The day improves ...

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After a brief stint in our room, we discovered a whole new Bergen, off the wharf and into the city. It turns out that our son is a fountain lover, and Bergen is full of fountains. The best fountain for kids is the statue of Ole Bull (a violinist) and a mock rocky waterfall, and stepping stones through the fountain base. All the kids were playing in it, on it, climbing up it, and I believe this was a true highlight for K. We also continued through to the park with the lake fountain, and to the Grieghallen, where there is another cool fountain, trying to find a restaurant A. had heard of. It turned out to be some of the best food we've had on the trip (Norway is turning out to be quite good for food, as long as you're willing to spend the money.) I had a saffron chicken soup, A. had a monkfish stew, and K. ordered himself a hamburger. We really wanted him to order off the "Barna" menu (for kids) as it was half the price, but they didn't have a hamburger. Then he only ate 1/4 of the hamburger because he didn't like the sauce. So frustrating when it's a 24$ hamburger!

I'm sorry - I said the day improves! It did! We went from there up the Floibanen. That is the funicular up the side of Mount Floyen. It was really cool! Actually, more cool was the amazing viewing platform at the top (better than Hong Kong!), and then the playground. It was the nicest playground we've seen in Scandinavia. Next to it, was something called "The Troll Forest", which was really atmospheric - basically trails through the forest and periodically a carved wooden troll, or just a troll head on top of a post. We decided to walk down from there. It was a windy walk down a gravel path, switching back across the face of the mountain. For the first half, we kept seeing signs about the witch, or drawing of witches, on wooden signs. These sparked in us a bit of a fantasy where we talked about the witch, what she looks like (long black hair, pale skin, and a green dress - the bodice made of moss and the skirt made of ivy and ferns.) We talked about where she lives (under the mountain with the trolls), and what she does (protects the mountain from people who don't take care of the earth.) We built up the whole fantasy together as a family, and it was really fun and special. As the trail ends, it changes into streets and staircases continuing through charming neighborhoods of old wooden houses.

I feel like these travel blogs barely touch upon the things we've seen and are mostly complaining about how hard it is to travel with a four year old. I really hope that's not what I remember from the trip. I want to remember the amazing moments, but I'm surprised at how travelling with a four year old is tougher than travelling with a three year old! Surely we will soon come through this time and get to the "golden travel age". Admittedly, he entertains himself easier now, but he's also more demanding, and he'd rather spend time in the room playing with his toys or watching Netflix on the tablet than out in the world, seeing it. When he is taken by something - something simple like a fountain - or as grand as a beautiful scene outside our window - it's charming - and it's more special than it would be for our eyes alone to see it. It's both better and worse than travelling without kids. The simplest things (parks, fountains) are more special, and we're forced to slow down a bit more (which is good), but there is much that we miss (anything at night, interesting food, any museum that has darkness in it.) At the same time, I wouldn't exchange this trip for anything in the world. It's really been one of the best trips. I found this article rather comforting as a parent, even she says the same thing I do - it's incredibly rewarding And frustrating all at the same time.

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