The hire car has clearly had enough of us and on the steep climb out of Porto Germeno it refused to get out of second gear. This, along with the fact that I seemed to have accidentally ticked the "use narrow potholed roads where often bits are missing" button on the sat nav made for an interesting first half hour. The roads were pretty much deserted until suddenly, just a few miles from Athens the traffic built to terrifying proportions again. We managed to return our hire car (why do these things take so long?) Piraeus was as chaotic as last Thursday. We had about 4 hours before our ferry sailed and so killed time in the shelters on the port. These are used by vagrants to sleep, drink, shout and fall over. What with this
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