Blogs from Croatia, Europe - page 21

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Europe » Croatia » Dalmatia » Gradac April 21st 2019

Happy Easter. Yes, it is that time of year and we are back on the road again. For those of you we haven't already bored silly with our plans, we are exploring Croatia over the next couple of months. We left Manchester two weeks ago and arrived in Croatia last Tuesday. We stopped off a couple of times on the way down to catch the ferry from Ancona in Italy, the first being on the France / German border at Neuf-Brisach. It is a fortified town designed and built by Vauban at the behest of King Louis XIV in 1699. If you read our blog last year then you should know all about Vauban. I certainly feel that I now have a good grasp of his talents and have admired most of his fortifications. The ramparts ... read more
John eyes up our next motorhome in San Marino
San Marino's skyline
Breakfast on the beach after arriving in Croatia

Europe » Croatia » Istria » Rovinj April 14th 2019

In a buffeting wind we drove along the sea coast to the historical city of Pula. Our guide, Branca, rode in our bus for this first half of the day to give commentary and answer questions. Susan asked a series of good questions that informed us about high taxes: VAT at 25 per cent, income tax at 45 per cent, and property taxes, all of which pay for government services, war reconstruction, generous maternity leave, and good health care insurance. Housing costs are high because of demand and supply. Often university education is pursued in Italy, because it is closer than either Zadar or the capital, Zagreb. In the back seat, Gary and Mici giggled over phone photos, conversing in an odd combination of German (Gary knows some, Mici is studying), English (Mici is good at ... read more
Branca, our guide
Spectacular candy store
Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, 4-5 centuries

Europe » Croatia » Istria » Lovran April 13th 2019

We woke to a sunny day full of promise for a spectacular trip to the top of Mount Ucka. The highway was winding, and the asphalt road up through the parkland was even more winding, with potholes. About half way up the mountain, to our initial delight, the trees were decked in crystallized snow. To our dismay, eventually there was enough slushy ice on the road that the two buses had to stop. Our drivers worried that the tires would not be able to negotiate the downwards return journey if there were more ice higher up. Full of vigour we donned our warm clothes and jaunted along on foot, enjoying the beautiful photo ops … until the ice became too slippery for walking safely, especially for our two sub-tropical companions from California and Hawaii. The men ... read more
Truffle pasta
Painting on found wood
Coastal walk in Lovran

Europe » Croatia » Istria » Lovran April 12th 2019

No complaints about rain again. Today it snowed all morning! Our departure from Starigrad was in the rain, but since we were driving, that was ok. In dramatic swoops we rose through the mountainous hills of the coast into steep rocky landscape. A fast toll road took us through a 12 km tunnel into a higher, lusher plateau dotted with bushes. Further on, in a long valley, cows were grazing. Substantial farm houses and loosely formed villages showed that agriculture sustained this area. Almost imperceptibly the rain passed through sleet into light and persistent snow. The temperature had dropped from 12 Celsius to 3 Celsius. For some time the snow didn’t stick to the ground or the road; until it did tinge the grass and then accumulated on the roadsides, and finally coated the trees. Even ... read more
Judith at Plitvice Falls
Milino Jezero
Majerovo Vrilo on the Gacka River

Europe » Croatia » Dalmatia » Zadar April 11th 2019

Our trip’s stated objective was to participate in a “strenuous” hike in Paklenica National Park. By the end of last night, there were only three people who wanted to risk the first half hour of rocky assent, because of all the rain. By this morning, when there was again light rain, Manka cancelled the hike because it is very slippery in the rain. Breakfast was delightful because the hotel restaurant cooked our eggs to order; the ability of Adriatic restaurants to produce excellent sunny-side-up eggs is astonishing. Otherwise, the selections were the usual cold cuts, cereals and lovely breads. Our revised day was a return to Zadar, this time to visit the url=https://www.zadar.travel/en/city-guide/attractions/26-05-2009/museum-of-ancient-glass-zadar#.Xsc50GhKhPYAncient Glass Museum. (Rain fell during the drive and upon our ar... read more
Glass vessels
Fresh mussels in a delicious sauce, Stipe Restaurant
Greeting to the Sun

