In the space of barely three days, we descend from the peak of Cotopaxi to Ecuador's Pacific coast - a vertical drop of nearly six kilometres. It's a long journey from Baños, the highland town located at the foot of Tungurahua and where we spend a couple of days recovering from our Cotopaxi climb, to the coastal town of Puerto López. We are again lucky with bus connections, meaning we don't have to spend any time in Guayaquil, Ecuador's largest city but not - by any account we've heard or read - its nicest. We instead make it to Montañita, a brash and unashamedly touristy surfer town, from Baños in a single, very long, day. After the highlands' quaint, quiet villages, Montañita is a jarring shock. With the hordes of surfer-dude types, however, come fancy restaurants
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