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Published: March 5th 2007
Misty McLeodganj
We arrived to a cold and rainy McLeodganj, in the Himalayas. So you've probably all noticed I had no pictures on the last blog -- that's because I copied them all to a CD in Pushkar, deleted them and then (using my bag as a pillow on the night train) heard a distinct Krrrack and, yup, cracked the CD. I'm trying to recover what I can, at the very least to show you all my pretty pink hair. In the meantime, here's an update post-Jaipur.
We carried on the backpacker trail north to Pushkar (6-10 March), yet another sacred city in India, renowned for its holy lake, where devotees flock for blessings. In Hindu mythology, it is said that gods released a swan with lotus in its beak and let it fall on earth where Brahma (the god of creation) would perform a divine sacrifice. The place where lotus fell was called Pushkar. Pushkar has one of the only Brahman temples in Rajasthan and has several other temples dotted around the lake and in the town.
Translation: Pushkar is a sea of dreadlocked Israelies and trustafarians smoking pot and drinking bangh (marijuana) lassis, each one seeking to win the prize for most tattoos/hippie jewellery/body piercings. As a result, this
Monks and umbrellas
Everyone trudged thru the town to the Dalai Lama's complex to hear the teachings. peaceful town is also filled with super pushy merchants as well as priests offering to do pujas (offerings to the gods) on your behalf and then hysterically demanding a load of rupees or else you'll get bad karma.
On the other hand, it's a great place for shopping!! Imagine the student shopping street in any US university town (think crystal shops, batik stores, head shops, beaded jewellery), drop all the prices by 75% and watch the neo-hippies go nuts. Myself included -- I'll be honest. As I'm writing this I am wearing a scarf in my hair (to keep the sun from turning my hair orange), three silver rings (they're really cool and one is my train ring to pretend I'm married), silver bangles, tank top and long flowing hippie striped skirt. This look also comes complete with an orange hemp shoulder bag and flip flops. And two tattoos. And I might have tried a bangh lassi. Hey, when in Rome...
We had a great time, but after 3 days (and not much spiritual nirvana) it was time to move on, hopefully off the hippie trail, and up to Dharmsala and McLeod Ganj, home of the Dalai Lama
Dalai Lama complex
The first day was Uprising Day, when crowds marched to Dharamsala to support the Free Tibet movement. This is the entrance to the complex but no-one was there! and the Tibetan government-in-exile. After an Olympian obstacle-course route which lasted 29 hours, consisting of a bus to Meera Jctn, night train to Pathankot (right next to Pakistan, yah!), another bus to Dharmsala and taxi, we arrived in McLeod Ganj. His Holiness the Dalai Lama was giving teachings for a week and a half and people came from all over the world to cram into the ashram, buy a translating radio and learn. We tried to go a few times, but there were difficulties getting passes in and also there was an unseasonably cold rain storm that soaked the village and all its inhabitants for the first four days. The main issue with this is that there is no heat in McLeod Ganj. Not in the hotels (unless you luckily find one with a space heater you can rent -- I didn't), not in the restaurants and definitely not in the ashram. Yeah, I know, I know, I made it all that way and didn't see the D.L. Will have to wait til next time.
Despite the soggy cold, McLeod Ganj is a charming mountain town 1,000 meters above sea level where thousands of Tibetans live in exile from
Himalayas
Still raining, but clearing up a bit the Chinese occupation in Tibet. It's a smattering of Tibetan arts and crafts shops, cafes, restaurants, reike healing centres, astrology institutes, yoga studios and monks. After a few days, the weather cleared up (just in time for Kris' birthday) and the views were breathtaking. For the first time in weeks, I was breathing really clean air, walking in the woods and experiencing weather under 70 degrees Farenheit.
We ended up spending a week in McLeod Ganj (11-18 March) and then headed south in a very bumpy night bus to Delhi, where we are now. Been here a week and heading on to Agra to see the Taj Mahal tomorrow. Still have a bit of a mountain cold, but the warm Delhi weather and thick smoggy air are bringing me back to normal.
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Punit
non-member comment
Great....!
Really great thought... best of luck for you journey. We will be looking forward to get more about places you visit. We are bikers from delhi... and love to travel high. You can visit my blog in http://www.travelblog.org/Bloggers/Puns/