could
pick out a forest of arches of Islamic style in red and white stripes. First one arch, above it another and beyond it arches. They seemed to go on to infinity. One after the other. The darkness did lighten as you moved into the body of the church and the arches still went on. To the east, to the west, up the centre. Only broken by the Christian bits the pure white domed ceiling sitting on top of the arches awkwardly. The roman columns, the marble which jarred against those endless relenting columns in what was once a simple mosque with Mithrab pointing to Mecca. The crowds were intense . It was hard to get away from them and find a place to just stand and look. The rebuilding of the church had begun in 1236 and the mosque had gradually given way to a Christian place of worship.
It was impressive. Our English neighbours had suggested that we were seeing this the right way round. They had seen Granada which they enjoyed and marvelled at and then moved to Cordoba which disappointed them. We could nt fail to be impressed with the sheer difference but it
would be interesting to see how Granada measures up. We will be there in a few days. It was a lovely place. I dont think it is ever going to be possible to forget those arches which seemed to go as far as the eye could see. As a simple mosque it must have been stunning.
We caught our bus back after eating the worst pizza we have ever had the misfortune to buy. Soft and soggy, too doughy so we left most of it. At least getting the bus back was easy and cheap. 2 euros 80 each way for one of us. You cant travel from Mold to Buckley and back for that.
Did we like Cordoba? Yes we did. Plenty to see that was different and a delightful city. Wouldn’t have missed it for the world . Not too large that you couldnt see it all but not to small that you got round it quickly. So much to take in at each street corner.
Back at the campsite we reviewed progress . Our next stop should have been Seville but as it was going to be
a Sunday we were unsure about buses. To be on the safe side we decided to head south to the city of Huelva. Why Heulva ? It is not on the tourist routes but Christopher Columbus set out for America from Huelva and there are three replica caravelles in the waterfront museum. A tad theme park but worth a trip out tomorrow.
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Home and Away
Bob Carlsen
We loved Andalusia...
and it was hot in April, too. We went at that time for the Holy Week activities and processions. Have fun!