My birthday was a very full day, in the way that only travel can make it. We began in Jhunjhunum, skipping the western breakfast our hotel offered, and drove to Mandawa. Here,we saw so many crumbling havelis and we asked our driver to stop so that we could take pictures. We did not go into these because he did not know the owners. I suspect that we could have knocked, but I am ever polite. In Fatehpur, we did stop to visit an old haveli in the process of restoration. A wizened old man in a green shawn with a white turban allowed us into the enclosure. The first coutyard has beautiful paintings of elephants. One goes through an elaborately carved wooden door into another courtyard. Traditionally, visitors would have to wait in the outer courtyard, ... read more

It was very difficult to sleep last night with the constant horns outside and all sorts of weird noises in the hotel. The hotel is the downer of the trip so far. We have very little hot water, only a trickle. However, the breakfast was great - chai, masala dosai, and uttapam. Sanjay picked us up in a white ambassador. First, we went to the Laxshmi Narain temple, but we didn’t go inside as it required us to leave our cameras at the door. First day of the trip and I am not that trusting yet. Next, we went to Qtab Minar and explored the entire area. From there, we saw the modern B’Hai “Lotus” temple, and then had lunch at a restaurant called “Chicken Inn”. In America, Indian restaurants are called “India Palace”, “Taste of ... read more

We depart at 6pm and I have been having trouble sleeping for two days. As I wrote in my other journal, India has always caused the dual emotions of fear and fascination, sometimes for the same reason. I have read about and will try to understand the things that bother most first-worlders when they visit, but will that understanding prevent me from having a knee-jerk reaction? A humorous example - I can understand the concept of a Holy Cow and be prepared to see cows, but when that cow rams me in the butt (as happened to a friend of mine), will I be so understanding? You see where I'm going with this. We've all heard about the begging children, the lepers, the touts, the grime, pollution, and dirt. We've also all heard about the palaces, ... read more