COPENHAGEN

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Copenhagen, if one knows nothing of it, is both larger and dirtier than one might expect. Or at least it was for me. All I had to go on were the pictures in the 'Rough Guide to Copenhagen' and they did nothing to expostulate this understanding I had of Denmark as a parochial place with parochial ideas. But no. Copenhagen at least has so much more to offer. Amongst the spires and the 19th century low rise terracing substantial modern architecture is rife, not all of it pleasant but imposing enough to help really hit home the fact that this is the capital of Denmark. That's what I want from a city, the feeling that things happen, and in Copenhagen they most definitely do.
Take a stroll around the Indre By, otherwise known as the Latin Quarter, day or night it doesn't matter, there are cafes and bars abound enough to satiate the need for both a relaxing coffee or a refreshing beer. Cafe Nordon is well equipped to deal with the former offering decent food for a fairly reasonable price (given that Copenhagen is very expensive) and enough room to cope with it's populist location right at the heart of city centre. In the evening why not head to Bar Floss or maybe even The Moose if you fancy something a bit more bohemian. You'll never be lost for bar's in the Latin Quarter.
Whilst in the area, if you already haven't done so, one should check out the old harbour of Nyhavn back where people congregate during summer to soak up the rays. In winter it's equally agreeable although you'd probably want to frequent one of the many cafes or restaurant rather than hang your feet of the side of the harbour as they do during the more clement months. The buildings along here are old and colourful and it's more consistent with the image one might have of an older and quainter Denmark but none the worse for it. After all, you're only a stones throw from Kongens Nytorv and it's vast square surrounded by some of the more majestic of Copenhagen's architectural efforts. From there one could end up towards Kastellet which is a sort of medieval earthwork, and take ain a view of the ultra modern Opera House on the way with it's roof placed precariously on the top. Oh, and you can see the Little Mermaid while you're at it.
Don't restrict your self to the city's' epicentre though. One certainly wants to check out Christianshavn just east of Slotsholmen, although don't be misled by the Rough Guide, if you have one, that makes the place out to be some sort of idealist hippy hangout. It's not and when you stumble upon Pusher Street it's got more edge than a Hell's Angles bar where the beer's run dry. "Nej Photo!", you'll be instructed if you dare to even focus a camera lens and what with the medley of scary looking dogs gambling around you I'd be surprised if you'd want to do anything over than keep on moving: Haight Ashbury this is not. That's not to say that Christianshavn is a complete right off, far from it. It's mostly a very peaceful place in fact and it boosts the best bar in probably the whole of Copenhagen. Welcome to the Eiffel, one of the few places in the city where the staff don't speak fluent English. It's a local's local for sure but that shouldn't put you off. The Danes are suckers for a friendly face and treat everyone who looks for it with humbling conviviality and the occupants of the Eiffel are no exception
Also of remark is the area of Vesterbro. You could do worse that head down Istedgade running south-west from the train station. Traversing the city's red light district it's not the most welcoming of places, but don't be put off. This working class habitation still has much to offer in the way of bars and eateries if little else. Bang & Jensen is of particular note offering decent and affordable food in modern and relaxed surroundings.
There's probably hell of a lot more to do in Copenhagen but I'm not sure if the beginning of a week in mid-February is the best time to find out. On Monday half the places I wanted to explore were closed. C'est lavie; I had a good time regardless, better than I dared imagine in fact. Definitely worth a visit.

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Photos

Nyhavn
Nyhavn Waterfront

Copenhagen
Christianshavn