Blogs from Calitri, Campania, Italy, Europe

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Europe » Italy » Campania » Calitri June 5th 2012

Lying in bed. The shuttered door to the terrace is open admitting the warm morning sun and the summoning knell of the church bells. House-martins criss-cross the sky, wheeling and swooping as they carefully bring small gobbets of mud to make their nests under the eaves. Like so many miniature fighter planes they tip their wings and perform a fly past, a flash of a swallow's chestnut breast as it skims the open window. Cockerels crow from the allotments as chickens cackle their achievements. Just another Sunday in Italy. 'Did you put water in the coffee?' An oft repeated phrase denoting the week's holiday. . The pervading aroma of percolating coffee from the 'Verletta' on the hob had been replaced by a distinct smell of burning. The coffee was well and truly roasted, unfortunately not the ... read more
Nonna
Valle Ofanto
Wine and Water

Europe » Italy » Campania » Calitri May 14th 2012

Gaining access to the castle in Calitri had proved impossible for six years for the cousin and his intended. Thwarted by irregular opening hours they prepared us for the possibility that it just might not happen. A chance meeting at the Manhattan restaurant, where we went for pizza one night and incidentally where the UEFA cup match between Real Madrid and Bayern was being beamed for the edification of local football enthusiasts, with Titti Lampariello ensured that we would have our very own Saturday morning guided tour. Titti works at the Tourist Information Centre as a volunteer and said she would be more than delighted to show us round. The door to the ceramics museum at the base of the castle was open, the main gate was not. The castle caretaker was nowhere to be seen. ... read more
Mummoli
Majolica teapot
Listening to the tales

Europe » Italy » Campania » Calitri May 7th 2012

After completing auditions for the remake of the Italian Job we dropped down into a mist-laden valley hiding the ski and summer resort of Lago di Laceno. Between seasons, a ghost resort with nary an animal grazing to break the eerie silence. In Summer it is hard to find a picnic spot, competing with vast family groups bar-be-queing, spit-roasting, pasta boiling and generally cavorting. Snaking down through more heavily wooded forests once favoured by Neapolitan mafia in days gone by, we hit the cobbled streets of Bagnoli Irpino. Even through driving rain its picturesque qualities shone through. It should be, said my cousin, the amount of EU money that has been thrown at it. Narrowing into a lane we turned a corner more suited to pedestrians than motor vehicles. The strange purpose built town of Conza ... read more
Melfi cathedral
Bagni Irpino
Spring wildflowers

Europe » Italy » Campania » Calitri May 4th 2012

It must have been a tail wind from England. We find ourselves waiting in a cloudy Sunday searching for some sustenance after our punishingly early start from Gatwick. Two cappuccinos to restore humour. Airport coffee? They were delicious. Don't suppose we'll find a bad coffee in Italy. Croissants and marmelade are fluffy, moist and satisfying even if eaten at a dirty, plastic-chaired airport cafe. Does it feel like Italy yet? Looking out of the picture windows high on the departure level the cars look the same as in every other country we've visited in the last few months – the hoardings, though, display advertising with wording I struggle to translate calling on adolescent Italian learnt before a memorable holiday to Grado in Northern Italy. The local lads taught me quite a few words, none of which ... read more
Calitri doorway
From the old square
Earthquake damage




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