Europe » Croatia » Dalmatia » Starigrad April 10th 2019

Rain fell on us all day. Vanya, our city guide, met us in the pouring rain in the historic centre of Sibinek. She started off on her regular patter about the square, when Manka suggested we tour the church first, out of the rain. She agreed verbally but was unable, even momentarily, to bypass important buildings and their history. Sibinek was one of those cross-roads cities - settled by the Romans in their eastward expansion and similarly absorbed into the Austro-Hungarian Empire centuries later. Remains of the old city wall have been curated as a preservation technique. Their ancient stoniness was emphasized by the close-by modern glass City Library. In the same park, ancient and modern were fused in a stylized of statue of url=https://en.wikip... read more
St James  Cathedral
Lamb and pork with roast potatoes and onions
Roman forum 27 BC - 3 BC

Europe » Croatia » Dalmatia » Skradin April 9th 2019

I am sitting in the café at Skradinski Buk, an indescribable torrent of waterfalls. The others have gone for a boat trip, and I am skipping the experience and avoiding feeling ill. Louder than any of the many visitors is the cascading roar of the water. We were almost alone for the first hour of strolling amongst a lace of waterfalls. By the end of the second hour, we rejoiced that we had finished before the big bus tours arrived. Part of the Krka National Park (pronounced as spelled), a vast quantity of water tumbled from the surrounding mountainous hills through a long downhill stretch of rocks. Over long ledges it rolled into the raging Krka River. Down craggy cliffs it crashed into thick foam. Rivulets traced tiny lace patterns among the plants. Gr... read more
Mill buildings
Cikola River valley
Skradin

Europe » Croatia » Dalmatia » Split April 8th 2019

Leaving Mostar was almost sad, because we had enjoyed the compact city as a group and on our own. We headed into the hills, where towns or villages lined the road for a considerable distance. Rain was falling for the whole drive. I noticed none of the un-recovered bombed houses we had seen on our way to Sarajevo from Mostar. The border crossing into Croatia was old hat to us by now. Our driver, Paul today, gathered our passports (his on top) and presented them to an official inside, first the Bosnian booth and then the Croatian booth. We continued on through the mountains. The vegetation of low trees and tall bushes was later described to us as “Mediterranean bush”. Our first stop was at the Blue Lake, where we looked far down into an ancient ... read more
Peristyle central square
 Font, Cathedral of St Domnius 11 century
Historic Trogir

Europe » Croatia » Dalmatia » Dubrovnik April 3rd 2019

Our full day tour of Dubrovnik was fascinating. For two hours, Jakica led us through the old city centre, combining facts with stories and personal memories. Most of the buildings that survived conquest, war and earthquakes are from about the sixth century, the fourteenth century, and the eighteenth century, plus twenty-first century new builds. Many of the historic buildings were damaged, some severely, in the early battles of the war with Serbia and Montenegro 1991-1994. Almost everything has been restored, which makes the buildings look fresh and well-maintained. Jakica pointed out that the whiter limestone blocks are newer, because they come from a different quarry than the traditional blocks, and that the redder clay roof tiles are new, in contrast to the yellower old ones. Two rival theories explain the origins of Dubro... read more
Onofrio's fountain 1440
Franciscan Monastery 17 century
 Walls built into the coastal rock

Europe » Croatia » Dalmatia » Split April 3rd 2019

We awoke about 8, got ready, and went to have some breakfast. Our daughter slept in so we brought her some food when we went back. We admired the views of the sea from our Airbnb one last time. It was neat to see the ferries come in and out of the harbor all day and night. We walked over to the waterfront near the bus station and waited. It was very nice to watch the sea. Soon we were on the bus back to the airport. Along the way, I saw homes being built and thought "I could live here". SPU check in and security was easy. The terminal was pretty packed with not much seating. Our flight was Croatia Airlines 474, an A-319 aircraft. The two hour flight to Paris was smooth and routine. ... read more




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