Final Entry

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Friday morning - today would be my last day to surf. It rained last night so it looks like the death star is back in action. The little bastards are getting smarter and braver and nailing me in the most awkward places. A bite between the knuckle and behind the knee, probably the itchest possible body part they can get at.

The weather is looking pretty good with some overcast and off shore wind. Again we head to Playa Ramonso. The waves were pretty good but the surf was rough. I have surfed 4 days in a row and have developed a board rash from the board and not wearing a rash guard. So paddling was painful and when you take away the ability to paddle you are at the mercy of the wave.

I had one close call today with the Surf Gods. I was surfing for 3 hours straight and was so tired on my way back to the shore but I was caught in some bad rip tide. It took me 30 minutes to swim out of it. Normally it is easy to get out of riptide as you swim parallel to rip but I was so tired I could barely paddle.

I got greedy and saw this big wave and I tried to get behind it and then paddle as hard as I could just before it breaks but because it was low tied the wave was behind me and when it barrelled I was on top of it and again a 5´ drop down wards. It probably wasn´t a good idea catching one last wave after getting out of a rip tide but what was even worst was my foot strap broke off so the board was too far away. I got pulled under 3 times and got lucky the board came my way. It was a very close call because without the board you are a sitting duck especially being that tired.

It was a great day and again I surfed until it was sunset. Tomorrow I head to Managua and then back home.

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