Arrived Jaipur early morning after a torcherous, cold night bus from Jodhpur. It was the typical scenario of arriving at the bus station, finding the correct bus, loading up our bags, arguing with the kid demanding 20 rupees for opening the luggage door so we could load our bags, me finding his boss and reporting him, his boss laughing, me seething (but not paying any rupees), me finding the nearest chai chai man, downing a tea, still standing outside hoping that damn kid doesn't pee on our bags, finally boarding the filthy bus and praying to Shiva for the best. One of the most intense things about travelling as a woman in India is the sheer overabundance of men and lack of women everywhere. It's as if there is one woman for every 20 men
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