Page 15 of Weir travels Travel Blog Posts


Africa » Namibia September 30th 2006

Sitting here at a keyboard on a muggy spring night in Outjo, unable to sleep thanks to the efforts of a particularly noisy mozzie in my room and a probable OD of caffeine earlier in the day, I feel as if I am back at school with an essay crisis (except for the fact that I wrote essays by hand in those days). Admittedly, this is an essay crisis of my own making: I want to get the blog for the most recent part of my trip written up before I go bush on Sunday and forget all about the last month’s experiences. I think that it is safe to say that, when I was describing my trip to friends in advance, this second conservation project in which I was going to get involved as an ... read more
view on the way to work in the morning
Tylee's puppies at 5 weeks
one of many sunsets from the Tower

Africa » Namibia September 3rd 2006

As you might have noticed, I have been very happy to put up with, shall we say, a variety of accommodation arrangements in the last few months. (I described one type of overnight arrangement as "basic camping", promting the question from one friend, "what's more basic than camping?".) However, I could not really expect Colin to enjoy other than a reasonable amount of luxury when he flew out to join me in Namibia for a snatched nine-day vacation at the end of August. And, it must be said, I didn’t resent the five-star treatment too much - though I found it interesting how much less comfortable I felt in the company of the majority of my fellow four/five-star guests than I had with my co-travellers and co-volunteers in Namibia to date. The trip started and ended ... read more
Etosha Pan from the air
traffic jam at Okaukeujo waterhole
making "baby monitors"

Africa » Angola » North » Luanda August 23rd 2006

Eight things that I didn’t know about the capital of Angola a week ago: (1) It is one of the most expensive cities in the world; I assume, the most expensive in Africa. US$10 for an iceberg lettuce, for example. And I’m assured that eating out in London seems modestly priced by comparison. (2) The US dollar is, effectively, a second currency, thanks, in no small part, to the booming oil industry here. (3) Along the coast, the most oft-sighted bird is the common egret; a curiously spectacular bird to be apparent in such numbers. Not a seagull in sight. (4) There is, effectively, no tourist industry; not even a scruffy photocopied handout at the Luanda Fort where nothing is labelled, and street-sellers simply sell goods targeted at the general population rather than hassling the (non-existent) ... read more
view towards central Luanda from where I was staying
plaque commemorating David Livingstone on the British ambassador's residence
view of Luanda Fort from PwC's offices

Africa » Namibia August 21st 2006

Sitting here in Luanda watching the fiasco that is the fourth day of the England -v- Pakistan test match (how I came to be here will be revealed in a later blog), I’m struggling to work out how to write up what have undoubtedly been a couple of the most interesting weeks of this year. Where to start? The beginning? Well, I suppose this’d be a reasonable - if slightly old-fashioned - option… When I took a year out in 1993-94, I looked into doing voluntary work abroad, but ran into a brick wall with VSO, the only option I believed was open to me, on the basis that they wanted at least a couple of years’ commitment, and someone with more useful skills than an ability to list the top ten cases on recoverable financial ... read more
base camp at Outjo
that´s what we´re looking for!
en route to the Hoarusib

Africa » Namibia July 29th 2006

Well, OK, this is just an excuse to send you photos of other stuff, including birds and, if not bees, then at least some curious insects, and some flowers and other things that I thought might be of interest. So, you can heave a great sigh of relief: there will be little text in this blog, and lots of piccies to look at. No excuse not to get back to work quickly after scanning this entry! Sorry, did I mention the "w" word???! Anyway, by the time you get this, I'll be off on my travels again. Fully recuperated from the effects of a lot of VERY early mornings, lack of sleep and the full-on schedule of the Namibian Experience having had a week of veg-ing in the chill of Cape Town (yes, I am managing ... read more
crimson-breasted shrike
female Southern korhaan
Cape sparrows

