Blogs from Banat, Romania, Europe - page 3

24-6-2007 Melecxina Once I reached the stop I found an old couple waiting there already. I fell into conversation with the lady who is going to catch the bus and who is called Melecxina. Melecxina is a little older than me and had a mass of grey curls pinned back under her regulation headscarf. Those that had escaped nodded enthusiastically in support of her animated conversation, which from time to time takes on a confidential tone. Her husband would be returning home having accompanied her on the journey and stood apart from this woman talk, felt hat firmly planted on his head. The pair of them have walked for two hours from their village, Vale Roşii, to reach the bus stop. She told me not to worry about being unfamiliar with this bit of the world. ... read more

21-6-2007 I set out over unmapped country An hour or so later I reached my turning and bade my fellow passengers farewell. As the minibus sped off into the distance I stood for a few minutes gazing out over the Danube and towards a very magnificent and mysterious looking Serbia. Then I turned up the small road towards Sicheviţa. My journey on foot had begun. All along the road were large mulberry trees casting great shadows stained an even deeper shade where their purple berries lay. I ate handfuls of the luscious fruit and arriving at a spring outside a church I helped myself liberally from this as well. It was a very fine breakfast. Just as I was coming to the end my mobile phone sprang into action. I was extremely surprised to discover that ... read more

It turns out my mobile's clock was set 20 minutes off so I had to be wakened rather then get up on my own. Peter's wife graciously offered to wash my clothes and when I noted there wasn't time for them to dry she said: "I have a drier!" She provided a graceful transition from the US to Romania. When she bade farewell she offered her hand, but I said "this is Romania!" and demanded a hug. She even packed a lunch for the train ride. The car was a most modern version of a second class car and was quite comfortable, though the toilet refused to flush. Eight hours from Chicago to Munich and eight hours from Timisoara to Craiova. In the course of the trip I slipped my mobile into my shirt, rather than ... read more

I woke up Monika and we met in time for lunch in the center of town. But first we bought my train ticket to Craiova, where I moderately amused/annoyed the clerk by shushing Monika and forced her to deal with my Romanian. We then settled on Casa cu Flori for lunch. She had mentioned that she had been drinking there before but never ate at. On entering the dining room I noted that it was several layers more 'uptown' than I was accustomed to. I was more than satisfied with a meat-stuffed crepe (which they insist on calling pancakes) and an order of farmer's cheese. Monika had a combo plate which included mamaliga topped with an egg, breaded cauliflower, liver and mushroom. Then we strolled hither and yon chatting and popping into this shop or that ... read more

Nice landing, but so quiet compared to my first touchdown here 8 years ago. That time the Tarom airliner was packed with returning Romanians, seemingly grandparents and parents returning from extended stays in the Romanian diaspora. When the wheels touched that time the entire plane exploded with cheers and applause. This time it was a business-as-usual, let me outta this damn plane vibe. Timisoara is a modest-sized airport and Peter had no trouble picking me out of the arrivals. We picked up his wife and kids who were doing some shopping. He took me to his spacious and warm home and as my brain buzzed with travel fatigue we called a couple people I know here and he assisted me in getting a simm card for my phone and some Romanian cash. My phone refused to ... read more