Melissa Wafer-Cross

mwafercross

July 7, 2007, I am bound for China with Asia Society on a Hays-Fulbright grant. A small group of English and Social Studies teachers from across the US will spend the month of July exploring the rich diversity of China under the guidance of Dr. John Major and Dr. Lili Cole.



Travel Blog Posts


Last days in China

Published: August 20th 2007Asia » China » Shanghai
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August 6th 2007

Our final days in China were in Shanghai and in the Shanghai area--in a nearby watertown called Tongli. Our visits to the Shanghai Museum and the Shanghai Urban Planning Museum were certainly highlights. The Shanghai Museum is elegant, well-planned, and artistically arranged. I paid for the audio tour and was so glad that I had; it provided highlights and background that were not available on the exhibit labels. The Urban Planning Museum sounds kind of like a ho hum, but it, too, was fascinating. There are exhibits and photographs of the old Shanghai and the new; they have also included their vision for the future, their hopes and dreams. Most of one floor has a huge scale model of Shanghai. One day we met with Mr. Wang Fuguo, the father of a young man who works ... read more



Traveling out from Suzhou

Published: August 20th 2007Asia » China » Shanghai
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August 2nd 2007

Traveling out from Suzhou, we drove to Qiyun Shan near the Yellow Mountains. While Qiyun Shan is one of the Daoist holy mountains, very few tourists ever travel there. The nearby Yellow Mountains attract more attention. In fact, our local guide had never been up on the mountain and had to enlist the help of one of the people who lives on the mountain to explain the sites. We thought since we were traveling to the mountains that the temperatures might cool down, but we were wrong. The first part of the approach to the mountain involved a cable car ride (there are steps up the mountain, but we opted for the cable car!); the views were spectacular. After the cable car, pilgrims pass through gates and bridges to arrive at the Daoist temple. There are ... read more



Arrival in Shanhai and on to Suzhou

Published: August 15th 2007Asia » China » Shanghai
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July 30th 2007

(Due to the server crash at Travel Blog, I am trying to recreate some of the entries that are lost in the ether between China and Texas.) We had a smooth flight from Guiyang to Shanghai and then transfered to the bus for Suzhou, the Venice of China. Suzhou is built around a series of canals and is known for silk production and classic Chinese gardens. Rich merchants often retired to the Suzhou area and built homes and gardens. The area was also known for its highly literate and educated population; so retired civil servants devoted themselves to calligraphy, poetry, and painting--three very important virtues. They often described themselves as fishermen or hermits to emphasize their distance from the world of government and politics after their retirement. While in Suzhou we visited The Master of the ... read more



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July 29th 2007

The Hanging Temple and Monastery in Shanxi Province was both remarkable in its construction and awe-inspiring in its location. It is literally built into the side of a cliff. The monks chose the site and the elevation to protect the temple from floods. Our bus was caught in a traffic jam of coal trucks, so our guide asked if we minded walking down a dry riverbed for a mile or so to come to the parking lot and entrance for the Hanging Monastery and Temple. We were game for the walk, not letting a traffic jam deter us, and hiked to our destination. The views out of the temple encompass a large dam to the right and miles of rocky mountains and dry riverbeds to the left. The hallways and passages in the temple itself are ... read more



Kaili, Heart of the Miao Country

Published: August 5th 2007Asia » China » Guizhou » Kaili
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July 28th 2007

Our first afternoon in Kaili included a trip to the bird and flower market; it was a fascinating regional market with baskets of spices; cages of birds, exotic animals and reptiles; interesting plants; and piles of local fruits and vegetables. Unfortunately, we were caught in a torrential downpour and were not able to enjoy the market scene. The rain complicated the afternoon trip to one of the nearby minority villages, so we went to a regional museum that had minority dress and cultural artifacts on display. The most interesting parts of the museum, however, were the women artisans who were working on traditional arts and crafts. The women were weavers, silversmiths, and batik artists. I quickly became the group "batik freak." Our trips out of Kaili were delayed because of landslides, road washouts, and two meters ... read more



Around Xi'an

Published: August 5th 2007Asia » China » Shaanxi » Xi'an
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July 25th 2007

Our visit to the Muslim quarter was part bazaar and part religious excursion. The market area leading up to the had much of the typical tourist ware and knock-off designs--watches, purses, North Face, Mont Blanc, etc. The grounds of the mosque looked much like other temples and monasteries we had visited except the gateway arches were in Arabic instead of Chinese. We found the Large Wild Goose Pagoda also situated on manicured grounds, but almost everything is new, refurbished, or redone. The monks are delighted with the attention and the newly restored grounds. Although the restoration is done with traditional tools and methods, it seems that much of the old and very old in China is being lost in a rush to modernization. Tear down the old and build something new in its place that ... read more



Pingyao and Xi'an

Published: July 23rd 2007Asia » China » Shaanxi » Xi'an
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July 23rd 2007

We were glad to put Taiyuan behind us; we saw a fatal auto accident, road chaos, and monkeys on a leash. The whole city was so chaotic that we felt frankly unsettled. What we saw there, however, was pretty amazing; sometimes it is hard to sort out all the contradictory images--especially when the past and the present collide without any obvious connections. Before we left for Xi'an on the overnight train, we visited a charming city called Pingyao. It is a Sturbridge/Stockbridge kind of town, a walled city preserved from the Ming and Qing dynasties. It grew to importance as a financial center and offered draft banking. It is quaint and modern at the same time--lots of commercialism. We did visit the Daoist temple and were snookered into some sort of hoodoo fortune telling exercise ... read more



Terracotta Warriors

Published: August 15th 2007Asia » China » Shaanxi » Xi'an
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July 22nd 2007

In the recent blog site crash, it looks like the section on the terracotta warriors disappeared. The first emperor's tomb proved to be everything I had expected it to be--amazing and spectacular. The warriors were created more than two thousand years ago by 700,000 conscript artisans and workers, many of whom were buried alive at the emperor's death to keep them from telling where the tomb was located. What we saw in the museum is only a fraction of the army; many, many more figures remain buried. The Chinese have not decided how to excavate the emperor's tomb because the ground contains very high levels of mercury. The actual tomb site was supposed to look like a small city and was surrounded by a river of mercury. I spent most of my time at the terracotta ... read more



Wutai Shan

Published: July 17th 2007Asia » China
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July 17th 2007

I am pinch hitting for Melissa today as she is in a very remote area near Mongolia. The bus rides in this area are long and difficult because of the extraordinary coal truck traffic on the roads. Delays caused by disabled trucks blocking the roads are common. During one such delay the group hiked the last mile to their destination. During the walk they had a chance encounter with a genuine hermit that lives in a cave near the monastery. He invited the group to tour the cave where several generations of his family have lived. Melissa noted the stark contrast of this sort of poverty with the modern, high tech cities of China that she had been in for the last several days. David C The itinerary guide for her trip has this outline ... read more



Datong

Published: July 16th 2007Asia » China
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July 16th 2007

We visited the famous UNESCO site at the Yugang Grottoes and were lucky to have a gorgeous morning. The grottoes were carved out and the statues sculpted about 435AD. It was really an amazing sight, and I have some terrific photos--they will have to wait on a better Internet connection,tho. I thought you might enjoy some food notes. We have had the most interesting mushrooms--black ruffly ones, clear ones that look like sea anemones, long skinny ones that look like twigs, and your standard morrels--all quite tasty. I am not hallucinating...yet. The food here has been much better than in Beijing--fresher and different. Last night we ate lotus seeds and the best snow peas that were very sweet. Today at lunch we had this sweet potato dish that had some kind of sugar syrup on ... read more






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