Africa » Namibia July 29th 2006

After the non-stop thrills of the Northern Adventure with the camping and early-morning starts, it was nice to get a night’s sleep in a real bed without a tent companion - however well Yvonne and I had got on as tent buddies. The evocatively-named Rivendell Guesthouse in Windhoek (though I was disappointed that there was not an elf in sight, let alone an Orlando Bloom look-alike) also provided space and time to re-pack and re-organise my somewhat tired-looking backpack. So, by the time Sunday dawned, I was raring to go on the Southern Swing (I’m still a bit dubious about the name, but there you go). This time, Yvonne, Veerle, Lisa and I found ourselves with only three additional companions: a Connecticut biology and chemistry teacher, a retired NHS Englishwoman and a Belgian “teacher of teachers”, ... read more
tame cheetah at Quiver Tree Forest camp
a busy meerkat family
Baster children at Hoachanas

Africa » Namibia July 28th 2006

The second half of the Northern Adventure was to get more cultural as we left nature for anthropology and a visit to a Himba village near Kamanjab in Damaraland. This village has been developed by Jaco Burger, a South African known as the “white Himba”, who has adopted the ways of the Himba and was appointed head man of this particular group of Himba. The Himba people continue to lead a traditional way of life, with cattle at the centre of their lives, and move around between villages as the seasons and the cattle’s grazing requirements change. It was a privilege to be able to visit them, and have some of their customs explained to us; yet, at the same time, we felt as if we were intruding, as if the Himba people themselves were being ... read more
close-up of a petrified tree trunk
welwitschia at the Petrified Forest
rock carvings at Twyfelfontein

Africa » Namibia July 28th 2006

Who could fail to be intrigued by the romance and mystery in place-names such as Kaokoveld, Damaraland, Sossusvlei and Swakopmund, Windhoek, Otjiwarongo, Etosha and Marienfluss? By a country that boasts its own ghost town, and whose ports are all wedged uncomfortably between the desert and the South Atlantic? A country much of whose coastline is known as the Skeleton Coast after the multiple shipwrecks it has seen, and where diamonds could once be collected as easily as shells on a beach? Namibia has been high on my travel-target list ever since I saw photographs of some of its highlights when Colin and I were invited to go on an overland trip there out of Johannesburg. As it happened, we’d had to decline because the time commitment was just too great for two stressed City lawyers to ... read more
the trusty steed
the Northern Adventure route
technical hitch at Okahandja

Africa » South Africa » Gauteng » Johannesburg July 6th 2006

Soweto. The name conjures up a myriad of images and thoughts: the long dusty road along which the schoolchildren marched in 1976 to protest against the use of Afrikaans as the medium for their education; the "black hole" of Johannesburg (forgive the expression) to which the Blacks were forcibly removed from as early as 1904 and where Whites feared (and perhaps some still fear) to venture; endless "matchbox" houses and squatter camps; the birthplace of the New South Africa; the home of Nelson Mandela and Bishop Tutu, shebeens and high crime rates... I could go on and each of us will have their own images. I had wondered about the ethics (if that’s not too strong a word) of going on a tour of Soweto. It seemed voyeuristic, gazing into the lives of ordinary people much ... read more
the national flower of Soweto... the plastic bag
washing day at a former men's hostel
children inside one of the hostels


A little known fact about my family is that the three brothers, of which my father was the oldest surviving, went in very different directions. OK, so you could say that being a solicitor in Edinburgh (my father) is not a million miles away from being an academic lawyer at Cambridge (my younger uncle), but - to my mind - the most interesting brother and his family ended up on the Isle of Lewis where two of my three cousins still remain. (For the geographically-challenged, the Isle of Lewis is the northern-most island of the Outer Hebrides, a little further from Edinburgh than Edinburgh is from London). In the capital, Stornoway, one of my cousins, Moray, runs a pub/nightclub/pool bar, but is better known in the family for having appeared on the front page of various ... read more
Lews Castle
Callanish Stones
view from the Callanish Stones




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