I decided in early 2006 that I'd had enough of the London rat-race and the career thing - at least, for the time being - and that I'd like to take some time out: "me time", as it were; time to do at least some of the things that I'd been thinking about doing over the last few years but hadn't been able to fit in around work and client demands.
So here I am: backpack to the ready (to be honest, it had never really been put away after my '93-'94 round-the-world trip), and a gazillion ideas about how to fill the next xx months..... (And, no, I've no idea when I'll go back to the "real" world, nor what I'd do if/when I get back there. Time enough to figure that one out, I reckon.)
Being an about-to-be-former technology lawyer, I thought I'd better join the 21st century and save you all the trouble of deciphering my handwriting (not to mention saving myself the hassle of writing postcards and negotiating the purchase of stamps). So, if you're interested in what I get up to (edited highlights only, you'll be relieved to hear), do read on....
[Frequency of updates unpredictable, but I'll try and capture the highlights from time to time.]
‘“The time has come,” the Walrus said’… though, in my case, it’s not to talk of the deliciously lyrical “shoes and ships and sealing wax”, but of the harder-to-scan and much more mundane “laws and contracts and procurement”. Next Tuesday will see me scrubbing up, dusting off the high heels and the business suits, looking for the ON switch in my legal brain, and returning to the world of nine-to-five. At least for a little while. My bank account is salivating at the prospect. I’m not. Nor am I relishing a return to a still-wintery London after a wonderful hot summer Down Under. But, after seven years, more on the road than not, I’m not asking for sympathy. And the last few months in Australia have been a fantastic culmination to my years away from the
... read moreThe statistics for the Amazon Basin are mind-blowing, even in what was, briefly, our infinitesimal part of it. Only 1.67% of Amazonia falls within Ecuador’s borders, yet it comprises just over half of Ecuador’s landmass. One hectare may contain more species of tree than the entirety of North America. The whole area contains approximately 5% of the world’s plants. More than 600 of mainland Ecuador’s over 1,600 identified species of bird have been seen here, about half of all species of bird found in the entire Amazon basin. There are more than 4,000 species of orchid. Of the 410 species of mammal, 165 are bats and 15 are monkeys. With over 450 species of amphibians, Ecuador is third in the world in terms of diversity of amphibians, and is seventh in diversity of reptiles with approximately
... read morePeru was definitely not a case of love at first sight. Bolivia had stolen our hearts, and it would take a lot for the new country to compete for our affections. Puno was dusty and, with the exception of the obligatory cathedral and Plaza de Armas, unremarkable, even if it was on the shore of the magical Lake Titicaca. Even that wasn’t enough to redeem it. Our boat trip out to the Uros (or Floating) Islands was nice enough (oh how to damn with faint praise!), but nauseatingly touristy and without the historical fascination of the Isla del Sol, the birthplace of the Inca civilisation, which we’d explored from Bolivia’s Copacobana the previous day. The drive to Cusco took us through Juliaca, aka another Puno but on a much larger scale and without any hint of
... read morePeru has more ancient civilisations than really seems decent for any country. It makes Western Europe look like the plump kid at the school races, barely off the starting blocks. The Incas were the last and the shortest-lived, yet they remain the best known. What about the Nazca, leaving incredible designs in the desert that defeat modern attempts at analysis and interpretation? And the Moche, with tombs only recently discovered but that rival Tutankhamen’s in terms of the information they convey about the people of the time? And the Chimú, with their vast adobe city and multiple palaces at Chan Chan? Yet even these headlines barely scratch the archaeological surface of this Egypt of the Americas; they only cover those civilisations whose sites I managed to explore. I saw nothing of others that also left their
