There’s something rather nice about lying in bed all wrapped up warm listening to the rain hammering on tent canvas, or in our case van roof, all night. That’s what we had last night. The only main problem is no loo in this van but I made Ian park right outside the loo block so a mad dash over isn’t too bad. It’s not so nice to hear the rain hammering when you are about to get up. Loo dash is essential so it has to be done. We had hoped to do a nice walk this morning then go to the swimming pool. But the weather is not nice. Black clouds overhead. We have a slow start and debate an alternative. We have a slight break in the cloud and decide we will go whale ... read more

Today we have to get up early. As usual it’s the one day I am not already awake. We need to be in the mountains for our ice cave tour at 9.30am. Google says one hour, the tour company say two…so we allow two and a half, thinking it will probably take one and a half plus an hour for our breakfast in the van. It’s dry when we leave camp at 7am but we can see dark clouds over the mountains. We are suitably clad (at least we hope we are) in thermals which include two wicking t shirts, full thermals, cords, thin fleece, thick fleece and full waterproofs. Plus woolley hats and gloves! We arrive at Husafell Outdoor Adventure Centre at 8.30am. Time for a brew and breakfast. Just after 9am and others start ... read more

Today we set off to explore the Snaefells Peninsular, starting with the first point of interest which is clearly visible from our campsite, the Kirkufell Mountain. The waterfall is also supposed to be of interest though it looks a bit pathetic to us as we pass by. We do not stop as Ian has spotted the evil pay cameras - at least they are not on the public highway today! We arrive in Olafsvik, the only other town with a supermarket. We need some bread. I’m not going to moan about UK food prices when I return home…£4.40 for a very small loaf of sliced bread…ouch! And now for something a little different…Helllisandur, a town that claims to have an astonishing art walk comprising over thirty painted murals from worldwide artists. It looks like the graffiti ... read more

Today we have mizzle but it’s not cold. This has been the first night that I have not needed a double thermal top layer and ny Nepalese knitted slippers on in bed! In fact, last night we both felt really warm! We return the way we came as there’s no other way to go. Back towards Isafjordur where we top up the diesel and make use of the free car cleaning station. Our van, which was once white, is decidedly brown from mud splats. As we are the only ones there we park in the middle of two washing stations and take one side each. Job done in half the time! It’s only a quick once over but at least we can open the doors now without getting filthy. From here we head south, to another ... read more

It’s 7am and damp and grey. I decide to go across to the cosy kitchen and cook a full English whilst it’s relatively deserted. We have a long drive ahead so may be late to camp tonight. We are planning a quick evening meal of potato curry and rice as a consequence. We set off in the mizzle. Our plan is to take a detour around the headland to a place called Hvitserker - it’s supposed to be a pretty drive with an unusual rock formation in the sea…followed by more scenic driving and basking seals. We have reached the detour road. Oh dear, it’s another of those snow chain roads. And the snow chains have definitely been in use - resulting in a completely potholed road. Ian says we’ll do it anyway. The road gets ... read more