... read moreA week ago, I hadn’t heard of Vallunaraju. I’d barely heard of Huaraz, to be honest, having not really focussed on the itinerary beyond the end of the then-current leg of our Dragoman expedition in Lima. The friends leaving us there were of more concern than what might lie in wait for us once we escaped the grey drabness of Peru’s capital. Now I’ve gazed on her peaks and dared to aspire to conquer her. I’ve trudged through her snowfields and peered down her icicle-ringed crevasses. I’ve heard the wind whistle across her base camp and flap our lightweight tent so viciously that we half-feared we’d be suffocated in the night. We didn’t arrive in Huaraz with the intention of doing much more than maybe a day’s horse-riding. Lima had been far from tranquil, and we
... read moreI love vast open spaces. With no people. Preferably with some wildlife, though that’s negotiable. When Jo and I first looked into overland trips in South America in the chill grey of late December, Dragoman’s JQB120312 expedition jumped off the screen at me because of the big emptinesses it offered. Patagonia was one; the Bolivian Altiplano another. Yes, sorry Mum, you know I’m a culture-cretin at times, but these beat Machu Picchu hands-down on my wish-list. I reckoned I could always visit an Inca ruin or two under my own steam, but how often would I get the chance to drive across this extraordinary landscape? As I had found with the Gobi Desert and the Tibetan Plateau, the Altiplano is something which can really only best be tackled by overlanding. (It’s paradoxical, but the thing I
... read moreWe didn’t get into Bolivia the first time we tried. Or, rather, on the day that we were supposed to try. Snow, in unseasonal quantities, had led to the closure of the Bolivian border and threatened the closure of the Paso de Jama back into Argentina, so we weren’t going anywhere. Quirky San Pedro de Atacama in north-eastern Chile would have to put up with us hanging around for another day. There are worse places to be stranded. Two days’ earlier, we’d made our third Andean crossing in five weeks, each one very different and, if possible, each more spectacular than the last. The road from Bariloche in Argentina’s Lake District to Pucón in Chile had led us up to and around the side of the lone triangularity of snow-capped Volcán Lanín, before tumbling down the
... read moreWhen staying on the fringes of Los Glaciares National Park and contemplating a 4-day trek the next week, you can do one of two things: rest up, or warm up. Jo did the former; I did the latter. On my own. For a blissful and fantastically scenic, and gratifyingly energetic, eight hours. Welcome to El Chalten, gateway to the northern side of this dramatic national park in Argentine Patagonia. We had been driving across eastern Patagonia for several days, and, before that, the Pampas. We had just about had our fill of endless flatness, whether cultivated and lush, or increasingly barren and wind-blasted, so we were childishly excited to see the first hints of Andean peaks. The approach to El Chalten is very dramatic, the rocky pinnacles of the Fitz Roy Range fairytale-like in their snowy
... read moreWhen I was thirteen, my parents took me to Tuscany. In between the noisy chaos of Florence and the gravity-challenging architecture of Pisa, we went to a little village in the Apennines on the strength of my mother’s curiosity in Milton’s choice of simile, “Thick as autumnal leaves that strew the brooks of Vallombrosa”. If he had written “as glorious as autumnal leaves in Patagonia”, would we have gone there instead, I found myself wondering last week. For surely there is no more wonderful palate of natural colours above sea level than this, the gold, bronze, flame-orange, scarlet, pink and red of the lenga and the ñire, set against the bare rock, snow and glacial blues of Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park, a reward only for those prepared to invest a couple of days walking
... read moreThe Paris of the South. A city whose name, literally translated, means ‘good atmosphere’. Envy writ large on the faces of friends who have been, or who yearn to go. Buenos Aires had a lot to do to live up to its press... …but it did. By the time we dragged ourselves away on a sunny Thursday morning, finally boarding the Truck to head south, I was starting to think of it as another one of my homes around the planet. We’d twice come and gone and come back again. We’d stayed in Microcentro and Palermo, and explored San Telmo, Recoleta, Congreso and La Boca. We’d taken the ‘Subte’ and the local buses, chatted to taxi drivers and shop-owners and waiters and tangueros, dined on steak and pizza and pasta and icecream, and supped our first
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